ALG

J-MAN did you post your set-up
were con I find it?
thanks in advance

J-MAN

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the wait guys but here it is, my copy machine is done so i will have to type it!
Gearing first I ran 48, 17 on the first gear, and 45, 20 on the secound
shocks
40wt in the front with 3 hole pistons, 35 in the rear with 2 hole pistons
I started with blues springs in the front and red in the back but ended up with blues all the way around when the traction came up.
Front shock position was in in the lower mounting spot on the tower.
For the rear i mounted it in the bulkhead position, i tried it in the normal spots but i liked it in this spot the best.
I had the shaved bulkheads on the front and ran the upper front arm in the lowest position, i also had the wide offset steering knuckles on the car as well.
Droop was 1mm in the front and 7mm in the rear.
I ran the roll center in the middle position in the rear, and the upper pivot point in the longest position. The rear body position was in the secound hole from the inside. The rear antiroll bar i had in the outside mounting hole.
2 degrees camber in the front, and three in the rear
1 degree of negative toe in the front, and 2 degrees oftoe positive in the rear
I ran the car short in the front, and had 10mm of the front caster clips from the front of the car. Ackerman number 2 on the set up sheets using the front mounting holes. 254 mm wide in the front and 262 mm in the rear.
I like this set up and i think this will be my base from now on.
I set the ride height at 6mm in the front, and 7mm in the rear.
And ran 35 front and rear, 67 fronts and 74 in the rear.
Let me know if anyone needs anymore info!
Good luck to all!

ALG

Have some question, did you used the WOS steering, #1 left and #2 right or vice versa?
When you say SHAVED Bulkheads, how many mm did you shaved? 1mm 2mm??? This will change front roll center, and if you lower it you will have more camber change.
When you say, I ran the car in front SHORT, you are telling us that is on the shortest position?(wheelbase) I suppose.

Thanks for your infor and will keep you posted how the thing are going.

CIMRI

Hi,

I have some off power steering problem. exspecially in U turns I have a lot of understeer while off power. Here is my set up , did you guys any ideas?

FRONT: Downstop . 1 mm
Shocks: Upper pos.
Spring : Red ( 40w oil)
Trackwidth : 252 mm
Ride high : 7 mm
Camber : 2mm
Caster: 4mm behind upper arm.
Toe: 1 mm
Anti rolbar : Grinded - flat pos.
Upper arm holders: alum. 1 mm lowered vers.
Wos steering blocks: 2. in right / 1. in left. (w. eccentrics installed , the axel is closser to the upper side the blocks)

REAR:
Shocks: On the bulkheads.
Spring : Red ( 40w oil)
Trackwidth : 262 mm
Ride high : 8 mm
Camber : 3.5 mm
Toe: 3 mm
Anti rolbar : Flat pos(lower pos. wide)
Wheelbase : Long
Body : 8 mm Hang on front.- Blitz

thnx

J-MAN

iTrader: (1)

To get even more front traction you can cut off the material were the front graphite plate would mount to, to let the chassis flex more. And get the front bulkheads shaved to were you can mount them 4mm lower than stock! Hope this helps!

CIMRI

j-man,

did you mean this... I found this in a japanes web site

jeff1

please delete

jeff1

I'm running a Vector 98 its still a great car, but is getting hard to find spur gear for this model. I was wondering if I can use 960 parts on
http://www.serpent.com/product/902410/

nigelnuggets

I think he means on the optional chassis, you can trim away more material on the chassis plate itself where the carbon fiber insert plate goes.


The purpose of the trimming on the fr body post mount, is because if you look ever so closely, you will be able to see the bulkhead actually flex out of its natural position when the 2 screws from the sides are tightened. By removing material from the middle, it allows the body mount to spread instead of the bulkheads to move in.

Hope this helps Cimri.

nigelnuggets

For your offpower understeer, maybe you can try running less caster.

and maybe less downstop in the rear. (if the rear end has more uptravel, weight will transfer over to the front of the car which will increase steering.)

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Yes you can....but your best bet is to purchase the LC 2-speed gear box drive shaft as well cause the flat spot (where the set screws are sitting on) with the LC gear box is not the same as the Vector original 2-speed gear box..

You can try the new gear box and dremel the correct flat spot on your exisitng shaft and give that a try.

Also...I know the original centax 1 does work but with the LC gearbox, centax 2 is the right one to use...and it is better

ALG

J-MAN, tried you setting today, and the car worked very good, nice rotation.

Can you please send a picture of what you mean with "cut off the material...."
Thanks for your time

M7H

I think you need to use the drive shaft, because the shaft from the vector is to short....

At the moment I am also going to fit a 950/960 gearbox on a vector, will post my finding this week......

jeff1

I've already upgraded to Centax II. so it will no be a problem
Is that shaft you say?
http://www.serpent.com/product/902430/
thanks for support

jeff1

Hey M7H.. forgot to told you. The Centax II is working like a champ in my Vector.. it has larger bearing and holds up the stress very well.. I have not experienced thrust failure anymore. You and another guy helped me to install it on the Vector a few months ago
We are waiting your teaching how to fit this gearbox on Vector Have luck!