If you read the article on page 78 by Pro Twister Mods as suggested, you will see it tells you exactly were to set the needles for break in, and everything else you need to do. From memeory the HSN is flush and the LSN is in 1.5 turns from flush, but do read the article as it is very specific about the break in procedure, how many tanks to run etc, etc.

Yea I would run it in a 6minute or 2hr race. They last a long time as long as the motor is running right and no debris is fouling the plug or something strange like that. I run Sidewinder 30%. I usually only checked temp as a precaution to make sure it's not crazy hot, I don't really keep too close track of that or record it or anything after the motor is totally broken in. During breakin I keep close watch since the friction can really run up temps fast without you realizing it. I know that it ran clean, very fast, smoked, and had no lean bog. Like I said, if the motor is clean, those plugs seem to go a really long time. If you're worried, you can start with a new one before a big main like that, but I usually have a bunch of race weekends on one plug. I always have a new one in the box in case I trash the tune or it runs out lean upside down and fries the plug.

T

Double post

Does this mean the 08 version 3port race engines come in black and silver cases?

Gen 5 08 3 Port R Spec looks like this

:( it just had to rain all freggin day so i couldnt break her in. man its eatin me alive to hear this this thing run. it's gettin broke in tomarrow one way or another.:nod:

i just ran a 4 day state title event with only 1litre threw it and it went like a dream i wont buy another motor for a long time im finally confident in my motor package :D

Just did break in on my 3p rspec..did the drake method..well kind..I just never brought mine to idle..use the heat gun to heat cycle it..did 10 150cc tanks.
This thing has CRAZY :eek: pinsh...

Well ill be doing 10 more tanks of driven today..quick 1/4 then 1/2 ,3/4,full throttle burst.

I also am using the p3 .

Engine looks to be not to bad for the price of $165 shipd :nod:

3p r spec
 

have a 3p r-spec go engine,pipe is a go tech 2047 glow plug used was p3 and p6 now heres the thing cant lean the needles and having a hard time clearing the doubles if i lean the needles it bogs down or chops down once i pull the throtle trigger.ived tried experimenting w/the plugs and find p3 or p6 to work as long as i set the needle on the rich side if as in needle high end side flushed from the rim and low end just a bit flushed from the rim now heres one more thing i tried to run it abt 5tanks then the bogging nightmare starts the engine has a silver body and the carb is not the full black ver. do any of you guys share the same fate? is there a carb issue ...well hope any body can share something:nod:

Have you tried different pipes? I use a .086 on mine. Didnt ever like the performance of the 2047 pipe.

not tried any pipes yet cause i guess any pipes will make it run ... i dont mean that pipe is the issue ok but i guess theres something wrong with the carb. honestly we import these eng. from taiwan to the phil. and unfortunatly we have same prob. with the 7 ports w/gold head u cant last durring the mains. the eng in fairness are strong but again it looses its potential once run for quite some time to give you an idea the weather here is tropic. and we only use 25% fuel the r spec runs better than the 7p and both has diff tunning characteristics and its tiresome to tune them here....... in the philipines the not only call this eng. cheap but also a lousy eng. again we import the eng. and as to our oppinion we want to make this eng. work well here.. as to we still want to sell them here ..any heads up guys?

Myself this is my first go motor (3p rspec)..but so far im very impressed by it..I know I only have just broken it in...but still ..I had a jammin .21jpx before this 1 ...and it seems to me anyway...to run so must better...just my opnion..which if u ask my wife ..doesnt mean crap.:cry:

as far as what u are having problem with..
I havent run into this as of yet,but i have the new black case 1.
I would take her apart carb and all and give a good cleaning..needles an such.install new orings if possible.
and then seal her back up with red silicone.
I wonder if the old style carbs are having the same problem the jammin 1s were...that was a freakn nightmare:flaming:

I have my setting just like yours...with the hsn in 1/2 from flush and lsn flush.

I like to use a pipe intended for topend during breakin, and up to a gallon on new engines, this will almost always give you very rich settings on the needles and keep from bogging if people tend to go a little far during this process, i have seen the GO engines have a lean bog if they where set for a race tune to earley, they need at least 1/2 to 3/4 gallons on them before going from concervitive to full race tune.

When you are going to start leaning the needles, be sure the HSN is flush, and stsrt going in on the LSN first, the GO engine has the HS set very close to what it should be at race tune, so i like to turn the LS in and fine tune with the HS, after full breakin the HS may go in 1 to 3 hours max, but the LSN may be in 2 to 5, it all depends on plug,pipe and air. If your breaking in a new engine with a bottom to mid pipe, a bog may show up faster when leaning because the fuel is not scaveging back to the engine like it does with a topend pipe, this is also why bottom end pipes get less runtime, it needs a fat needle setting to keep fresh fuel flowing, since it doesn't scavenge like a top end pipe.

Just give the engine some time to seat, and if you can get a hold of the new GO 0801, this pipe offers better bottom and top than the 2047, and has just as much top but more bottom than the 086, you will like this pipe alot, and the runtime is very nice with this set up. Good luck

thought I'd mention this, my dad 08 3Port R-Spec had the same problem as the member on here a page before, he had lean bogging issues, the engine ran fine for 2-3 mins and then it started bogging out of no where, he changed his clutch setup, he tried every possible tune and still had that problem, until I remember reading about this and told him to change his HS Needle, since I'm using an O.S. carb I gave him my Go needle from my 07 5 Port carb and it ran beautifully, so if some guys are experiencing bogging issues, I strongly suggest trying either other carb or get another needle, I believe a novarossi fits but not sure what model.

Mhhh once in a while i get lean bog, but ultimately no more ... its easy just give a minute or two on the start box for the engine to warm up and tune it WARM, after that, you are more or less set ... usually if im in a hurry and want to tune for max power just on a semi-cold engine, i end having lean bogs after 2 laps ...

So, try to warm up the engine couple minutes and you will not suffer at all ...

cya,