Mugen MTX-3
11-30-2002, 07:31 PM
#826
Tech Fanatic
why would we want to adjust roll center ackerman and anti squat what do these adjustmest do for handling in terms everyone could understand
or should i just go with the stock settting since it works so well
or should i just go with the stock settting since it works so well
12-01-2002, 04:33 AM
#827
All those adjustments are there so that you can spend years finding out.
12-01-2002, 07:53 AM
#828
Tech Adept
Servo Horns
Hi Guys,
Did anybodys kit include servo horns?
All the best
Did anybodys kit include servo horns?
All the best
12-01-2002, 08:25 AM
#829
Re: Servo Horns
Originally posted by click, dublin
Hi Guys,
Did anybodys kit include servo horns?
All the best
Hi Guys,
Did anybodys kit include servo horns?
All the best
12-01-2002, 11:49 AM
#830
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by tennessee
Uh no the blocks in the rear are for anti squat and they do change the the angle of the pins
the way you change roll center is by changing the length of the camber rod or moving it to a another hole location or by adding or removing the shims under the stud that the camber link connects to
If you want to confirm this ask or call Robbie @ Mugen Seiki
Uh no the blocks in the rear are for anti squat and they do change the the angle of the pins
the way you change roll center is by changing the length of the camber rod or moving it to a another hole location or by adding or removing the shims under the stud that the camber link connects to
If you want to confirm this ask or call Robbie @ Mugen Seiki
check the set up sheet and measure them. they only raise or lower the pin parralell to the chassis!
12-01-2002, 11:51 AM
#831
Tech Fanatic
Re: Servo Horns
Originally posted by click, dublin
Hi Guys,
Did anybodys kit include servo horns?
All the best
Hi Guys,
Did anybodys kit include servo horns?
All the best
read manual it says use the ones with your radio
12-01-2002, 01:40 PM
#832
Tech Adept
SERIOUS PROBLEMS
HORRAY THE CAR IS BUILT........................BUT.....
.....But, im having serious problems, i have 2 problems
1. well, i put the foams on,and i know i did that right, cause its kinda hard to mess up, and i went to take them off, and i took the nut off, and the wheels will not budge!!!!, they are as if the are glued on!!!, they are not coming off.....so i dont know what to do?? or how this happened
the second, is the more serious of the 2,
2. i have never used a centax clutch, so i dont have the tool, but from the directions, i measured how far i was supposed to screw that one thing on, and when i installed the engine in the car, the clutch does not spin without the flyweel spinning, and then when the piston is at the top of its stroke, the clutch wont spin, and so when i roll the car, the enigne is engaged, so the wheels stop when it gets to the top of the stroke
HELP
.....But, im having serious problems, i have 2 problems
1. well, i put the foams on,and i know i did that right, cause its kinda hard to mess up, and i went to take them off, and i took the nut off, and the wheels will not budge!!!!, they are as if the are glued on!!!, they are not coming off.....so i dont know what to do?? or how this happened
the second, is the more serious of the 2,
2. i have never used a centax clutch, so i dont have the tool, but from the directions, i measured how far i was supposed to screw that one thing on, and when i installed the engine in the car, the clutch does not spin without the flyweel spinning, and then when the piston is at the top of its stroke, the clutch wont spin, and so when i roll the car, the enigne is engaged, so the wheels stop when it gets to the top of the stroke
HELP
12-01-2002, 01:55 PM
#833
Tech Fanatic
ok
1/ you tightened them too tight and have squeezed the plastic, give them a good pull.
2/ you built it wrong, you dont need the tool its only adjusts the engagement point, you can use your fingers or circlip pliers.
undo the bolt at the end if it now spins you have too many shims behind the top hat.
take it apart and try again. you really need some vernier calipers to measure the gaps as your measuring less than 1mm.
it sounds like you have not set the end float of the clutch bell
1/ you tightened them too tight and have squeezed the plastic, give them a good pull.
