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Old 06-18-2007, 08:16 AM   #7186
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Originally Posted by vc05hdt View Post
I read the prev page and see you are running spool Kodak. Did you run the car with factory gear supplied in kit then purchased ED transmission? How did it go then? Is anyone having sucess with stock factory kit?
i dropped 3 seconds off my lap speed with new engine and ED trans, but now i am stuck at that lap time

4 months ago i was 25.0 seconds lap time
then as time improved and more stick practice on track time came down after new OS TZ and ED Trans, plus manyother Hop Ups... now i run 21.6 as PB time!!!

my average lap is still 23.5 over 27 laps over 10min heats

i even ran the OS TZ at 133 degrees not sure in farenheight but i ran it lean and hard to see if i got a gain!

maybe back to basics, read read read, i need some of the top drivers out there with there setups, but then again it might not work down here as tracks differ alot!

Our track is not preped surface, its bumpy into corners and out of some, very low grip and tends to gain grip mid to late arvo if weathr is good!

i enjoy the challenge, and luv the racing side of things its great fun....

anyways, i off t bed, thou post away ideas guys, you guys that have major success i do need to see a proper setup sheet for referance to see wha makes ur car differant to mine!

kindest Regards
Frankie
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:22 AM   #7187
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Originally Posted by gansei View Post
hi!!! kodakhodak

i am also very suffered for setup G4S after replace from RRR about 1-3 months.

the most difficult setup was corner exit.

the rear grip was very unstable.


i quess the reason is UFO Clutch.

rear grip was unstable for too powerful torque of UFO clutch.

so i always used 2 weight shim(UFO) for mild acceleration.


i tested 6mm muffler in my G4S in last weekend a short while.
(i always used 5mm muffler)

But rear grip was unstable in corner exit for too powerful torque.

so i changed 5mm muffler again.


mugen MTX-3,4 clutch was some heavy.

so acceleration was mild.. (my quess)


how about change your clutch setup?

though car setup was great.. it is very difficult to drive in too powerful torque
hey gansei, i tried this clutch setup:

first i tried .5 gap and it felt ok i guess, i was very new too sport etc

then i changed to .2 gap and it felt differant again, like it didnt sanp on the power as hard!!!

A. do we adjus the gap smaller and smaller to lesser the sling shot effect

B, do we add the clutch gap to .5 to have that slight slip and then BANG sling shot engament?

i use 1 weight in each shoe, shuld i put 2 weights back in?

Also, my rear always turns on itself? WHY WHY WHY, allt he bloody time its doing it!!!

also noticed very very bad wear in rear drive cups, lots of play has arrived since last race, time for new cups ASAP

dunno guys
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:28 AM   #7188
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
hey gansei, i tried this clutch setup:

first i tried .5 gap and it felt ok i guess, i was very new too sport etc

then i changed to .2 gap and it felt differant again, like it didnt sanp on the power as hard!!!

A. do we adjus the gap smaller and smaller to lesser the sling shot effect

B, do we add the clutch gap to .5 to have that slight slip and then BANG sling shot engament?

i use 1 weight in each shoe, shuld i put 2 weights back in?

Also, my rear always turns on itself? WHY WHY WHY, allt he bloody time its doing it!!!

also noticed very very bad wear in rear drive cups, lots of play has arrived since last race, time for new cups ASAP

dunno guys
and.. try increasing droop length.

