Team Magic G4
#4126
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by razzor
Hi guys ,got a break at the nats to post.Will post pics later on Monday .
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
cant wait to hear how u go
paul
#4127
Originally Posted by razzor
Hi guys ,got a break at the nats to post.Will post pics later on Monday .
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
#4128
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
#4129
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by razzor
Hi guys ,got a break at the nats to post.Will post pics later on Monday .
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
Goodluck friend - do us proud with Team magic G4, btw thanks for the info on the weights of the clutch!!! just what i thought
#4130
Originally Posted by razzor
Hi guys ,got a break at the nats to post.Will post pics later on Monday .
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
having a ball.
Just a comment on the clutch setup with out the weights ,I am running without the weights at the moment with the 1.8 black spring.
Clutch is biting well and good punch on a VHT prepared track.
Only hassle is we are battling for rear traction and uneven wear.
Running 40f and 35r tyres .
Qualified 13th overall and am so chuffed
Finals tomorrow so im off to get car prepped.
#4131
Hey guys, I know this has been hashed out more then once. Back to shock since I am FINALLY working on my car! I plan on drilling holes. I want to start with a 1.3 MM in ONE hole for fronts and 1.3 mm in both holes on rear. I'm am doing this on what my past experiences are with 1:8th scale. Larger in the rear for the rear traction concerns. Such as what Razzor is having issues with at his Nats race. Then I think I will start with what ever oil I decide. Not sure yet, but probably 40 wt. Serpent oil all the way around. Don't know about springs, but probably Purple in the rear and teal up front (TM).
I've read a lot about guys using the Losi 40wt oil which is like serpent 20 or 25 or so. Very thin compaired to Serpent. I'll let you all know what I come up with when I'm done. Might have to play with it till I get the static results that feel close at least. I can't run the car since I have the same weather issues as Gascar 24? Well I think it's Gascar, Snow, cold YUCK!!!!! I need sun!!! I guess I need to pray to the sun Gods after the race Gods!
Hey Frankie, this reminds me now that I am working on shocks. As far as rebound, In theory and reality you should have NO rebound. However it's VERY VERY hard to get perfect. I have done shock 1000's of time litteraly, and the best thing is to get minimum rebound where the shock shaft Barely comes out. Plus make sure they all rebound the SAME amount!! Most important or will throw off tweak. And after a day of racing it is very normal to end up with no rebound. This doesn't mean you need to fill them up at all.
You can tell if your shock needs new oil by taking the shock and moving it in and out at a medium speed (don't pump the shocks or you won't be able to tell. If you feel a "spongy" feel you will know. It has air in it. Not good. You want to have a consistant "hydrolic" feel through the full range of the shock.
Now if you have that spongy feel, when do you just add or empty your shock and refill? If you only have a few hours on the shocks, I would just fill them up and go on. However if this happens that soon you might have a leak that need attension. Now if you have a few weeks up to a month with the same oil, I would empty out the old oil and put in fresh. You don't need to get every bit of oil out, I usually dump it out and have the shocks sit upside down on a paper towel for 10-15 minutes. Then refill them. This is the same thing I do if I change weights also. Make sence on all of this my friend? Okee dokee. I'm off to the car guys. I will keep you all posted.
We have our first club race on March 4th. That is of coarse pending good weather. So I will need any help I can aquire because I will be running against about 3 other A main dudes. And I don't mean club level A mains, I mean Winter nat A and B main guys. So I will be able to tell how I would do in a BIG race with our G4S! And I need to obviously get us on the map a bit more over here in the states. I can drive, have the parts and engines and all, but need the experience with sedan. I only raced sedan ONCE! I think most of you know the story about me. Plus I will NEVER give up 1:8th scale. You can see why after watching Gensei's video of them being passed twice by the 1:8 scale on their track. So I plan on running both my Slide and G4S this season.
Any feed back is welcomed from all!! Thanks guys!
Sorry for the HUGE post.
I've read a lot about guys using the Losi 40wt oil which is like serpent 20 or 25 or so. Very thin compaired to Serpent. I'll let you all know what I come up with when I'm done. Might have to play with it till I get the static results that feel close at least. I can't run the car since I have the same weather issues as Gascar 24? Well I think it's Gascar, Snow, cold YUCK!!!!! I need sun!!! I guess I need to pray to the sun Gods after the race Gods!
Hey Frankie, this reminds me now that I am working on shocks. As far as rebound, In theory and reality you should have NO rebound. However it's VERY VERY hard to get perfect. I have done shock 1000's of time litteraly, and the best thing is to get minimum rebound where the shock shaft Barely comes out. Plus make sure they all rebound the SAME amount!! Most important or will throw off tweak. And after a day of racing it is very normal to end up with no rebound. This doesn't mean you need to fill them up at all.
You can tell if your shock needs new oil by taking the shock and moving it in and out at a medium speed (don't pump the shocks or you won't be able to tell. If you feel a "spongy" feel you will know. It has air in it. Not good. You want to have a consistant "hydrolic" feel through the full range of the shock.
Now if you have that spongy feel, when do you just add or empty your shock and refill? If you only have a few hours on the shocks, I would just fill them up and go on. However if this happens that soon you might have a leak that need attension. Now if you have a few weeks up to a month with the same oil, I would empty out the old oil and put in fresh. You don't need to get every bit of oil out, I usually dump it out and have the shocks sit upside down on a paper towel for 10-15 minutes. Then refill them. This is the same thing I do if I change weights also. Make sence on all of this my friend? Okee dokee. I'm off to the car guys. I will keep you all posted.
