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-   -   Mugen MTX-3 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/7666-mugen-mtx-3-a.html)

rjl 07-28-2004 02:15 AM


Originally posted by gonzoY5
The biggest benefit of the 16/19 pulley setup isn't the even tire wear in the sense of "saving" tires. The biggest benefit is that the car keeps the same OD ratio during a run. When your rears wear down faster than the front, If you start with even tire diameter you have a 1.00 OD ratio, by the end of a main, say if your rears have worn 3mm more than the front(or more depending on how long the main is), you have a 1.05 OD ratio. You car will be driving different and actually slower than if it had stayed even. The car will push on sweeping turns, and hook when coming out of a turn unless you're careful. For a new driver this can be difficult, and for a more experienced driver this can make the difference of winning and losing a tight race at the end because your car isn't handling as well as it was in the beginning. Remember, at 1.05 your fronts are now trying to pull the car, and "dragging" the slower spinning rears. Some people say the car drives easier with smaller rears. I say it's because the car is actually driving slower. Slower definitely feels easier. If there was a way to keep the tire wear reasonably even with the stock setup this would be ideal because of less internal drag, but the even wear is key
Now from my experience, with the 16/19 setup and the split, the tires wear at nearly the same rate. Now that 3.5mm spilt isn't just some magic number that someone pulled out of the air. With the 16/19 and a 3.5mm split, you get a 1.00 OD ratio, which means the fronts and rears will spin at the same rate. If the tires wear at the same rate, that means you'll keep your 1.00 ratio, which gives a more CONSISTANT driving car. Which for a beginner is an easier driving car, and for an expert, gives him a sweet handling car to beat the guy who's car changed towards the end of the race.
PHEW...just had to give my two cents. Any thoughts?

It must also be understood that overdriving the front is only of benefit if you start with the fronts smaller than the rears. It changes the front geometry slightly and also the smaller tyre will act harder.
I have seen many trashed belts on Vonerrs because guys didn't run their fronts small enough.

vadn1 07-28-2004 04:58 AM


Originally posted by roadrage
do you have that belt on your mtx3 vad? if so how does it work?
I do race a MTX-3, I have the stock set up at the moment. I will try out the 16/19 set up.

wolfracing 07-28-2004 05:10 AM

Sounds like the goods 16/19.
Is that 16 front 19 rear?
Gives me the irrits with the uneven tyre wear, 3 runs its all over, need new rears.
wolf

gonzoY5 07-28-2004 06:41 AM


It must also be understood that overdriving the front is only of benefit if you start with the fronts smaller than the rears. It changes the front geometry slightly and also the smaller tyre will act harder.
Well that's a given. If you don't true the fronts you get like a 1.07 OD ratio which will cause great stress on the front belts. I've been running with the 16/19 setup with the split for about 5 months and haven't snapped a belt, not even close to it. The ultimate proof for me was when I saw how consistant my lap times were in a main from beginning to end compared to the stock setup. 3.5 to 4mm split is the magic # for me.


Is that 16 front 19 rear?
No, it's 19 front, 16 rear and again, the only way you get the benefit is by truing the fronts(3.5-4mm). If not, it's just as good as driving with the stock setup and the rears worn down.

Profoxcg 07-28-2004 08:43 AM


.....6/19 setup with the split....
What does that mean "with split"?

ok so let me get this staright for everyone else..


19/16 F/R
Smaller belt in required for the side
I still need to cut my front tires 3-4mm smaller than the rears.

otherwiere the conversion doesn work...

not with the stock car, even if I cut my tyres the rears will wear fast regardless.

gonzoY5 07-28-2004 09:13 AM

Correct. With the conversion, If you don't run the split you get a 1.07 OD ratio, which means the fronts are spinning faster than the rears. Which causes drag, and puts much stress no the front belts. By truing the fronts down 3.5mm you get a 1.00 OD ratio, which means even tire rotation, a very neutral setup. I say 3-4mm becuase it gives you ratios to play with. 3mm split gives you like 1.01, 3.5mm gives you like .9998 (close enough to 1.00) and 4mm gives you like .99. SO there's room to play with the ratios, you might be able to tell the difference (at least I can)