example.. front -1~0mm, rear 1~2mm


and try 2 weight shim... very stable in throttle on.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:53 AM   #7189
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Firstly Frankie, i have raced your track. i also left a setup sheet. i did get into the 19's but not consistently. now as you saw, my clutch was stuffed. my drive cups were worn. you may have noticed a deterioration in my setup over the weekend. this is due to the cups and clutch. the weekend just gone, i think we both played with setups. and both had bad cars. the diff cups wont help one little bit, and the clutch will not allow any slip once it engages on alloy to alloy. this i think is the main reason your car was so snappy and taily. replace those bits as i know you have ordered them. go back to the setup sheet and start from there. i went from a car with great handling, and a slow motor. to next week, fast motor and bad car. all due to the front roll center adjustments. i still run 3mm chassis, speed shot front and ED trans with new style rear hubs. thats it. no alloy radio supports or carbon side plates. the 4mm chassis, alloy radio supports and carbon side plates stiffen the car greatly. a new concept towards setup is required. also i think most of those upgrades are great for high traction tracks where your trying to dial out grip in the car. low traction needs grip, so maybe going forward with the stiff and Bling upgrades arent exactly what you need right now. if all else fails, go back to basics. im always around Frankie, and you know ill help when i can. chin up man, talk soon .
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:34 AM   #7190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
dunno dunno dunno.... just stating that i could have bought 2 x g4S kits for the amount of hop ups on my car.... thinking of another massive ordr forthe new G4S+ parts, and if i cant get improvement from this then who knows which way i go, maybe i need another car to see the overall difference!!!
Second car is good for testing and having a backup, but it's much more work and unless you got exactly the same gear in each - and move motors to do comparisons, it's really not the same.

If you're running a stock OS TZ, perhaps it's time to get something faster. TZ will only take you so far. What I found with my stock TZ and setup, is that if you lose a few positions, you really can't catch up, because it just doesn't have enough power. If you want to keep the TZ, a Murnan crank will give you much more bottom end if you're on a technical track.

For a lot more power all the way around, try the newest CRF with all the upgrades. That thing is very quick. Or maybe one of those IDMs.

What gearing are you running on the ED and have you tried different combos. Also, have you tried DAZ's clutch setup? It's in the KB.
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:37 AM   #7191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
V-one RR belts is same with G4S..

But i don't know RR's rubber belt(low friction) was sold by option product.

My rubber belt partnum is

front: MBL(mitsubishi) S3M 210
side: Bando Japan S3M 378
rear: MBL(mitsubishi) S3M 192

number / 3 = belt teeth number.

and i don't know possible links to buy such belts.

i orderd from korea local belt importer(wholesale dealer, factory).

are they HTD style???
Thanks
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:46 AM   #7192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
all i want is a car well planted for grip on a low grip bumpy track, generally fast track not too technical, just still fighting out of corner grip....

in corner steer is good, just on power steering front require more attention, and rear grip is not the best at times!!!

for on power grip try :

highest position for the rear shock.
use thinner rear diff oil (example from 20k to 10k)
add more front downstop (example from 0 to 1 or 2)
add little bit more rear camber

When I still drive G4 I change the whole diff gears with Kyosho V-One RR parts and resulting a smoother and more consistent diff action
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:50 AM   #7193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALG View Post
are they HTD style???
Thanks
what do you mean by "HTD"?
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:52 AM   #7194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
V-one RR belts is same with G4S..

But i don't know RR's rubber belt(low friction) was sold by option product.

My rubber belt partnum is

front: MBL(mitsubishi) S3M 210
side: Bando Japan S3M 378
rear: MBL(mitsubishi) S3M 192

number / 3 = belt teeth number.

and i don't know possible links to buy such belts.

i orderd from korea local belt importer(wholesale dealer, factory).
This might help http://www.sflee.co.kr/industrialbelts/s3m.htm
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:52 AM   #7195
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Which reminds me... What brand and shore tires are you running Frankie?
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:32 AM   #7196
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Originally Posted by razzor View Post
You would need just the shoe Kodak and if you wanted you couls trim the lip on the shoe base like mentioned before by Gansei.
I do not know if it is an optical illusion but the shoe base seems pulled out of alignment!
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:16 PM   #7197
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kodakhodak: Are you running a mugen rear sway bar? What size?

Have you tried a 2.0mm one?

On our low grip track I found my G4S wanted to keep swapping ends with the 2.3mm swaybar on. As soon as I changed to a 2.0, the issue disappeared.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:37 PM   #7198
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i have a question about car cornering setup.

if i want to increase more steering and rotation speed,

is increasing more rear camber effective?
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:16 PM   #7199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
what do you mean by "HTD"?
That is the style of the teeth or better the shape of it.
I think they are timming belts???

I will try to get some with our industrial shop.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:14 PM   #7200
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Which reminds me... What brand and shore tires are you running Frankie?
i have run Kfactory 38W all rouund for a few meets, then tried Nitro Shoes 38W front and 40W rears just recently!!!
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