We have our first club race on March 4th. That is of coarse pending good weather. So I will need any help I can aquire because I will be running against about 3 other A main dudes. And I don't mean club level A mains, I mean Winter nat A and B main guys. So I will be able to tell how I would do in a BIG race with our G4S! And I need to obviously get us on the map a bit more over here in the states. I can drive, have the parts and engines and all, but need the experience with sedan. I only raced sedan ONCE! I think most of you know the story about me. Plus I will NEVER give up 1:8th scale. You can see why after watching Gensei's video of them being passed twice by the 1:8 scale on their track. So I plan on running both my Slide and G4S this season.
Any feed back is welcomed from all!! Thanks guys!
Sorry for the HUGE post.
#4132
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
looks like i need to re-do my shocks again---- i think i have a bit too much rebound!!!
cheers for clearing this up man! As for the LOSI oil yeah it did look rather thin for 50w, might have to hit up the Assocciated 50W as most talk about!!!
Just another note, my nova 2630 pipe the stinger has a dent in the pipo as i slapped it coming out of the corner and ran wide doing a nice side swipe, here is a pic and any tips on fixing this:
What tools do i need as i dont want to break it then i am stuffed!!!
cheers for clearing this up man! As for the LOSI oil yeah it did look rather thin for 50w, might have to hit up the Assocciated 50W as most talk about!!!
Just another note, my nova 2630 pipe the stinger has a dent in the pipo as i slapped it coming out of the corner and ran wide doing a nice side swipe, here is a pic and any tips on fixing this:
What tools do i need as i dont want to break it then i am stuffed!!!
#4135
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Rawz
Welcome GBagRAcing !
I got this to fit a gear diff:
Diff. Case and pulley set front & rear 502302 <- don't know if there is a package with only one case ...
4X10 mm shim, bevel shaft, gear set 502117
Diff joint, P5 o-ring, shim, pin 502116
ST Stell diff. Joint cup K14125 <- got this, stronger, but the 502116 have the standart one.
Thats it.
I got this to fit a gear diff:
Diff. Case and pulley set front & rear 502302 <- don't know if there is a package with only one case ...
4X10 mm shim, bevel shaft, gear set 502117
Diff joint, P5 o-ring, shim, pin 502116
ST Stell diff. Joint cup K14125 <- got this, stronger, but the 502116 have the standart one.
Thats it.
#4136
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
fixed it - CHEERS SepantD you are a ledge
i used my trust barbeque as i did'nt have flame tourch
i used my trust barbeque as i did'nt have flame tourch
#4137
A few mods before i race next week..i think ill get the Black clutch spring and some different gears so that i can gear it for the short track ill be racing on.
Last edited by black-knight; 10-14-2008 at 04:14 PM.
#4138
What length are you guys doing your shocks? Is it 64mm???
#4139
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by Serpentd
What length are you guys doing your shocks? Is it 64mm???
hey bro just measured mine all fours and all round its 64mm, the adjustments on the collars will vary on the ride height you choose!!!
hope this helps - be good to find out what others have!!!
#4140
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
With no disrespect intended, I think there is a little bit of bench racing going on here.
As far as shocks go, if you build them with medium rebound (I prefer to do it this way) you can use a lighter oil like the associated/losi 40wt. If you don't build it with the rebound you would need to set the shock up differently. The theory (and over here - in practice) is that this is similar to having a shock with different bump and rebound capabilities without having to use a heavy shock spring. I won't go into it any further but you should probably try both ways and see which one works best for you.
The next thing is the clutch flyweight weights. If you put 1, 2, or no weights in the clutch, this has an impact on the holding/engaging 'strength' and timing of the clutch. While it would be like a lightened flywheel in the minutest amount, this is not why it's done. If it was then we would just lighten the flywheel. With all the weights in, the clutch will engage and stay locked. If you run with 1 weight, then your clutch will engage a little softer but also a little later, and if you run with no weights it will engage softer still and even slip a little as well as engage later. This is all assuming you don't play with the clutch gap and spring preload while changing the weights.
Today for example I started with no weights in the clutch, a 0.7mm gap and 1 thread of preload. With this combination, there was too much slip. I ended up with 1 weight, .4mm gap and 2 threads of preload to get the engagement I was looking for. So as you can see, everything affects everything.
By the way, I qualified second today and won the main event. It was a great battle with a different MTX-4 driver from last week but awesome fun. I think I won the main by about .1 of a second in the end.
So that's 2 wins from 2 starts in our championship so I couldn't be more happy with the way things are going.
Cheers,
Mike.
As far as shocks go, if you build them with medium rebound (I prefer to do it this way) you can use a lighter oil like the associated/losi 40wt. If you don't build it with the rebound you would need to set the shock up differently. The theory (and over here - in practice) is that this is similar to having a shock with different bump and rebound capabilities without having to use a heavy shock spring. I won't go into it any further but you should probably try both ways and see which one works best for you.
The next thing is the clutch flyweight weights. If you put 1, 2, or no weights in the clutch, this has an impact on the holding/engaging 'strength' and timing of the clutch. While it would be like a lightened flywheel in the minutest amount, this is not why it's done. If it was then we would just lighten the flywheel. With all the weights in, the clutch will engage and stay locked. If you run with 1 weight, then your clutch will engage a little softer but also a little later, and if you run with no weights it will engage softer still and even slip a little as well as engage later. This is all assuming you don't play with the clutch gap and spring preload while changing the weights.
Today for example I started with no weights in the clutch, a 0.7mm gap and 1 thread of preload. With this combination, there was too much slip. I ended up with 1 weight, .4mm gap and 2 threads of preload to get the engagement I was looking for. So as you can see, everything affects everything.
By the way, I qualified second today and won the main event. It was a great battle with a different MTX-4 driver from last week but awesome fun. I think I won the main by about .1 of a second in the end.
So that's 2 wins from 2 starts in our championship so I couldn't be more happy with the way things are going.
Cheers,
Mike.