InitialD

Off the wall chargers are OK when you charge and leave them overnight before a race. But if you need to charge them fast to recharge before a long main, then you need a fast charger. I have no problems with the BX-213 KO charger. They work fine as they charge NiMH and NiCD batteries and they charge 1 to 10 cells. This is good as you can even charge your glowplug driver

The reason why you are getting good mileage on the batteries is because of the analog servos you're using They don't use as much current as the digital counterparts. I use about close to 250 mAH of the receiver pack after I run 3 of the five minute heats plus a little bit of practise here and there. This is with both digital servos on the throttle and steering (Futaba 9451 and KO 2144).

InitialD

Nizee, is that a switch a see beside the throttle servo? I seems it is mounted upside down... Aren't you afraid that the switch will inadvertently be swithed off due to a crash?

nizee

I've the same set-up and it works for me too. I'm using the front male sway bar on the rear. It is not a necessary items but to me it give me adjustability, especially on high bite track. I can adjust how stiff i need it to be or how soft it can be.

nizee

Yes, it is purposely set reverse, so i can swtich it off by just sliding my fingers from the bottom. The way the "ON" positions is towards the rear, meaning if the car move forward, IF it happen to hit something, it is still in the "ON" positions. Anyway, the clerance from the ground is so far apart. All this while i've using it, with some major crash 2~3 cars hitting me, i do not have any problem.

Punisher did the same thing as me but with a smart idea. He had a switch stopper template that he made out of lexan to prevent it from going to "OFF" positions. That works too. Since i'm using a huge and tough JR heli switch, i don't see any problem with that.

nizee

Look at the picture i've sent. Punisher did the same as me. I place a form double sided tape on the side trottle, place my switch there and shrink wrap the whole trottle servo from below to secure it further.

There are some other place you can place your switch. I saw some would place somewhere on the top plate, there are a few place you can put your switch there. You can also do a plug in/out the connector as a swtich (but then you have to hide/secure your connector wire inside in place so it won't move, if not you going to drag the wire on the ground and expose the wire)

paulfitipauldi

Some day D, I'll give it a try to digital servos to see what happend, but by now I'm very pleased with the analogs for my driving skills ,, Are you using 800 mah batteries for your sanake right now??

paulfitipauldi

Tnxs Nizee!! good looking car too!!

I see you have an aluminun pulley for the rear belt, where did you get it?? at Ebay?

InitialD

No, I'm using 750 mAH Sanyo AAA.

InitialD

I think www.gasrccar.com sells them. Look for Impact aluminum pulleys. I believe it is USD 13 per piece.

InitialD

Nizee, nice pic Heheh, it seems that you also use a long screw to secure the shock tower to the rear bearing block

It seems you're using the LSA shock tower. Any difference with the stock ones? It seems more and more people are discarding the rear shock towers (and probably the front too) and go with just the shocks on the bearing blocks which tends to be more horizontal mounting than the shock mountings on the LSA shock tower.

For me, the shock towers (especially the rear) post a dangerous threat to ending your race prematurely. If something hits the shock towers, it cracks and you will get a tweaked car. On the bearing block, you never get this problem that the shock setting will be off.

superk

iTrader: (8)

Hi guys...I have some questions to ask you guys... I have in Impulse and upgraded to pro...and also...have shock tower upgraded...every thing looks almost like the 705 execpt the fule bottle ..upper and lower chassis....I have it all rear ball diff and front one way (lock diff) ok..here are some questions

1st. Is the drive train and gear ratio (pully and all) any difference from the Impulse Pro??

2nd. I'm putting in the centax clutch and I'm not sure about the gearing. I have 16/19 for my pinion. and on the car I have 47/50 ..will this work??

I drive the car on a parking lot race track....the size of 110'x62' aprox. I like to have more punch out of the cornor...and good top speed. (don't have to be the fastest but..fast enough )

3rd. What is the best setup for parking lot race?? asphalt lot.

Thanks to all your help.

InitialD

superk,

Answers to your questions are as below;

1. Yes, the 705 internal drive ratio are the same as the Impulse PRO. On the 705, you have the option to go to a higher internal drive ratio (2.14) by changing some pulleys in the rear which makes for better acceleration especially with the Centax clutch. You can also change the PRO to have higher internal drive ratio like the 705 but this requires more parts to be purchased. It'll be easier since you already have the rear ball diff. If you were still using the rear gear diff, then it will be even more expensive to do it as the rear gear diff pulley does not come in 47T.

2. The 16T/19T will work with the stock 50T/47T. It will mesh but it will not align properly. The official Centax spurs for the 1st gear is 49T, 48T and 47T. The 2nd gear spurs are 44T, 45T and 46T. The Centax pinions are 15T, 16T and 17T for the 1st gear and 18T, 19T and 20T for the 2nd gear.

Since you mentioned that the track you run on is small and technical, the 16T/19T combination may be a little too much for you. You don't get so much acceleration out of the 16T 1st gear pinion. Change it to 15T and you will find that the acceleration is better. For the 2nd gear pinion, 19T is a little high. Change to the smallest 2nd gear pinion which is 18T. You need not to worry about the teeth spread between the pinions and the spurs. To take an extreme example, you can use 15T/19T (4 tooth spread) with 47T/46T spurs and the gears will still mesh correctly.

If you still find that the acceleration is lacking, you can change the internal drive ratio from 2 to 2.14 by changing the side pulley from 18T to 17T, the 23T brake pulley to 22T and the 46T rear ball diff pulley to 47T. You will need to purchase pulley adapters for the 17T and the 22T pulleys if you're using these on the Impulse PRO. If you need the part numbers, please let us know. I think I have them posted in this thread. Have a search and you should be able to find it. Else, just ask

3. Setup? What tires do you run? It depends on a lot of things. I suggest a better way would be to let us know what you are currently running by listing out your car setup and how is the car behaving for you on the track. That way, it would be faster for us to trouble shoot for you and make some constructive advise and suggestions.

Hope that helps.

InitialD

Sorry I should have elaborated further that even though the number of teeth of the pulleys on the 705 and the Impulse PRO are the same (hence the same internal drive ratio), the pulley part numbers are different. The 705 uses the grub screw type of mounting with the help of aluminum pulley adapters which fastens the pulleys on to the shaft better.

nizee

I'm using Sanyo 705mAh (AAA) too.

Paul,
Is there a 800mAh?

nizee

One time i strip the tread when tightening the stock screw. The long screw helps in holding the shock tower even tight. I can also use a nut at the end if i happen to strip the tread again.

The LSA shock tower is not a necessity items. It help during the high bite traction, smooth on power trottling. But not on less bite track!! Very lose. I'll be changing it, that was my last set-up from my last race track.

The only advantage i can see that, or maybe my opinion, is that the mounting point for the shock is at the lower wishbone, instead of the upright. That way, if you hit the wall hard on the rear or someone hit you from the side of the rear, then you'll not break your shock shaft.
Anyway, you can replicate the LSA with the stock shock tower by moving the position upward or using stiffer spring.

Overall conclusion, its good to try but not necessary, keep the stock shock tower.