Do you know exactly which one of them might be? There are more than one .28 on GO's web page. Even more, I have to measure the cylinder in order to see if it really is a .28 engine. Some say it is, in fact, a .25 engine. It would be interesting to know exactly what it is if, maybe sometday I will need some replacement parts.

HobbyKing carries the Trackstar engines with the red cooling heads and the EG Sport engines with the black cooling heads. Mine is a Trackstar and it has a turbo plug. (Evidently some were not turbo plugged)The EG Sport engines use a regular plug. As for the displacement, I also saw in reviews and such that the displacement was not as advertised but I haven't measured mine as I don't really care. Parts might be difficult to get as Go is out of business so any parts you need might be new-old stock from somewhere.

I wouldn't suppose anyone has a Go .28 gasser flywheel for sale? I misplaced one of mine.

Looks like the part number is GO-1704G

Thanks if anyone has any leads.

I do not have just the flywheel but I do have a complete engine. It only has a few tanks through it, complete with ignition.

Rex

Thanks for the response. I've gotten another offer for a new in box one as well. I have two of these engines (and love em) but I think I'd rather machine my own flywheel rather then get a whole other engine just for the flywheel. I even have two spare piston/sleeve/rod sets for them, un-used, so the rest of the engine isn't really necessary either.

I mean, if the price is irresistable then maybe I'll go for it. Heck, PM me.

Does anyone know if this piston/sleeve/rod assembly will fit & work properly in the older GX-5R GO Engine. I have a modified GO Engine that is now starting to loose a little compression & was offered the parts but not sure if they are correct for mine.
Part number is 21-02205x & on the exploded view of my engine the number for the assembly is 21-2205. Being a stock part I will loose power/torque but atleast my engine will be like new again, just slower, but for $50 its a good option.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4259b02d90.jpg

That Piston, liner and con-rod kit is one of the alternatives that I use on any of my GO based engines Paul. Your Godzilla and my MG66's have an extra transfer port under the inlet port and more refined fluting up to the ports. The timing, if you need a little more 'Snap', is done by adding special STEEL shims under the lip of the liner. They come in various thicknesses .01mm, .02mm and .03mm etc, but remember, you must remove the corresponding size button shim otherwise you will DECREASE compression. PM me if you need any further help or info on where to soure your GO Engines spares.;)

:tire::D:tire:

Thanks PaleBushman, just what I wanted to hear, will need to do something about it soon I think, probably after xmas some time.
As long as them parts would still make it go ok then that would be ok, although I might have to talk to you about some parts if you can get them.
Thanks.

So I ordered 2 engines for a twin engine build from HK for a project and received 2 completely different motors and am looking for help to get the right PN for the replacement sleeve/crank/conrod to match the one on the left can anyone help?

Edited:

Wont let me attach the pictures.

Can you copy/paste the link to the HK page that your engines are on please. Maybe be able to help you that way twinnitropromod ;)

:tire::D:tire:

Ill PM you the pictures

Hi 57ratrod,
Not too sure which GO-Tech engine modified by EB Mods you are referring to, but lets see if we can help to get you in the ball park with your carb settings.

My "Massive Mods" MG66 is a modified ·21 5 port GO Engine and it has the 2 needle composite carb with standard 8mm venturi insert. With this type of carb,
set your idle gap to ·7mm with the 'Idle Set Screw', the one in the carbs composite body, then rotate your LSN 1 full turn in from flush,and leave your HSN set to flush.
Start your engine and warm it up, then put the buggy on the ground and gently drive it around to get the engine and chassis up to track running temperature,
circa 110'C/230'F. This is where you can then 'Fine Tune' your HSN for top end performance. After you have a good top end tune, you may want to re-visit
your LSN if your idle is too high. Whatever needles you adjust for best mixture settings, do not alter your 'Idle Set Screw' or you will chase your tail forever.
If your engine is holding a nice steady 'purring' when you pull the buggy to a standstill, but you can see your clutch is trying to engage,
this is the only time you would want to back off your 'Idle Set Screw' and by no more than 1 twelfth (1hour) while the engine and chassis are still hot.
1 more lap around the track, pull up to a standstill and all should be good for you.

The top GO Engines "Guru" and another friend of mine may pop in with their input, but meanwhile I hope my suggestions will help you 57ratrod.

:tire:;):tire:


.

Does anyone know what size pinch bolt Go used on their .21s? I just broke in a GXII Plus and lost the pinch bolt during a race. It is smaller than an M3 but I really need to know the exact size.

Hi frewster,
The screw you are looking for is the one in the bottom left corner of this GO Engine parts page yes? That screw is an M2.6 x 20, which is not shown as an individual item, but you local hobby shop will no doubt be able to help you get one.

Hope this helps.
:tire:;):tire: