RayJ

The K-factory belts are the way to go. I still have the same set of belts on my car since January, and they still look like new. These belts just don't seem to wear out after many many race weekends.

Brian Berry

I was told the G4S stock belts are the same thing as the KFactory belts. Only difference is that the KFactory belts have the part number on them. But thats what I have been told and I kinda believe it since the stock G4S belts and the KFactory belts performed the same for me (which happened to be very good).

In fact for me, I have always put new belts on my car if I am preparing for a long final (like the ROAR Nats I was at a few weeks back) when I raced 1/8th. As I was checking the belts (which were stock G4S belts) I noticed no signs of wear and no teeth missing. So I didn't replace them since they looked new. The track we raced on had its fair share of high speed bumps, which is typically a sure sign to loose a belt sometime during the week. But I did not have any issues with the stock G4S belts or the KFactory belts I had in the other car on the same track the same week. Both of my cars' belts looked identical!

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

Just wondering if anyone is going to the race? I've never been there (Intense Raceway Park) before and was wondering what a good setup/ tire combo would be? Thanks

rbboy

hi darren! thanks for mailing me your set-up. you are using diffs in front... hmmm isn't one-way faster or not necessarily? more or less my set-up is now like yours except for the rear camber link. does that have a lower roll center? also, i have noticed that the tires you used in heemstede is 38 front and 42 rear.. how's the tire wear? 3mm difference is good with the 38 front and 40 rear ever experimented using the 2 degrees offset of jaco nitro shoes? really hope you could represent team magic at the worlds on september

muppet racing

Hi Carlo,

At Heemstede you have to use a diff, as there is a a hairpin at the end of an 80m + straight ! And you need corner speed at other parts, so not a solid for me.

I prefer driving with a one-way, but mostly its been a diff this year, the one way needs to be a good bit quicker, as if you are racing in a 30min final with 5 fuel stops, if you loose 1 seocnd each stop with slower pit stops (no brakes and slippery pit lane, and racing against others with diffs) then thats too much !

But we also dont have treated tracks, so our grip would probably be classed as quite low.

The rear link, you just have to try for each track, and see what suits you & track, I have used that position at most tracks this year, I know what my car will do with it there.

The 42 & 38, were Jaco 2 stage, partly to get some steering, and partly to even out the tyre wear, I tend to start with 2.5mm split, any bigger and i cant get enough steering .....

Not really tried the 2' offset, all my tyres are 0', so i dont think i will start either !!

Good Luck,
Darren.

nitro_racer23

Does anyone know the part number for the g4s upgrade kit is it 502068 i just want to make sure.

cheers
Chris

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

sure is chris

macthehack

I got the 4mm Kfactory chassis and it seems that you can not use the receiver holder with this chassis.
What are you guys doing ?
Also I got the Lola body and would like to get rid of the handle as it will not protect the head of you roll.
Has anyone got a fix so you can put a roll over bar and something better to pick up the car faster , as the stock G4s handle is not real handy for that.
Just looking to make refueling more proficient.
Also with the 4mm Kfactory it does not have a milled out area like the stock and the battery will touch the chassis but without any pressure on the pack.
Will this be OK.
Thanks Gary M.

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

Handle wise, use the 3racing handle, they are designed to protect the engine
as long as the battery are not under pressure, leave it as it is

razzor

Question for the more experienced guys.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.

uniquexme

iTrader: (12)

anyone tried using the K Factory Ball diff (rear)? just wondering wats the major difference that u can feel from it. thanks

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

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MechanicJon

Have you seen the write up on it? http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I am not a pro, but I have deal with centax ever since my first on-road car (G4E).
To me, Centax is all about when it engage, that determine how strong the engagement and how fast is the car when it engage.

in high bite tract, the car is relatively stable and grip well to the floor, strong engagement will boost the speed up earlier, so the engine should give its power at high rev side. then you use less weight on the flyweight and/or stronger spring or more inner of the spring tension nut

in low bite place, smooth surface and dust cause the tyre to not having much contact. at this condition, strong punch of a high rev engagement will either be wasted by the slip or simply slip the car. at these moemtn I prefer to gradually increase the speed. therefore I wish the clutch to give engine's power at lower speed to prevent spin. the clutch has to engage early by having more wieght on the flyweight and/or softer spring or less turn in of spring tension nut

anyone correct me if I am wrong

razzor

Thanks Carbreaker ,thats the info I am looking for.

Mechanicjon ,got that info.
Hoping someone will share some tuning info with us lesser experienced guys.
We need to know what the benefits are of different setups.