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Old 03-12-2006, 06:40 AM   #841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Verano
Doug,

I have only run the Nova based engines but with the 321p I have always had to add a .1 shim to run 30% or I would end up blowing plugs and and ruining the head button.

Maybe Paolo can help you better with the Picco and give you a more definitive answer.

Chris
Doug, Chris is right on the money add at least a .1 shim for 30%.

In the preventive maintenance category, try to get in the habit of looking at the condition of the conical plug after each run. You can spot and eliminate a lot of potential problems by looking at the plug with a magnifying glass. A dry plug with element turning gray equals too lean, not enough oil in the fuel or not enough head clearance. A plug with a lot of oil residue and a bright shiny element equals too rich, this puts a lot of stress on the con rod and rear main bearing. A plug with a distorted element indicates not enough head clearance or a manifold that is too agressive and wants to suck the element out the exhaust. Worst of all a plug with small metal fragments usually means a bearing or rod is coming apart inside.

What you are looking for is a light caramel color build up on the base of the plug without element distortion and a very fine film of oil on the base of the plug. If you have plugs that are black in color, you can lightly sand or file a small area on the base of the plug to the natural color. Be careful to not damage the element when doing this.

To get a good read on the plug, run several laps at race pace, when you feel you have a good tune bring the car into the pits and have your pit person stop the engine within the first 5 seconds. Doing this should give you a good indication of what is going on inside your engine and can save you from major problems in the future.
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Old 03-12-2006, 03:07 PM   #842
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Wow that was really descriptive! Thanks Doug.

Just wondering does it make any difference if the tank in the 960 is able to rock or not? I dont really see how it would affect the fuel getting to the filter if it couldnt..but im not sure.
Ive lowered it by taking out the spacers but its a bit tight against some servo wires now.
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Old 03-12-2006, 05:50 PM   #843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nefastseven
is there a problem with the original belts?

i've never changed any belt with my mrx3,just if the belt breaks or teeth are missing....
No there is not a problem. They are just asking about the pro belts. The stock belts are fine, there is just optional belts that can be used that make the drivetrain a little smoother.
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:06 AM   #844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Darby
Has anyone found the need run additional head shims (more than the .3 it comes with) with 30% nitro fuel. From the looks of my piston and head button, it appears that I detonated the heck out of my motor, but I seem to be the only one that has done this. I haven't totally disassembled the motor to be sure it wasn't a bearing, but it sure appears to me to be the classic signs of detonation.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Doug, I'm using O'Donnell 30 percent on 3 JP engines (21RX01, 12FX-03 and 12FX-05) and I use 0.4 mm head clearance on all 3 engines. When using 25 percent I knock it back down to .3 mm. Some have said these two configs are effectively the same but I disagree. Even with .4, the 30% gives me some extra punch. Combined with with a good clutch setup and a good tune, the engine runs well. Downside? Conrod usually wears out a bit faster with 30 percent.

Rob
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:09 AM   #845
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Originally Posted by Pyramid
Hi Chris,

How to get rid of this (happened to the front also)?.. thx

I haven't yet done it but I've seen it. The Mugen MRX4 Pro belts seem to fit and the few racers I've seen using them like the belts. If you've got a Mugen buddy may you can try a side belt for a few laps.
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Old 03-13-2006, 03:19 PM   #846
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Some just don't like to take a chance, especially at a larger event. You can always put the higher milage belt back in for practice or club races. Balances out in the end.

Rookie, where you racing this winter? Summer coming soon.....
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:58 PM   #847
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Tanaka with Serpent?
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Serpent 960....-tanaka.jpg  
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Old 03-14-2006, 02:02 AM   #848
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Originally Posted by miker2209
Tanaka with Serpent?
That's be nice. He's a really good driver I hear. Are you sure that's Tanaka?
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Old 03-14-2006, 06:47 AM   #849
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looks like him to me . good to see a change
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:24 AM   #850
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Originally Posted by going4#1
That's be nice. He's a really good driver I hear. Are you sure that's Tanaka?
Yes it is........ He already won his debut race with Serpent. Looks like the 960 is performing really well after all.
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:38 AM   #851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker2209
Yes it is........ He already won his debut race with Serpent. Looks like the 960 is performing really well after all.
Any car in the hands of those guys is a winner....
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:16 PM   #852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captian
looks like him to me . good to see a change
Captian,

Are you coming to Vegas in April?


Chris
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:17 PM   #853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug M
In the preventive maintenance category, try to get in the habit of looking at the condition of the conical plug after each run. You can spot and eliminate a lot of potential problems by looking at the plug with a magnifying glass. A dry plug with element turning gray equals too lean, not enough oil in the fuel or not enough head clearance. A plug with a lot of oil residue and a bright shiny element equals too rich, this puts a lot of stress on the con rod and rear main bearing. A plug with a distorted element indicates not enough head clearance or a manifold that is too agressive and wants to suck the element out the exhaust. Worst of all a plug with small metal fragments usually means a bearing or rod is coming apart inside.

What you are looking for is a light caramel color build up on the base of the plug without element distortion and a very fine film of oil on the base of the plug. If you have plugs that are black in color, you can lightly sand or file a small area on the base of the plug to the natural color. Be careful to not damage the element when doing this.

To get a good read on the plug, run several laps at race pace, when you feel you have a good tune bring the car into the pits and have your pit person stop the engine within the first 5 seconds. Doing this should give you a good indication of what is going on inside your engine and can save you from major problems in the future.
That's great info Doug.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:28 PM   #854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duneland
Some just don't like to take a chance, especially at a larger event. You can always put the higher milage belt back in for practice or club races. Balances out in the end.

Rookie, where you racing this winter? Summer coming soon.....
Dunland, I was "MIND RACING" the whole winter, spend $500 for a FK05 and options and let her sit inside the box since the beginning of Winter, and now, car is still NIB....bad business decision, thats why I am no electric person, NITRO is more fun, LOL....

I have already told you as long as you are running your 1/8th, I will try to follow you....but this time I have WALT and ERIC (both Serpent) to run along side, I can't wait to see the 1/8th gang and give your XR8 a shot at IRP or Leisure....and of course, we will make couple MWS and already thinking about the October National over Hamilton. In between we will have BYRON money race over IRP and Leisure to worry about.....At least, I can finally forget those 1/10th 200mm and stick with the 1/8th (well, I still want to run my 235mm....)
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Old 03-14-2006, 11:06 PM   #855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker2209
Tanaka with Serpent?
checked source from Japan, Tanaka has got contract with Kawahara's only but not with any car maker, and he is free to drive any brand of car.
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