Serpent 960....
03-12-2006, 05:40 AM
#841
Originally Posted by C Verano
Doug,
I have only run the Nova based engines but with the 321p I have always had to add a .1 shim to run 30% or I would end up blowing plugs and and ruining the head button.
Maybe Paolo can help you better with the Picco and give you a more definitive answer.
Chris
I have only run the Nova based engines but with the 321p I have always had to add a .1 shim to run 30% or I would end up blowing plugs and and ruining the head button.
Maybe Paolo can help you better with the Picco and give you a more definitive answer.
Chris
In the preventive maintenance category, try to get in the habit of looking at the condition of the conical plug after each run. You can spot and eliminate a lot of potential problems by looking at the plug with a magnifying glass. A dry plug with element turning gray equals too lean, not enough oil in the fuel or not enough head clearance. A plug with a lot of oil residue and a bright shiny element equals too rich, this puts a lot of stress on the con rod and rear main bearing. A plug with a distorted element indicates not enough head clearance or a manifold that is too agressive and wants to suck the element out the exhaust. Worst of all a plug with small metal fragments usually means a bearing or rod is coming apart inside.
What you are looking for is a light caramel color build up on the base of the plug without element distortion and a very fine film of oil on the base of the plug. If you have plugs that are black in color, you can lightly sand or file a small area on the base of the plug to the natural color. Be careful to not damage the element when doing this.
To get a good read on the plug, run several laps at race pace, when you feel you have a good tune bring the car into the pits and have your pit person stop the engine within the first 5 seconds. Doing this should give you a good indication of what is going on inside your engine and can save you from major problems in the future.
03-12-2006, 02:07 PM
#842
Tech Initiate
Wow that was really descriptive! Thanks Doug.
Just wondering does it make any difference if the tank in the 960 is able to rock or not? I dont really see how it would affect the fuel getting to the filter if it couldnt..but im not sure.
Ive lowered it by taking out the spacers but its a bit tight against some servo wires now.
Just wondering does it make any difference if the tank in the 960 is able to rock or not? I dont really see how it would affect the fuel getting to the filter if it couldnt..but im not sure.
Ive lowered it by taking out the spacers but its a bit tight against some servo wires now.
03-12-2006, 04:50 PM
#843
Originally Posted by nefastseven
is there a problem with the original belts?
i've never changed any belt with my mrx3,just if the belt breaks or teeth are missing....
i've never changed any belt with my mrx3,just if the belt breaks or teeth are missing....
03-13-2006, 04:06 AM
#844
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Doug Darby
Has anyone found the need run additional head shims (more than the .3 it comes with) with 30% nitro fuel. From the looks of my piston and head button, it appears that I detonated the heck out of my motor, but I seem to be the only one that has done this. I haven't totally disassembled the motor to be sure it wasn't a bearing, but it sure appears to me to be the classic signs of detonation.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Rob
03-13-2006, 04:09 AM
#845
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Pyramid
Hi Chris,
How to get rid of this (happened to the front also)?.. thx
How to get rid of this (happened to the front also)?.. thx
I haven't yet done it but I've seen it. The Mugen MRX4 Pro belts seem to fit and the few racers I've seen using them like the belts. If you've got a Mugen buddy may you can try a side belt for a few laps.
03-13-2006, 02:19 PM
#846
Some just don't like to take a chance, especially at a larger event. You can always put the higher milage belt back in for practice or club races. Balances out in the end.
Rookie, where you racing this winter? Summer coming soon.....
Rookie, where you racing this winter? Summer coming soon.....
03-13-2006, 08:58 PM
#847
Tech Adept
Tanaka with Serpent?
03-14-2006, 01:02 AM
#848
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by miker2209
Tanaka with Serpent?
03-14-2006, 05:47 AM
#849
looks like him to me . good to see a change
03-14-2006, 07:24 AM
#850
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by going4#1
That's be nice. He's a really good driver I hear. Are you sure that's Tanaka?
03-14-2006, 07:38 AM
#851
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by miker2209
Yes it is........ He already won his debut race with Serpent. Looks like the 960 is performing really well after all.
03-14-2006, 08:16 PM
#852
Originally Posted by captian
looks like him to me . good to see a change
Are you coming to Vegas in April?
Chris
03-14-2006, 08:17 PM
#853
Originally Posted by Doug M
In the preventive maintenance category, try to get in the habit of looking at the condition of the conical plug after each run. You can spot and eliminate a lot of potential problems by looking at the plug with a magnifying glass. A dry plug with element turning gray equals too lean, not enough oil in the fuel or not enough head clearance. A plug with a lot of oil residue and a bright shiny element equals too rich, this puts a lot of stress on the con rod and rear main bearing. A plug with a distorted element indicates not enough head clearance or a manifold that is too agressive and wants to suck the element out the exhaust. Worst of all a plug with small metal fragments usually means a bearing or rod is coming apart inside.
What you are looking for is a light caramel color build up on the base of the plug without element distortion and a very fine film of oil on the base of the plug. If you have plugs that are black in color, you can lightly sand or file a small area on the base of the plug to the natural color. Be careful to not damage the element when doing this.
To get a good read on the plug, run several laps at race pace, when you feel you have a good tune bring the car into the pits and have your pit person stop the engine within the first 5 seconds. Doing this should give you a good indication of what is going on inside your engine and can save you from major problems in the future.
What you are looking for is a light caramel color build up on the base of the plug without element distortion and a very fine film of oil on the base of the plug. If you have plugs that are black in color, you can lightly sand or file a small area on the base of the plug to the natural color. Be careful to not damage the element when doing this.
To get a good read on the plug, run several laps at race pace, when you feel you have a good tune bring the car into the pits and have your pit person stop the engine within the first 5 seconds. Doing this should give you a good indication of what is going on inside your engine and can save you from major problems in the future.
03-14-2006, 08:28 PM
#854
Originally Posted by duneland
Some just don't like to take a chance, especially at a larger event. You can always put the higher milage belt back in for practice or club races. Balances out in the end.
Rookie, where you racing this winter? Summer coming soon.....
Rookie, where you racing this winter? Summer coming soon.....
I have already told you as long as you are running your 1/8th, I will try to follow you....but this time I have WALT and ERIC (both Serpent) to run along side, I can't wait to see the 1/8th gang and give your XR8 a shot at IRP or Leisure....and of course, we will make couple MWS and already thinking about the October National over Hamilton. In between we will have BYRON money race over IRP and Leisure to worry about.....At least, I can finally forget those 1/10th 200mm and stick with the 1/8th (well, I still want to run my 235mm....)
