Yes, I mean the amount of play at suspension shaft before the wheels lift off the ground.

All caster clips are position behind the upper arm.

uurrghh....... I can't wait to test it.

Would you like to guess ? do you think the car will be stable or no ?

My guess is that this is the one making the car very unstable on the straights and making high speed turn ins understeer while low speed you would turn in fine...

When you turn to the right for example, the small caster angle makes less optimum wheel contacts to the surface (not enough camber) when the front leans to the left side. With more caster, the contact patch of the wheel increases and you get more steering. Try putting it at neutral or at where the stock setting is. If you insist on running the caster this way, you need more front camber dialed in.

For more advance reading, you can read here which applies to all cars. Good luck.

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asw- you need more rear droop. 4- 5mm would probably be fine. 2mm is not enough.

You're quoting values from the droop gauge... asw is quoting values of the chassis uptravel before the tires leave the ground...

guess I just figured everyone used droop gauges......

Yes!
 

As InitialD said more caster will create more turn in but there is another reason for this. When you turn the wheels it forces the chassie to unload the inside rear wheel which will give the rear less grip at that instant.

Thanks everyone,

I changed upper arm's caster position to middle, so it doesn't lean backwards or forwards too much. I observed the front tyres's contact, the tyres actually have less surface contact at full turn position, but the "dig in" or "bite" angle is much steeper.

Another adjustment is smaller EPA ( end point adjustment of steering servo ) and negative EXP ( exponential ).

About the droop thing, yes I made estimation by measuring the upward chassis movements before the tires lift off.

Pardon me guys..... my first engine cars.

kawahara hop-ups
 

guys, where can i buy kawahara hop-ups for my mtx-3. looks like some hobby shops are already discontinuing these parts since i've been looking for them these past few days. been looking already with online shops but not complete with the hop-ups that i needed. any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks:D ;)

RC champ in Japan, you can mail order through them.

Btw, 3 racing is good enough u know and it's cheaper.

I think mtx3 only need these hop up options:

alluminium 4mm chassis ( very strong but heavier )
alluminium radio plate tower
alluminium center pulley holder for front belts
titanium screws, hopefully longer ones by 2mm and 4mm
alluminium front stabiliser holder

i think one more would be the rear adjustable sway bar.... makes it easier to adjust without having several different tension bars.

Re: kawahara hop-ups
 

I have been bought here
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/
http://shop.the-border.nl

and here

http://www.speedtechrc.com/

asw, you must not run the tyres (english) untrued. The fronts will be too large and it will get worse. Out of the box, Zacs are usually 66mm front and 65mm rear.
I find that 35s are good on low grip so I assume that is the conditions you run.
I would set the ride height to 7.5mm both front and rear on 64mm diameter, then depending on the length of the heat I reduce the front tyre diameter by an amount that will finish the heat at slightly less than the rears.
What I'm trying to say is that the car will be a pig if your front tyres are larger than the rears and it puts too much strain on the drive train.

thanks asw7576 i will try that, i have a bad experience with 3 racing hop-ups with my v-one RR so as much as possible i am avoiding it and you are right it is really much cheaper than the kawahara hop-ups;)

Re: Re: kawahara hop-ups
 

i have been with speedtechrc but cannot find what i'm looking for but i will also try the other two sites that you recommended thank you very much Arushmen:D