taz5176

ya, couldnt agree more. i got a couple of headon crashes wif mr. wall as well, only broke the bumper holder & front part of chassis bent, the rest of the car is fine (couldnt believe it!!!). if ur front part of chassis is bent, try not to straighten too much coz another impact on it will break it. juz use a mallet to straighten the bent area juz a little bit back, leaving it slightly bend upwards, it'll still works fine. or can always get a new chassis, tat's my last resort

InitialD

I have measured somewhat roughly on my wife's cooking scales for the mid hollow shaft. I think I misplaced the info somewhere... Anyway, this is what I dug up from the Impulse forum on the now defunct non HPI forum. This one was posted by 2barjones (Gene Koci);

Here is some more info about the hollow mid-shaft and how much weight it saves - I weighed the parts as assemblies - see below.

1) Lightest: Mid-shaft light, stock composite mid-bracket, stock bearings, 16t/24t gears/pully adaptors with 4 steel screws: 28 grams (.99 oz)

2) Stock (kit set-up): Stock shaft, stock composite mid-bracket, stock bearings, 16t/24t gears with 4 steel screws: 30 grams (1.06 oz)

3) Heaviest (Purple Mid-bracket): Stock shaft, purple aluminum mid-bracket, stock bearings, 16t/24t gears with 4 steel screws: 38 grams (1.34 oz)

A note about the test equipment - I used a 500 gram dietetic scale (cheesey!) so I estimate the tolerance on the above measurements is about +/- 2 grams or .07 oz (sorry - upgrading to digital gram scale soon!)

The above post was made before the 705 came out. The info above should be accurate enough for the 705 except that the stock bearings ont he 705 is now the rubber sealed (purple) bearing which is suppose to be alightly lighter.

As for the aluminum or titanium pivot balls, I do not have them. I only have the shortened aluminum pivot balls meant for the new FC steering block which I have not found the need to replace the stock pivot balls with the correct one. The FC steering blocks work fine with the stock steel pivot balls. I'll try to get some weight info once I open the pack. I gather that the shortened aluminum pivot balls are even lighter than the normal aluminum ones.

I found out that the CRC ones Here is what 2barjones mentioned about the titanium pivot balls

The Titanium Pivot Balls by CRC are very nicely made, I put them on my impulse as well. At $64.00 for a set it is a bit expensive as compared to the weight savings.

Stock balls = 4 grams each
CRC titanium balls (part # CLN4042) = 2.5 grams each

The total weight savings is approx. 12 grams (.42 oz) for installation of a full set (8).

While on the subject of weight, the vented disk (part # 801345) saves 2 grams (of rotating mass) over the stock solid brake disk.

I found out myselft that the ones made by CentralRC (http://www.centralrc.co.jp/ which is the Serpent distributor in Japan) that the titanium Pivot Balls that they make are 12.5 grams in total. That's near 20 grams of savings.

As for the ball diffs, 2barjones also gave this bit of information;

#801396 Ball Diff w/#808325 impact bones: 66g (2.32oz)
Gear Diff (rear) w/#801381 alum plan gear set & 801321 pro bones: 52g (1.83oz)

The FPS diff is about 35 grams more than the Ball Diff from what I read from mytsn.

I will also try to get exact weights of the hollow 2 speed shaft meant for the Impulse I modified to fit the 705. On my hands, they felt way lighter and stronger than the stock one.

InitialD

Yeah, I agree. Maybe it's the crappy Phillips screw driver that I have (not Hudy) but at least with the allen screws, there is no distinction on the kind of tools that you use (I use Hudy allens BTW).

When used properly, allen screws never strip and I find that I can tighten and secure the screws on engine mounts even tighter than I can ordinary can with a Phillips screw mount.

Screws that I change to allen type on my Impulse PRO and 705 are as follows;

Front bumper plate holder screws (M4 - 3 pieces)
Engine mounts (M4 - 4 pieces)
Aluminum Mid bearing block on Impulse PRO (M4 - 4 pieces)
Radio Tray Support (misc)

InitialD

It seems there is a new addition to the shocks just released by Serpent. Kinda like the sponges / foams on the NTC3.

http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2880

EVOLUTION

I also have snap on allen(ball tip) drivers but i do use the 1.5mm hudy driver and the quality is pretty good.Allen head screws are less prone to rounding in my opinion if you use ball tip drivers and you also have the advantage of being able to tighten and loosen screws at different angles which is obviously a plus.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Never had a problem with the phillips screws on the Serpent either!

I think replace them with hex is just of matter of preference.


On the wieght issue.......My 705 is barely on the legal limit.

nizee

Got them for about 20 bucks for 12pcs.

nizee

I would just clamp the bent chassis on the vice to straighten it. No knocking with the mallet use and it straigh on.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Hehehehe......half that cost if you split the 12pcs with another Snake Head!!

khyber

Guys I have a radio interference slightly when one or two ppl playing together with me but it is getting out of control during the race when 10 ppl come in together by my side on the driver stand. Surprisingly it runs well when I run by myself. What seems to be the problem ???? Receiver ?? Transmitter??? I have changed everything else other than this two .... Help!!!!!

nizee

Hmmm....the Titanium Pivot ball is so "EXPENSIVE" there, i can't believe it. Anyhow, let me know if you need cheaper ones.

35g higher on that FPS doesn't really matter to what the FPS have to offer!!! They are so smooth rotation and dirt can't really get into the balls compare to the stock diff. Compensate weight with the light alu screws and hollow mid shaft, etc...

BTW, don't you think the stock pivot ball (without shaving it down) on the FC steering going to make your car wider on the front? I have to shave mine a bit to 21.63mm total length to have smaller width and better handling.

nizee

Hmmm...i think u have to change both the receiver and the Transmitter......try borrow from a friend of yours for a day and try it out....

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

InitialD
I've been using fuel tubing between the shock cap and membrane. Works pretty good. Should of kept the foams plugs that came out the Impulse foam bumper from RDLogic.

taz5176

how does the inserts in the membranes work? how does it helps?

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

Seems to give the shocks a smoother action, more consistent. Prevents the shock piston from pushing the memebrane up into the cap and creating an air pocket where air and oil will mix and changing the oil viscocity. That's what I think, could be wrong.
Maybe InitialD has a better explanation.