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Old 08-21-2003, 10:11 PM   #3211
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markp27 - Thanks for the compliments! My photos don't come anywhere near your D1. I am looking to upgrade my camera but haven't decided how much I want to spend yet
Also thanks for the advice for trimming out the body, I was just going to cut front and rear holes. Now I know I should cut the side windows out as well, thanks.

Pit-racer - The body is from HPI. I knew I was going to catch flack for the smoke stacks I have another body I'm painting up for this chassis. When it's done I'll cut the stacks. I'll work on getting more girlie pictures

InitialD - The body isn't as clean as it could be. Plus it's not what I wanted to race with (areodynamicaly) that is why it's the practise body. I am glad you like my photo's
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:15 PM   #3212
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Default Re: Rear Adjustable Upper Arms

i tink i mentioned this b4 tat the arms are not from 950, the shapes are different, notice the reinforced section between them

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That's the 950 adjustable rear uprights (902303 & 902304) that Burch is using.
not sure if tat's 950 adjustable. if u look at ralph's car again, the upper arm looks like a "L" shape
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=8711&psid=2

then if u look at 950 wishbone rear upper right adjustable, looks more like a 705 stock arm
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=7119&psid=2

i tink it's a new arm (hopup) for 705, not from 950. wat do u guys tink?

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

I tried to mod the 950 rear upper adjustable arms (talk about nothing to do ) by myself. I think it involves a lot of cutting. I don't think it will be the same as what Serpent would have instructed us to do. But then again, when I compared the original 950 part against the pic of Ralph's car, the rear upper arms look a little different. In my opinion, if I modded the arms, I still would not get to the same rear arm shape as the one on Ralph's car.

Oh well, the end result is in the picture attached. I only wanted the function of being able to change the rear trackwidth. But the one on Ralph's car ups the ante as it changes the rear suspension geometry too.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:23 PM   #3213
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
Woww!! ,, you really have been working out a lot with your dremel, hehehe!!,, Good Job there!!,, ,, and please let us now,, how it works too!!
Well, the rear floating mount modification was already done some time back. Just did not post the pic of it. I only did mods on the rear adjustable upper arms.

Quote:
Originally posted by paulfitipauldi
with all of these changes ,, I feel something weird is going to happend again!!,, maybe a new King Cobra is going to appear near in the future!!
I believe it's going to be some updates here and there. Don't know if it's going to be a major one though.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:23 PM   #3214
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Hmmm. Hard to say if it's the same part or not, cuz the pic of Ralph's car is kinda distant.... But it does look like the same arm, just cut up to fit in the 705...

You guys think that these are the kind of changes we can expect from the "rumoured" update to the 705 later this year?
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:26 PM   #3215
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nice pics and info from everyone...did a new shell and hopefully i'll post it later. nothing fancy compared to the practise shell.....
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:29 PM   #3216
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Default Re: Re: Rear Adjustable Upper Arms

Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
i tink it's a new arm (hopup) for 705, not from 950. wat do u guys tink?
I think so too but it was mentioned by a team serpent driver somewhere that he will post a write up on the things to do to use the 950's adjustable rear upper arms...

But you are right... The upper rear arms on Ralph's car look different from the ones for the 950.

I forgot to mention that I had to cut the upper rear arms quite a bit because it was too long. This made the arms a little weaker by cutting away some support but I was thinking if the MTX-3 rear upper camber links can be that fragile on the car, the upper rear arms that I modded should be OK for the 705.

It would be ideal if the arms could be mounted inner a little like the one on Ralph's car but it involves too much guesswork and uncertainties not to mention dremel work.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:32 PM   #3217
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Quote:
Originally posted by TurnNBurn
Hmmm. Hard to say if it's the same part or not, cuz the pic of Ralph's car is kinda distant.... But it does look like the same arm, just cut up to fit in the 705...
Ummm, believe me... I tried to cut and put the same way the arm would look like in the picture but it somehow turns out different

Quote:
Originally posted by TurnNBurn
You guys think that these are the kind of changes we can expect from the "rumoured" update to the 705 later this year?
Most likely
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:33 PM   #3218
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Default Re: Re: Re: Rear Adjustable Upper Arms

hey d

after u cut the arms, it doesnt look as strong, maybe u can hv a go this weekend & give us a feedback

i almost bought a pair of arms to try but my lhs run out of stock, hehehe, good thing we got D to try out for us

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think so too but it was mentioned by a team serpent driver somewhere that he will post a write up on the things to do to use the 950's adjustable rear upper arms...