As for the stock, I'm not sure how to keep the tire wear reasonably even. I'd like to know how the team guys setup their tires when using the stock pulleys. If they compensate for tire wear or not. You can give like a 2mm split in hopes that the car will handle best at the end of the race when the tires have worn to even instead of having them even at the beginning.

rjl 07-28-2004 02:52 PM

Yea see, I think there is some misconception here. The tyres do not last any longer.

gonzoY5 07-28-2004 03:20 PM

Yeah i was gonna mention that, just couldn't figure out how to explain. There's a little bit of improvement because the tires are working more evenly, but the right way to put is that the tires wear evenly, not "less"

cdelong 07-28-2004 04:22 PM


Originally posted by gonzoY5
Correct. With the conversion, If you don't run the split you get a 1.07 OD ratio, which means the fronts are spinning faster than the rears. Which causes drag, and puts much stress no the front belts. By truing the fronts down 3.5mm you get a 1.00 OD ratio, which means even tire rotation, a very neutral setup. I say 3-4mm becuase it gives you ratios to play with. 3mm split gives you like 1.01, 3.5mm gives you like .9998 (close enough to 1.00) and 4mm gives you like .99. SO there's room to play with the ratios, you might be able to tell the difference (at least I can)

As for the stock, I'm not sure how to keep the tire wear reasonably even. I'd like to know how the team guys setup their tires when using the stock pulleys. If they compensate for tire wear or not. You can give like a 2mm split in hopes that the car will handle best at the end of the race when the tires have worn to even instead of having them even at the beginning.

I bet the tracks the team guy's run on don't wear tires that much during a 30 minute main. Highly sealed and a lot traction compound. I ran at the Mentor MWS series race and hardly lost 1mm front and rear during a 30 minute main. The guy pitting next to me ran the same tires all weekend on his stock MTX-3 and only used 3mm of tire the entire weekend- four 5 minute heats and a 30 minute main with a few practice runs thrown in there. everyone was running roughly 40's + all the way around, which helps on wear also.

Profoxcg 07-28-2004 08:26 PM


Yeah i was gonna mention that, just couldn't figure out how to explain. There's a little bit of improvement because the tires are working more evenly, but the right way to put is that the tires wear evenly, not "less"
as long as... you still cut the fronts 3-4mm smaller

GrandeGixxer 07-28-2004 09:31 PM

so does anyone have the kawahara part number for the belt?

I am going to go for my second race with the mtx-3 on foam tires this weekend. I dont have the 16/19 yet so I am still having lots of rear tire wear.last weekend cost me about 3 mm in about 1 hour of running. so hopefully my outing will be as succesful as last weekend though. the car was freakin stuck. would go anywhere I wanted it to go. had the main won till my reciever batt died:flaming: have fun this weekend everyone and remember to charge those reciever packs.

j240z 07-28-2004 09:36 PM


Originally posted by GrandeGixxer
so does anyone have the kawahara part number for the belt?

I am going to go for my second race with the mtx-3 on foam tires this weekend. I dont have the 16/19 yet so I am still having lots of rear tire wear.last weekend cost me about 3 mm in about 1 hour of running. so hopefully my outing will be as succesful as last weekend though. the car was freakin stuck. would go anywhere I wanted it to go. had the main won till my reciever batt died:flaming: have fun this weekend everyone and remember to charge those reciever packs.

K-785

GrandeGixxer 07-28-2004 09:52 PM

great, thanks.

theRED5 07-29-2004 12:25 AM

It's best to charge the Rx pack often. First thing I do on raceday is set up and charge, just to see how much power is in the pack. Then I charge before the mains, fully, with a peak detecting charger. I noticed a greater drain on the batteries with 2 digital servos, over just running one std. and one digital, too. You'll never make it through a 30 min. main with 2 digitals and no charge before the start.

alucard13 07-29-2004 05:36 AM

confused
 
I built my Prospec and while i was looking it over i noticed that the rear universals barely fit into the, um things with the slits that attach to the rear diff (sorry forgot what they are called). It looks as though they are in there tight, but is the normal? On the MTX-3 they are almost all the way in.


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