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Old 06-05-2003, 12:55 AM   #1726
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
You are quite right. Hudy do have a 1.5mm hex driver but it doesnt have the ball end. 1.5mm is just to fine already to grind a ball into the end of it.
Yup, but like what nizee mentioned, other manufacturers already have them. Therefore it is not impossible to make one I think.

I think what I'll do is cut the 1.5 mm ball jointed L type allens that I have in my tollbox and get a spare handle to fit it on...
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Old 06-05-2003, 12:59 AM   #1727
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I fouled my first plug in my NovaMega SX-12 SE EV2 today and need to buy a replacement plug. The NovaMega manual just says any standard glow plug, nothing specific, so I was wondering, what brand and type of glow plug should I buy? If it helps, I live in the hot humid climate of South Florida.

Thanks
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Old 06-05-2003, 01:09 AM   #1728
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Originally posted by Accord
I fouled my first plug in my NovaMega SX-12 SE EV2 today and need to buy a replacement plug. The NovaMega manual just says any standard glow plug, nothing specific, so I was wondering, what brand and type of glow plug should I buy? If it helps, I live in the hot humid climate of South Florida.

Thanks
Just look at the previous plug that worked for you... There will be a number there on the side of the plug. Any RB or Novarossi plug with the same numbering will do.

BTW, I think you're running rear exhaust engine (NovaMega SX-12 RE EV1 (2103).
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Old 06-05-2003, 01:32 AM   #1729
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Originally posted by InitialD
Don't think so. If I find one, I'll let you know Yes, I'm still having the Wolfpack version 2 chassis on my Impulse PRO. Super stiff and rigid. I vote it the best chassis ever made... Maybe the titanium one from Hardcore Racing is much better

Yup, the stock chassis (at least the old one) that come with the kit is very weak where the first screw locks the front bulkhead at the front. Let me guess that yours bend at that same spot...

If you have the chance to look into the new batch of 705 kits in the shop, you'll notice that the chassis included now has been beefed up with some aluminum around the once weak spot.

I'll post a pic when I go back home of the differences between the "new" and "old" design chassis. I believe all the new 705 chassis (801185) will have this small improvement included.
Already got punisher sorted with a chassis. I have been working on a 4mm chassis for a couple of days now. Hoping it will be available for selling within 3 weeks.

Check the Yokomo Gt4 thread for the CAD drawings of the chassis I did for the Yokomo. They are on the last page and posted by Nitrodude.
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Old 06-05-2003, 01:58 AM   #1730
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Originally posted by modellor
Already got punisher sorted with a chassis. I have been working on a 4mm chassis for a couple of days now. Hoping it will be available for selling within 3 weeks.

Check the Yokomo Gt4 thread for the CAD drawings of the chassis I did for the Yokomo. They are on the last page and posted by Nitrodude.
Yup, that's cool. I thought you would come in and answer that part of the question.

What's the material construction for the 4mm chassis? 7075? Any lowdown on the design? Similar to the existing Serpent one or any modifications to strengthen and lighten the chassis further?

If it's anything like the Wolfpack design, then it's excellent. It's only 4 mm (in fact 4.2 mm to be exact) at the front and at the important places. The rest of the parts where strength and rigidity is not needed like the chassis sides will be chamfered and milled to lighten the whole chassis.
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:07 AM   #1731
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You know something. I have never actually looked at the Wolfpack products. But we do the same thing. The sides and less stressed areas are all nicely maxhined and chamfered. We chamfer all edges including any holes milled out of the center of the chassis.
We only use 7075. I have been over the 705 with a fine toothpick and amazingly I only found 4 things that we can do to improve areas (Try saying that about an MTX3). Two of them are actually cosmetic and aid only in making the car slightly easier worked on at the front. But we will be making a multipack of rear rollcenter spacers in 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm at the request of a local Team Racer.
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:12 AM   #1732
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I may be mistaken but I don't think Hudy has a 1.5 mm ball hex... I only have the 3 mm ball hex and I find them useful when I take out the shocks from the lower arms.

2 mm ball hex could probably be useful when you mount the rear shocks to the shock tower. By the way I mount them (I don't mount my shocks on shock towers anymore), I do not see a need for the 2 mm ball hex.

2.5 mm ball hex would be usefull to access the cap screws that hold the engine to the engine mount. Usually the engine heatsink gets in the way but then again, I seldom take it out. When the engine needs to go off the engine mounts, that is when I take the heatsink out too and you can access the 2.5 mm cap screws directly. I only access the screws at the bottom of the chassis if I need to take the engine out.

