Team Magic G4
#7111
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
toe front +1
camber front -2
toe rear -2.5
camber rear -4
ride height front/rear 5mm/5.5mm
too bad weather has been crap here and I cant test how well the car grips up.
I also added a new futuba S9451 digital/coreless since last time I drove it so lets see how this handles.
camber front -2
toe rear -2.5
camber rear -4
ride height front/rear 5mm/5.5mm
too bad weather has been crap here and I cant test how well the car grips up.
I also added a new futuba S9451 digital/coreless since last time I drove it so lets see how this handles.
#7112
toe front +1
camber front -2
toe rear -2.5
camber rear -4
ride height front/rear 5mm/5.5mm
too bad weather has been crap here and I cant test how well the car grips up.
I also added a new futuba S9451 digital/coreless since last time I drove it so lets see how this handles.
camber front -2
toe rear -2.5
camber rear -4
ride height front/rear 5mm/5.5mm
too bad weather has been crap here and I cant test how well the car grips up.
I also added a new futuba S9451 digital/coreless since last time I drove it so lets see how this handles.
so rear grip(traction) is very high..
i tried this setup
toe front +2
camber front -3.5
toe rear -1.5
camber rear -3
and i record new best lap..
#7113
my new clutch setup
my new clutch setup
Clearance(gap): 0.3mm
end play: 0.3mm
black shoe
weight shim: 2
spring: mugen super hard(silver)
spring lock:
lock the spring max until not turn.
and unlock 1 turn ~ 3/4 turn.
this is a Kitade Clutch setup Style.
Clearance(gap): 0.3mm
end play: 0.3mm
black shoe
weight shim: 2
spring: mugen super hard(silver)
spring lock:
lock the spring max until not turn.
and unlock 1 turn ~ 3/4 turn.
this is a Kitade Clutch setup Style.
#7114
It looks radical, very different. My instincts tell me its not right but I've never tried it so it'll be interesting to see your report when you use it for your next race.
#7115
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
guys, since some of G4+ parts are already available now, (such as duro spurs, fly arm), may i know wats the main difference between these duro spurs and the one we are all using? coz i noticed that there are 3 holes on the spur gears. think shall grab those fly arm for spares!!!
#7116
#7117
Hi rmd'
There is a small 'flange' that the pressure plate/ clutch pad sits in.
It is this flange, the thickness of the plate that Gansei and Daz are talking about. Stock, they are around 1.7mm thick. If you cut this down to 1.2 it will increase the amount of wear the pad will take before replacement.
The new U.F.O 2 clutch on the G4+ comes with this mod already done
Hope I've explained this right.
Menace
There is a small 'flange' that the pressure plate/ clutch pad sits in.
It is this flange, the thickness of the plate that Gansei and Daz are talking about. Stock, they are around 1.7mm thick. If you cut this down to 1.2 it will increase the amount of wear the pad will take before replacement.
The new U.F.O 2 clutch on the G4+ comes with this mod already done
Hope I've explained this right.
Menace
#7118
Thanks Menace. Now I got it. You explained it right.
#7119
#7120
Only ???!!! i have with it is that you using so much end play .3mm.
I usually shim under the inner bearing till bell binds a little bit and then remove a .1mm shim and then check it spins freely.Too much end play damages the thrust bearing from what ive been told and to date that has never happened to me.
#7122
Interesting setup Gansei ,let us know how it works.
Only ???!!! i have with it is that you using so much end play .3mm.
I usually shim under the inner bearing till bell binds a little bit and then remove a .1mm shim and then check it spins freely.Too much end play damages the thrust bearing from what ive been told and to date that has never happened to me.
Only ???!!! i have with it is that you using so much end play .3mm.
I usually shim under the inner bearing till bell binds a little bit and then remove a .1mm shim and then check it spins freely.Too much end play damages the thrust bearing from what ive been told and to date that has never happened to me.
#7123
#7124
"Too much end play damages the thrust bearing "
=> never.. it is a only formulas theory.
i already tested the clutch setup before 1 month.
But there are no the thrust bearing DIE!!!!
my Best lap was 16.92x in Kirina circuit
But after change clutch setup.. i recorded new best lap '16.8xx'
of course, i can't say the reason clutch setup was great!
But i feel more driving force after changing clutch setup.
i will test it more...
and.. i heard from japanese Driver in recent days.
that japanese driver favor to setup clutch to meet early like my setup ^^
=> never.. it is a only formulas theory.
i already tested the clutch setup before 1 month.
But there are no the thrust bearing DIE!!!!
my Best lap was 16.92x in Kirina circuit
But after change clutch setup.. i recorded new best lap '16.8xx'
of course, i can't say the reason clutch setup was great!
But i feel more driving force after changing clutch setup.
i will test it more...
and.. i heard from japanese Driver in recent days.
that japanese driver favor to setup clutch to meet early like my setup ^^
#7125
NEW TIP
i changed ED Brake system By M1B Brake Disk.
ED Brake Holder easily be dig(damaged) by hard Braking.
(i already changed new two Brake holder!)
But M1B Brake Disk reached area is wider than G4S's one.
※ if you try it, you must cut brake pad holder (left one, near to brake pully)
because brake pad hoder little touched with brake disk.
ED Brake Holder easily be dig(damaged) by hard Braking.
(i already changed new two Brake holder!)
But M1B Brake Disk reached area is wider than G4S's one.
※ if you try it, you must cut brake pad holder (left one, near to brake pully)
because brake pad hoder little touched with brake disk.