rc-racer

iTrader: (1)

markp27 - Thanks for the compliments! My photos don't come anywhere near your D1. I am looking to upgrade my camera but haven't decided how much I want to spend yet
Also thanks for the advice for trimming out the body, I was just going to cut front and rear holes. Now I know I should cut the side windows out as well, thanks.

Pit-racer - The body is from HPI. I knew I was going to catch flack for the smoke stacks I have another body I'm painting up for this chassis. When it's done I'll cut the stacks. I'll work on getting more girlie pictures

InitialD - The body isn't as clean as it could be. Plus it's not what I wanted to race with (areodynamicaly) that is why it's the practise body. I am glad you like my photo's

taz5176

i tink i mentioned this b4 tat the arms are not from 950, the shapes are different, notice the reinforced section between them

not sure if tat's 950 adjustable. if u look at ralph's car again, the upper arm looks like a "L" shape
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=8711&psid=2

then if u look at 950 wishbone rear upper right adjustable, looks more like a 705 stock arm
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=7119&psid=2

i tink it's a new arm (hopup) for 705, not from 950. wat do u guys tink?

InitialD

Well, the rear floating mount modification was already done some time back. Just did not post the pic of it. I only did mods on the rear adjustable upper arms.

I believe it's going to be some updates here and there. Don't know if it's going to be a major one though.

TurnNBurn

Hmmm. Hard to say if it's the same part or not, cuz the pic of Ralph's car is kinda distant.... But it does look like the same arm, just cut up to fit in the 705...

You guys think that these are the kind of changes we can expect from the "rumoured" update to the 705 later this year?

pokemon

nice pics and info from everyone...did a new shell and hopefully i'll post it later. nothing fancy compared to the practise shell.....

InitialD

I think so too but it was mentioned by a team serpent driver somewhere that he will post a write up on the things to do to use the 950's adjustable rear upper arms...

But you are right... The upper rear arms on Ralph's car look different from the ones for the 950.

I forgot to mention that I had to cut the upper rear arms quite a bit because it was too long. This made the arms a little weaker by cutting away some support but I was thinking if the MTX-3 rear upper camber links can be that fragile on the car, the upper rear arms that I modded should be OK for the 705.

It would be ideal if the arms could be mounted inner a little like the one on Ralph's car but it involves too much guesswork and uncertainties not to mention dremel work.

InitialD

Ummm, believe me... I tried to cut and put the same way the arm would look like in the picture but it somehow turns out different

Most likely

taz5176

hey d

after u cut the arms, it doesnt look as strong, maybe u can hv a go this weekend & give us a feedback

i almost bought a pair of arms to try but my lhs run out of stock, hehehe, good thing we got D to try out for us

InitialD

Yup, agreed... It doesn't look so strong anymore. But then again, that part does not experience a lot of force compared to the other arms.

Has anybody broken or changed the stock rear upper arms before?

I'll give it a go and see what happens. Wish me luck

markp27

I see dirt!!!!!!!!!!!

markp27

Hi InitialD,

The HPI body is actually too low - I'm down on my lowest stops on the body supports and there is still quite a large gap between the wheel and the wheel arch, but the rear shock post is already touching the rear window - I'll try and get a Protoform at the weekend.

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD

Oh yes... I almost forgot to post my new bodyshell pic See, no dirt right?

markp27

[QUOTE]Originally posted by InitialD
Oh yes... I almost forgot to post my new bodyshell pic See, no dirt right? [/QUOTE

Nice, nice

What's the best way to ensure that the body post holes are in the right position? Do you take off the body posts, put the shell onto the car and then mark the positions of the body posts?

To put the question another way - what are the steps you guys take to ensure the body is well aligned on the body.

Do you guys also use a circle cutter to cut out the wheel wells?

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD

For me, when the body is unpainted, I put it over the car on top of the body post. I make sure left and right wheels are equally spaced and balanced for the front and rear. I mark them with a marker pen on the shell. I'll use the reamer to make the body post holes but I like to do the front (or rear) post first. After the front (or rear) body post holes are made on the shell, I put the body back on and mark the remaining holes. This is because it gives you the chance to revert and change your mounting positions in the rear (or front) body post if you made an error in the body alignment.

After, that, I mark the glow plug hole, the antennae. I mark the center of the wheels with the circular cutter and estimate how much diameter I need for the wheels to clear. After this is done, I trim the whell wells and cut the sides to shape. The wing is also cut. The body is then masked and is spray painted.

I then cut the front and rear holes in the windshields of the car. Small holes using the reamer. Larger holes again using the circular cutter. I also open both the side windows for additional air.

If you paint the body first without making the body mount holes, you can determine the body post alignment by marking the top of the body post with ink and then slowly lower down the bodyshell so that the body post will leave a mark on the inner side of the body shell. I feel this is more difficult to do.

If I tell ya, I'll have to kill ya

Yes, the ones in the pic are cut using a circular cutter

markp27

Ta for the info, but don't kill me!

I do a similar procedure, but I cut both front and back body post holes at the same time - yours is a better idea.

Cheers, Mark.