Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

i dropped 3 seconds off my lap speed with new engine and ED trans, but now i am stuck at that lap time

4 months ago i was 25.0 seconds lap time
then as time improved and more stick practice on track time came down after new OS TZ and ED Trans, plus manyother Hop Ups... now i run 21.6 as PB time!!!

my average lap is still 23.5 over 27 laps over 10min heats

i even ran the OS TZ at 133 degrees not sure in farenheight but i ran it lean and hard to see if i got a gain!

maybe back to basics, read read read, i need some of the top drivers out there with there setups, but then again it might not work down here as tracks differ alot!

Our track is not preped surface, its bumpy into corners and out of some, very low grip and tends to gain grip mid to late arvo if weathr is good!

i enjoy the challenge, and luv the racing side of things its great fun....

anyways, i off t bed, thou post away ideas guys, you guys that have major success i do need to see a proper setup sheet for referance to see wha makes ur car differant to mine!

kindest Regards
Frankie

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

hey gansei, i tried this clutch setup:

first i tried .5 gap and it felt ok i guess, i was very new too sport etc

then i changed to .2 gap and it felt differant again, like it didnt sanp on the power as hard!!!

A. do we adjus the gap smaller and smaller to lesser the sling shot effect

B, do we add the clutch gap to .5 to have that slight slip and then BANG sling shot engament?

i use 1 weight in each shoe, shuld i put 2 weights back in?

Also, my rear always turns on itself? WHY WHY WHY, allt he bloody time its doing it!!!

also noticed very very bad wear in rear drive cups, lots of play has arrived since last race, time for new cups ASAP

dunno guys

gansei

and.. try increasing droop length.

example.. front -1~0mm, rear 1~2mm


and try 2 weight shim... very stable in throttle on.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

Firstly Frankie, i have raced your track. i also left a setup sheet. i did get into the 19's but not consistently. now as you saw, my clutch was stuffed. my drive cups were worn. you may have noticed a deterioration in my setup over the weekend. this is due to the cups and clutch. the weekend just gone, i think we both played with setups. and both had bad cars. the diff cups wont help one little bit, and the clutch will not allow any slip once it engages on alloy to alloy. this i think is the main reason your car was so snappy and taily. replace those bits as i know you have ordered them. go back to the setup sheet and start from there. i went from a car with great handling, and a slow motor. to next week, fast motor and bad car. all due to the front roll center adjustments. i still run 3mm chassis, speed shot front and ED trans with new style rear hubs. thats it. no alloy radio supports or carbon side plates. the 4mm chassis, alloy radio supports and carbon side plates stiffen the car greatly. a new concept towards setup is required. also i think most of those upgrades are great for high traction tracks where your trying to dial out grip in the car. low traction needs grip, so maybe going forward with the stiff and Bling upgrades arent exactly what you need right now. if all else fails, go back to basics. im always around Frankie, and you know ill help when i can. chin up man, talk soon .

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Second car is good for testing and having a backup, but it's much more work and unless you got exactly the same gear in each - and move motors to do comparisons, it's really not the same.

If you're running a stock OS TZ, perhaps it's time to get something faster. TZ will only take you so far. What I found with my stock TZ and setup, is that if you lose a few positions, you really can't catch up, because it just doesn't have enough power. If you want to keep the TZ, a Murnan crank will give you much more bottom end if you're on a technical track.

For a lot more power all the way around, try the newest CRF with all the upgrades. That thing is very quick. Or maybe one of those IDMs.

What gearing are you running on the ED and have you tried different combos. Also, have you tried DAZ's clutch setup? It's in the KB.

ALG

are they HTD style???
Thanks

daniz24

for on power grip try :

highest position for the rear shock.
use thinner rear diff oil (example from 20k to 10k)
add more front downstop (example from 0 to 1 or 2)
add little bit more rear camber

When I still drive G4 I change the whole diff gears with Kyosho V-One RR parts and resulting a smoother and more consistent diff action

gansei

what do you mean by "HTD"?

razzor

This might help http://www.sflee.co.kr/industrialbelts/s3m.htm

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Which reminds me... What brand and shore tires are you running Frankie?

casimirsa

I do not know if it is an optical illusion but the shoe base seems pulled out of alignment!

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

kodakhodak: Are you running a mugen rear sway bar? What size?

Have you tried a 2.0mm one?

On our low grip track I found my G4S wanted to keep swapping ends with the 2.3mm swaybar on. As soon as I changed to a 2.0, the issue disappeared.

gansei

i have a question about car cornering setup.

if i want to increase more steering and rotation speed,

is increasing more rear camber effective?

ALG

That is the style of the teeth or better the shape of it.
I think they are timming belts???

I will try to get some with our industrial shop.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

i have run Kfactory 38W all rouund for a few meets, then tried Nitro Shoes 38W front and 40W rears just recently!!!