I just noticed the bottom fins looks thicker than the old versions, the weight diff is nothing really, and the temp distribution may show some, but for the guys getting the new 3 port race motors, keep a close eye on your needle settings and whatch your smoke, the 3 port runs very cool, and the temp will deceive you, just listen to it and watch the smoke

How are you guys liking the 3port (race) verses the 5port, in Buggy and Truggy? What are the revs like? What sort of run times you getting?

All sounds good.
I'm hoping to have my Go soon. Thinking of going with a 7 port for now........ only cause A Main are out of 5 port Engines

Shouldn't be long before I hit the dirt though............then the S H I T will hit the fan .......lol

Can't wait

Hey Satoch,

I''l call you soon....and thanks. Joliet is about the closest to me.....I think Either way, it's the best facility around here I think.

British Menace

Just got my 21 5 port and im breaking it in so i have'nt got to play with it yet Thankz Russell

Got to run 3/4 gallon on the 3 port race tonight in practice. Running it in my RC8 with 1.0 springs and 17t bell, 2050 pipe and 97T plug. This thing is nice. I ran 10 straight tanks with no issues, no flames no nothing. Then I had some issue, but there are bubbles in my fuel line. I have now put in a new tank and new lines. Practice is closed until 7 a.m. tomorrow, so I will see again tomorrow. So far I am liking this motor. Very smooth and enough power to do a quad triple where most are doing triple, double, double. It needs to break in a little more to loose some metal pinch at the top to open up the top end a little, but the bottom and mid are great and very smooth and controllable.

Here's my HoBao Hyper 8.5 with the Go 5 Port, the engine has 20 tanks through and I still can't turn the flywheel with my fingers, even when it's hot

Got the GO .25 6 port today and Dynamite 086 pipe.What standard plug should I be running with the .25? Is Byron 30% good for breakin?

Just a couple questions

I just recieved my go 3 port race and it looks great but a couple questions to people that know this motor

1. is a odonnell 97t plug ok for the motor or should i get another brand of plug online?
2. is the shim really needed when i run 30% or is the motor ready to go off the bat.
3.i read where the bottom of the head fins is a thinker then the top if i was to run another fin to not let people know what i have will it affect the temps bad on this motor?

Got my engine last week Brian, big thanks! I can't turn that thing over with my hands yet! And there's no glow plug. Anyway thanks again!

-Gary

hiredgunbl2.....yes the 97T is a great plug to use. I just ran a gallon on a new 3 port race with break in on 1 plug. Put a new plug in just to be safe before the mains yesterday. I put the extra shim in for break in and will now take it out. Like I said, it has been about 1 gallon on my motor, so mine should be fine by taking out the extra shim I put in. I can't answer about the cooling head. I run the stock one and love it. Not many red motor heads out there. I expect to see more of them out there soon though!

Well, ran my new 3 port race this weekend. I had 4 tanks on a break in stand done before I went to the track on Friday night. I put on 16 tanks on Friday night, 12 of them consecutively without stopping! The motor never died on me until I ran into a fuel supply issue. I replaced my tank and fuel lines and problem solved. I ended up putting a gallon on the motor between Friday night and Saturday.

I think the motor feels great. It is very linear in power, with no abrupt spikes or dips in the powerband. As the motor gets time on it, the top end is opening up more and more. I would like a hair more bottom, but I have to work on the tuning a little bit. It ran great, would idle for 5 minutes (literally, it did) and never flames out. I just think I could richen the bottom just a hair. I just wanted a hair more snap and I think the bottom was just a little lean, maybe 1 or 2 hours. But, the temps were 240 after running 35 minutes (back to back mains, 15 min and 20 min), so I will fine tune the low end later. I also need to take out the extra shim I put in, which should give the motor a little more snap. The motor still has so much metal pinch that unless I preheat the motor, my Mugen box will not turn it over. I imagine as that pinch dissapears some, the run time and top end will get even better.

I was racing on a decent size track, with the fastest laps in the 44-45 second range (drivers with chassis sponsors). I was able to pit at 8 minutes without a worry. Here is the set up ran in my RC8.

3 port Race
OD 97T
Byron Gen 2 30% with 9% oil
OS 2050 pipe
AE clutch with 1.0 springs and 17T bell (could go to 16T bell for more snap)
My settings ended up being about 1/4 turn from flush in on the low end and about 1/2 turn in from flush on top.

Will try either the GO 2047 pipe later to see how it is.

Hiredgun 97t plug should work fine as wright suggested. The shim is only to be used for break, so the engines internals aren't put thru as much stress during the break in process and to also make it easier on you. 30% nitro will be fine for break in. As faras the coolinmg head goes temps will vary from cooling head to cooling head so if you change it you will see a change in temps, But as Mugenb46 said its best to tune for smoke first and only check temps to make sure your not running over 260f.

Hey Guys just some Up Grade and tips tricks info for your go engine , firstly some basic Dyno results.

The R Spec on its 5th tank with 7 mm restrictor is putting out 1.8 hp at the wheels , Modified was putting out 2.2 HP at the wheels ! These things do not produce max power till they get to the 5 litre mark so we are anticipating close to 2.7 Stock and up to 3 HP Modified at the wheels ! thats about >5 less than the flywheel rating so thats good grunt !

We will be doing runs with the 5 and 7 ports as soon as we get our exhaust fan working again !

Max HP was produced with the Go 2047 pipe Max Torque was produced with the LRP 2063 pipe

We also had the OCM race team at NSW Titles on the weekend with the Go 5 and 7 port racing and the guys gave it the big thumbs up ! They did what i told them to do , Run it at 140 Deg c and remove the restrictor all together !

Result was Tons of power , same fuel economy ! There is something i doscovered in the Go carb thats really interesting that allows you to run max carb intake with same economy !

if you have any further questions on Go up grades and tech tips please do not hesitate

[email protected]

www.massivemods.com

Thank you all for those answers. I'll be starting break in tommarow or next day waiting on clutch springs due to a factory error of them not coming with a set of shoes i just bought so as soon as i get them in ill be breakin it in and hopefully i'll get some pics up of the buggy and the motor.

Massive....interesting. That is a little warmer than I would like to run a motor. Would like to hear some more about your testing and findings.