Team Magic G4
#1486
K-factory Belts
The K-factory belts are the way to go. I still have the same set of belts on my car since January, and they still look like new. These belts just don't seem to wear out after many many race weekends.
#1487
Tech Regular
I was told the G4S stock belts are the same thing as the KFactory belts. Only difference is that the KFactory belts have the part number on them. But thats what I have been told and I kinda believe it since the stock G4S belts and the KFactory belts performed the same for me (which happened to be very good).
In fact for me, I have always put new belts on my car if I am preparing for a long final (like the ROAR Nats I was at a few weeks back) when I raced 1/8th. As I was checking the belts (which were stock G4S belts) I noticed no signs of wear and no teeth missing. So I didn't replace them since they looked new. The track we raced on had its fair share of high speed bumps, which is typically a sure sign to loose a belt sometime during the week. But I did not have any issues with the stock G4S belts or the KFactory belts I had in the other car on the same track the same week. Both of my cars' belts looked identical!
In fact for me, I have always put new belts on my car if I am preparing for a long final (like the ROAR Nats I was at a few weeks back) when I raced 1/8th. As I was checking the belts (which were stock G4S belts) I noticed no signs of wear and no teeth missing. So I didn't replace them since they looked new. The track we raced on had its fair share of high speed bumps, which is typically a sure sign to loose a belt sometime during the week. But I did not have any issues with the stock G4S belts or the KFactory belts I had in the other car on the same track the same week. Both of my cars' belts looked identical!
#1489
Originally Posted by muppet racing
Hi Carlo,
You got mail !
You got mail !
#1490
Hi Carlo,
At Heemstede you have to use a diff, as there is a a hairpin at the end of an 80m + straight ! And you need corner speed at other parts, so not a solid for me.
I prefer driving with a one-way, but mostly its been a diff this year, the one way needs to be a good bit quicker, as if you are racing in a 30min final with 5 fuel stops, if you loose 1 seocnd each stop with slower pit stops (no brakes and slippery pit lane, and racing against others with diffs) then thats too much !
But we also dont have treated tracks, so our grip would probably be classed as quite low.
The rear link, you just have to try for each track, and see what suits you & track, I have used that position at most tracks this year, I know what my car will do with it there.
The 42 & 38, were Jaco 2 stage, partly to get some steering, and partly to even out the tyre wear, I tend to start with 2.5mm split, any bigger and i cant get enough steering .....
Not really tried the 2' offset, all my tyres are 0', so i dont think i will start either !!
Good Luck,
Darren.
At Heemstede you have to use a diff, as there is a a hairpin at the end of an 80m + straight ! And you need corner speed at other parts, so not a solid for me.
I prefer driving with a one-way, but mostly its been a diff this year, the one way needs to be a good bit quicker, as if you are racing in a 30min final with 5 fuel stops, if you loose 1 seocnd each stop with slower pit stops (no brakes and slippery pit lane, and racing against others with diffs) then thats too much !
But we also dont have treated tracks, so our grip would probably be classed as quite low.
The rear link, you just have to try for each track, and see what suits you & track, I have used that position at most tracks this year, I know what my car will do with it there.
The 42 & 38, were Jaco 2 stage, partly to get some steering, and partly to even out the tyre wear, I tend to start with 2.5mm split, any bigger and i cant get enough steering .....
Not really tried the 2' offset, all my tyres are 0', so i dont think i will start either !!
Good Luck,
Darren.
#1491
Does anyone know the part number for the g4s upgrade kit is it 502068 i just want to make sure.
cheers
Chris
cheers
Chris
#1493
Tech Rookie
Questions with the 4mm Kfactory chassis
I got the 4mm Kfactory chassis and it seems that you can not use the receiver holder with this chassis.
What are you guys doing ?
Also I got the Lola body and would like to get rid of the handle as it will not protect the head of you roll.
Has anyone got a fix so you can put a roll over bar and something better to pick up the car faster , as the stock G4s handle is not real handy for that.
Just looking to make refueling more proficient.
Also with the 4mm Kfactory it does not have a milled out area like the stock and the battery will touch the chassis but without any pressure on the pack.
Will this be OK.
Thanks Gary M.
What are you guys doing ?
Also I got the Lola body and would like to get rid of the handle as it will not protect the head of you roll.
Has anyone got a fix so you can put a roll over bar and something better to pick up the car faster , as the stock G4s handle is not real handy for that.
Just looking to make refueling more proficient.
Also with the 4mm Kfactory it does not have a milled out area like the stock and the battery will touch the chassis but without any pressure on the pack.
Will this be OK.
Thanks Gary M.
#1494
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by macthehack
I got the 4mm Kfactory chassis and it seems that you can not use the receiver holder with this chassis.
What are you guys doing ?
Also I got the Lola body and would like to get rid of the handle as it will not protect the head of you roll.
Has anyone got a fix so you can put a roll over bar and something better to pick up the car faster , as the stock G4s handle is not real handy for that.
Just looking to make refueling more proficient.
Also with the 4mm Kfactory it does not have a milled out area like the stock and the battery will touch the chassis but without any pressure on the pack.
Will this be OK.
Thanks Gary M.
What are you guys doing ?
Also I got the Lola body and would like to get rid of the handle as it will not protect the head of you roll.
Has anyone got a fix so you can put a roll over bar and something better to pick up the car faster , as the stock G4s handle is not real handy for that.
Just looking to make refueling more proficient.
Also with the 4mm Kfactory it does not have a milled out area like the stock and the battery will touch the chassis but without any pressure on the pack.
Will this be OK.
Thanks Gary M.
as long as the battery are not under pressure, leave it as it is
#1495
Question for the more experienced guys.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.
#1498
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by razzor
Question for the more experienced guys.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.
#1499
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by razzor
Question for the more experienced guys.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.
What characteristics /response are we looking for in the clutch setup.
What is the guidelines for for the setup and how would each adjustment benefit us.
Sorry if I sound a bit lost or confused ,Im not sure if I am phrasing my question right.
Pros and cons of clutch spring tensions ,material of clutch shoes ,clutch endplay and gap.
To me, Centax is all about when it engage, that determine how strong the engagement and how fast is the car when it engage.
in high bite tract, the car is relatively stable and grip well to the floor, strong engagement will boost the speed up earlier, so the engine should give its power at high rev side. then you use less weight on the flyweight and/or stronger spring or more inner of the spring tension nut
in low bite place, smooth surface and dust cause the tyre to not having much contact. at this condition, strong punch of a high rev engagement will either be wasted by the slip or simply slip the car. at these moemtn I prefer to gradually increase the speed. therefore I wish the clutch to give engine's power at lower speed to prevent spin. the clutch has to engage early by having more wieght on the flyweight and/or softer spring or less turn in of spring tension nut
anyone correct me if I am wrong
#1500
Thanks Carbreaker ,thats the info I am looking for.
Mechanicjon ,got that info.
Hoping someone will share some tuning info with us lesser experienced guys.
We need to know what the benefits are of different setups.
Mechanicjon ,got that info.
Hoping someone will share some tuning info with us lesser experienced guys.
We need to know what the benefits are of different setups.