Mugen MTX-3
04-30-2004, 11:35 PM
I'm overwhelmed with all the info. Let me just do the driving!
04-30-2004, 11:37 PM
Tech Master
Originally posted by eddiethefish
I'm overwhelmed with all the info. Let me just do the driving!
I'm overwhelmed with all the info. Let me just do the driving!
By the way, my personal opinion, I think the conversion will benefit the most if you were running in a tight technical track.
Last edited by Ah10; 05-01-2004 at 06:30 PM.
04-30-2004, 11:54 PM
oh man... There's 16/17 Conversion already? Doggone it! I did not even try the 16/19 one.
Originally posted by Ah10
kaka nemo, you are going to see me drive tomorrow with the 16/17 conversion hehe!
By the way, my personal opinion, I think the conversion will benefit the most if you were running in a tight technical track.
kaka nemo, you are going to see me drive tomorrow with the 16/17 conversion hehe!
By the way, my personal opinion, I think the conversion will benefit the most if you were running in a tight technical track.
05-01-2004, 01:07 AM
Re: mtx3 or pro spec
Originally posted by gentleman81
i decided to go with the regular mtx 3 kit instead of the pro spec kit, even though the kit is a litmited edition i'm gonna use the extra cash on a kick A$$ engine,
are the nova's being shipped by mugen yet, has anyone seen any prices?
are there any must have or nice to have upgrades for the mtx3?
i decided to go with the regular mtx 3 kit instead of the pro spec kit, even though the kit is a litmited edition i'm gonna use the extra cash on a kick A$$ engine,
are the nova's being shipped by mugen yet, has anyone seen any prices?
are there any must have or nice to have upgrades for the mtx3?
05-01-2004, 08:07 AM
16/17
on a tight technical track tire wear is usually not a problem so why do a conversion? This car handles awesome stock but what ever works for you is fine. But please newbies do not be misled and have people let you think that this car needs to be tinkered with to be fast cause it doesn't, keep it simple. Spend that money on tires and fuel, cause most likely its your driving that needs to be tinkered with
on a tight technical track tire wear is usually not a problem so why do a conversion? This car handles awesome stock but what ever works for you is fine. But please newbies do not be misled and have people let you think that this car needs to be tinkered with to be fast cause it doesn't, keep it simple. Spend that money on tires and fuel, cause most likely its your driving that needs to be tinkered with
05-01-2004, 08:14 AM
Originally posted by sbmon
16/17
on a tight technical track tire wear is usually not a problem so why do a conversion? This car handles awesome stock but what ever works for you is fine. But please newbies do not be misled and have people let you think that this car needs to be tinkered with to be fast cause it doesn't, keep it simple. Spend that money on tires and fuel, cause most likely its your driving that needs to be tinkered with
16/17
on a tight technical track tire wear is usually not a problem so why do a conversion? This car handles awesome stock but what ever works for you is fine. But please newbies do not be misled and have people let you think that this car needs to be tinkered with to be fast cause it doesn't, keep it simple. Spend that money on tires and fuel, cause most likely its your driving that needs to be tinkered with
Last edited by Marcos.J; 05-01-2004 at 12:04 PM.
05-01-2004, 08:45 AM
Originally posted by mckrooz
I run the conversion and noticed that I do save tires with it. The rears don't wear as fast as with the stock pulleys. Like everyone said on here, you gotta true the fronts down.
I run the conversion and noticed that I do save tires with it. The rears don't wear as fast as with the stock pulleys. Like everyone said on here, you gotta true the fronts down.
People are saying that the Kawahara belts do not last as long as the Mugen ones do... Based on that these 16/19 conversion belts are made by Kawahara, are you guys having problems with belt durabilityof those conversio belts?
Wanted to know because I am to buy belts for conversion and would like to have an idea of how many to buy...
cheers....
05-01-2004, 09:31 AM
Bought mine on ebay.....for $6.95 or so....NOT Kawahara...
05-01-2004, 09:57 AM
Same here. $6.95. And they do not last as long as the Mugen belts.
05-01-2004, 10:16 AM
Tech Fanatic
i had some bando belts mugen sent me to test (standard size) as we were snapping front and rears, they did not last as long but did not break!
05-01-2004, 10:18 AM
Black belt very good last long time
JC Penny $9.95
JC Penny $9.95
05-01-2004, 11:47 AM
Hi there...
I was trying to use know the old blue springs in the fronts, after having liked the grey ones... But seems that with the ride height I must use in our bumpy track there is no enough thread in the shock body...
Have you guys had this problem?
How did you solve it? Any spacer between the spring and the collar or rear springs in the fronts?
Thanks in advance....
cheers...
I was trying to use know the old blue springs in the fronts, after having liked the grey ones... But seems that with the ride height I must use in our bumpy track there is no enough thread in the shock body...
Have you guys had this problem?
How did you solve it? Any spacer between the spring and the collar or rear springs in the fronts?
Thanks in advance....
cheers...
Last edited by Bandeira; 05-01-2004 at 12:26 PM.
05-01-2004, 12:00 PM
SPRINGS
Buy REAR springs of the required color & use them up front.....
05-01-2004, 12:18 PM
Re: Throttle Punch and Curve
Originally posted by Bivens
Just another answer from an engineer.....civil
- Throttle Punch is simply a name for causing the throttle to "jump" through the extreme-low end of the range with the addition of any positive throttle input.....effectively, the use of the throttle punch function causes an immediate jump in servo position from idle to some set value (typically maybe 5% to 10%) to attempt to speed up throttle response of the engine by eliminating the use of very-low throttle positions where the air-flow through the carb throat is too low to effectively function......(this function would be more useful on engines that do not come off of idle well or exhibit poor throttle response)
- Throttle Curve simply refers to the relationship between the trigger-movement and the servo-travel. A linear relationship means that the "curve" is a direct relationship between the two.....(ex. 50% trigger = 50% throttle servo response). The curve can be altered in many ways by different radio manufacturers....common methods allow exponential curves which will "sensitize" the response on one-end of the servo's travel while de-sensitizing it on the other end. New methods by some manufacturers allow the curve to be treated in multiple linear parts....(ex. -100%=full brake, 0%=idle, 50%=30%, 70%=50%, 100%=full throttle). Different than exponential because the user can change a point on the relationship without affecting the others.
Just another answer from an engineer.....civil
05-01-2004, 01:12 PM
Tech Initiate
Ok, reasons of using 16-19 conversion. The car will handle better in a tight, high bite track with one-way by using smaller front tires to have a higher roll center(less front roll in tight turn).Also better steering response. (Mugen can't change the front roll center by changing arm position) tire wear is the same. it just an illusion since you have widen the size split, you still keep the rear tire bigger then the front.