But you are right... The upper rear arms on Ralph's car look different from the ones for the 950.

I forgot to mention that I had to cut the upper rear arms quite a bit because it was too long. This made the arms a little weaker by cutting away some support but I was thinking if the MTX-3 rear upper camber links can be that fragile on the car, the upper rear arms that I modded should be OK for the 705.

It would be ideal if the arms could be mounted inner a little like the one on Ralph's car but it involves too much guesswork and uncertainties not to mention dremel work.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:37 PM   #3219
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Rear Adjustable Upper Arms

Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
after u cut the arms, it doesnt look as strong, maybe u can hv a go this weekend & give us a feedback
Yup, agreed... It doesn't look so strong anymore. But then again, that part does not experience a lot of force compared to the other arms.

Has anybody broken or changed the stock rear upper arms before?

I'll give it a go and see what happens. Wish me luck
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:13 PM   #3220
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Default Re: Rear Adjustable Upper Arms

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Sorry for all those shoddy work with the plastic flashing here and there Like Mark, I was also rushing for the Friday dateline

Ummm, perhaps I should ask Mark to create the "deflashing" filter to be used in conjuction with the current "scrubbing" photoshop filter that I got from Mark
I see dirt!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:18 PM   #3221
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Don't know if it's too low but I believe team drivers run their bodies just about that low. I've not seen them in real life but in the pics, it looks pretty close to that.

Anyway Mark, I believe if you use a Protoform body, the body will be a little higher. HPI shells as far as I can remember can be trimmed pretty low.
Hi InitialD,

The HPI body is actually too low - I'm down on my lowest stops on the body supports and there is still quite a large gap between the wheel and the wheel arch, but the rear shock post is already touching the rear window - I'll try and get a Protoform at the weekend.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:29 PM   #3222
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Default My Bodyshell

Oh yes... I almost forgot to post my new bodyshell pic See, no dirt right?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new_body.jpg (105.9 KB, 83 views)
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:36 PM   #3223
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Default Re: My Bodyshell

[QUOTE]Originally posted by InitialD
Oh yes... I almost forgot to post my new bodyshell pic See, no dirt right? [/QUOTE

Nice, nice

What's the best way to ensure that the body post holes are in the right position? Do you take off the body posts, put the shell onto the car and then mark the positions of the body posts?

To put the question another way - what are the steps you guys take to ensure the body is well aligned on the body.

Do you guys also use a circle cutter to cut out the wheel wells?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:50 PM   #3224
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Default Re: Re: My Bodyshell

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
To put the question another way - what are the steps you guys take to ensure the body is well aligned on the body.
For me, when the body is unpainted, I put it over the car on top of the body post. I make sure left and right wheels are equally spaced and balanced for the front and rear. I mark them with a marker pen on the shell. I'll use the reamer to make the body post holes but I like to do the front (or rear) post first. After the front (or rear) body post holes are made on the shell, I put the body back on and mark the remaining holes. This is because it gives you the chance to revert and change your mounting positions in the rear (or front) body post if you made an error in the body alignment.

After, that, I mark the glow plug hole, the antennae. I mark the center of the wheels with the circular cutter and estimate how much diameter I need for the wheels to clear. After this is done, I trim the whell wells and cut the sides to shape. The wing is also cut. The body is then masked and is spray painted.

I then cut the front and rear holes in the windshields of the car. Small holes using the reamer. Larger holes again using the circular cutter. I also open both the side windows for additional air.

If you paint the body first without making the body mount holes, you can determine the body post alignment by marking the top of the body post with ink and then slowly lower down the bodyshell so that the body post will leave a mark on the inner side of the body shell. I feel this is more difficult to do.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Do you guys also use a circle cutter to cut out the wheel wells?
If I tell ya, I'll have to kill ya

Yes, the ones in the pic are cut using a circular cutter
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Old 08-22-2003, 12:03 AM   #3225
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Ta for the info, but don't kill me!

I do a similar procedure, but I cut both front and back body post holes at the same time - yours is a better idea.

Cheers, Mark.
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