In case nobody knows, the 7 mm socket wrench is actually for the Serpent wheelnuts.
hi initiald
1. do u know wat socket wrench size for the fuel tank nipple?
2. currently, im using white springs for front w/o the shock tower & yellow for rear at the lowest shock tower position. i wanted to mount the rear shocks at the bearing block w/o the shock tower but too soft for yellow, will the blue springs help to stiffen it up? wat springs r u running at the rear btw?

thx
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:17 AM   #1733
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
You know something. I have never actually looked at the Wolfpack products. But we do the same thing. The sides and less stressed areas are all nicely maxhined and chamfered. We chamfer all edges including any holes milled out of the center of the chassis.
We only use 7075. I have been over the 705 with a fine toothpick and amazingly I only found 4 things that we can do to improve areas (Try saying that about an MTX3). Two of them are actually cosmetic and aid only in making the car slightly easier worked on at the front. But we will be making a multipack of rear rollcenter spacers in 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm at the request of a local Team Racer.
Sounds like pretty interesting stuff!!!! Are you producing a product to sell or is it available only for the local guys?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:24 AM   #1734
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Hi Mark,

We are selling to the general public. I personally guarantee that you wont find any part on my car that isnt available to buy. The way I see it is if I am not able to beat someone with an equal car then I just aint going fast enough and I need to practise more.
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:30 AM   #1735
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That's pretty fair!!

I doubt with my current skill level, I'd notice the difference of such a chassis, but simply from a technical point of view it is very interesting that you're doing this.

What does your chassis achieve that the Serpent one doesn't - from a technical point of view, I mean.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:53 AM   #1736
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Our main aim is to achieve a more solid chassis that will not be as easy to bend or snap due to being 4mm. But despite being thicker we will also keep the weight about the same as the stock chassis and hence with the stiffer chassis and same overall weight you will get a better handling car which will respond more crisply to control inputs. But a technique we use is to recess the motor mounting blocks to the same as the stock chassis but not the bulkheads. This effectively lowers the center of gravity of the car as the engine sits lower down in the car improving handling in corners
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Old 06-05-2003, 03:53 AM   #1737
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
You know something. I have never actually looked at the Wolfpack products. But we do the same thing. The sides and less stressed areas are all nicely maxhined and chamfered. We chamfer all edges including any holes milled out of the center of the chassis.
We only use 7075. I have been over the 705 with a fine toothpick and amazingly I only found 4 things that we can do to improve areas (Try saying that about an MTX3). Two of them are actually cosmetic and aid only in making the car slightly easier worked on at the front. But we will be making a multipack of rear rollcenter spacers in 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and 6mm at the request of a local Team Racer.
Cool For the moment count me in. I'll try to see if I can make the numbers. It would also be cool if you could show pictures of the chassis without revealing any details too much

Perhaps you could also throw in some 1 mm shims that you could use to raise the front bulkhead and also at the part in between the carbon graphite radio plate and the aluminum radio tray support to change the front roll center.
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Old 06-05-2003, 04:03 AM   #1738
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Quote:
Originally posted by taz5176
hi initiald
1. do u know wat socket wrench size for the fuel tank nipple?
2. currently, im using white springs for front w/o the shock tower & yellow for rear at the lowest shock tower position. i wanted to mount the rear shocks at the bearing block w/o the shock tower but too soft for yellow, will the blue springs help to stiffen it up? wat springs r u running at the rear btw?

thx
Ummm, I think it would be too expensive to just get a tool for that. I do not have any idea on that. I use the good old pliers. Besides, how many times do you need to take out the brass nipple? Once I screw it in, it remains in there... Until unless the tank breaks and you actually need to install it again

I'm running red springs all around at the moment mounted at the bearing blocks. No shock towers for me. By using white front and rear yellow, what are you trying to achieve on the car? Are you running front diffs or one way? It will give you a lot of stering. Blue springs might help stiffen the car but the jump from white to blue is a little radical. If that's the case, something is not right somewhere in your car setup. The rule of thumb is to make the springs and shock oils the same or about 1 grade difference from the other. Try the red rear springs and see how it goes. Maybe you may want to bump up the front springs to yellow too. Let us know how it goes.
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Old 06-05-2003, 04:07 AM   #1739
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
But a technique we use is to recess the motor mounting blocks to the same as the stock chassis but not the bulkheads. This effectively lowers the center of gravity of the car as the engine sits lower down in the car improving handling in corners
Wouldn't having a different (lowered) engine mount be easier to do and have it achieve the same thing?

Ummm, this looks more like a "How to build a chassis" thread. But anyhow it makes interesting discussion
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Old 06-05-2003, 04:22 AM   #1740
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That is another possibility. This might be a better alternative for someone who prefers not to use the 1mm shim in the front all the time. By recessing the chassis we can automatically build in the 1mm shim in the front and by using a 6mm spacer in the rear we still retain the 7mm spacing and same rollcenter for the Lola shells.
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