2/ you built it wrong, you dont need the tool its only adjusts the engagement point, you can use your fingers or circlip pliers.
undo the bolt at the end if it now spins you have too many shims behind the top hat.
take it apart and try again. you really need some vernier calipers to measure the gaps as your measuring less than 1mm.
it sounds like you have not set the end float of the clutch bell
Last edited by Cartman; 12-01-2002 at 01:58 PM.
12-01-2002, 02:05 PM
#834
Oh dear, this is a full blown race car, if you have little experience please purchase this car where you can get help.
I am starting to really enjoy racing the MTX, not quite as fast as my voner was but getting there. The car was stable and quick running 37 front with 40 rears? During the final yesterday I was building a handy lead when I ripped out the front knuckle, bugger!
I am starting to really enjoy racing the MTX, not quite as fast as my voner was but getting there. The car was stable and quick running 37 front with 40 rears? During the final yesterday I was building a handy lead when I ripped out the front knuckle, bugger!
12-01-2002, 02:45 PM
#835
Tech Adept
no no no, i have plenty experience, i raced my mtx-2 for 2 seasons, and am no newb, i just spent some allnighters on this car, so was in a daze while building it, i was up 2 night in a row till 5 in the morning, so now i am regrettuing it, rlj, please dont get the impression that i dont know what i am doing, cause i assure u i do, and just have not ever used a centax clutch, i know what it does, but there is a learning curve.....so dont get the feeling like a pro car is not for me
12-01-2002, 03:08 PM
#836
O.K. The clutch bell should spin freely on the shaft. You will need more shims than are supplied to do it properly.
Use the tapered collet from the kit not the one from the engine, I use the smallest amount of threadlock on the motor shaft thread but that is up to u. Once the shoes are fitted, place the bell on the shaft with the 5x10 bearings in place. If the bell rubs on the clutch use enough shims to prevent the bell contacting the shoe, you should not be able to turn the motor over when you push the bell in and rotate it, this sets the clearance on the inside.
Now the end float has to be set, with the thrust bearing in place on the collared shaft trial fit and test the end play, use shims until the clearance is about .3mm.
rjl
Use the tapered collet from the kit not the one from the engine, I use the smallest amount of threadlock on the motor shaft thread but that is up to u. Once the shoes are fitted, place the bell on the shaft with the 5x10 bearings in place. If the bell rubs on the clutch use enough shims to prevent the bell contacting the shoe, you should not be able to turn the motor over when you push the bell in and rotate it, this sets the clearance on the inside.
Now the end float has to be set, with the thrust bearing in place on the collared shaft trial fit and test the end play, use shims until the clearance is about .3mm.
rjl
12-01-2002, 07:22 PM
#837
MTX-3 is bomb
ok - it's official. This car is the shiznit. I TQ'd nitro by over a lap today and for the first time since I've been racing at the memphis track, nitro TQ was faster than electric modified sedan TQ.
And it took me half the qualifier to figure out how to push the car. And to be honest, I TQ'd over a gaggle of NTC3's 2 of which were driven by drivers who are better than me.
On a tight - technical track the MTX-3 changes direction noticeably quicker than any car I've driven and is SOOO easy to drive. I was about .9 second / lap faster than with V1RR today - but on a bigger, more flowing track the RR will hold it's own as it owned the sweeper at the end of the str8.
It's not as tough as a kyosho though. 3 minutes into the main the rear camber link popped out on a minor side-hit with a ntc3. But amazingly with one wheel hanging out I babied the car around for the rest of the main, a few fast guys lost a lap here and there and the car won the main running 2 secs off the laps I ran at the end of the TQ.
I'm probably keeping my kyosho's for outlaw - but ROAR legal medium track the NTC3 no longer is the car with the stock handling advantage.
On a side-note I was a little over-exuberant on the speed of the car. The MR12 is quick, probably the quickest stock legal engine I've ran - but it's no match for a modified pixie, jp or the STS RS12 mod. But like any racer knows it's not who goes the fastest it's who slows down the least and the MTX3 box-stock makes that job VERRYY EZ!
Job well done Mugen.
And it took me half the qualifier to figure out how to push the car. And to be honest, I TQ'd over a gaggle of NTC3's 2 of which were driven by drivers who are better than me.
On a tight - technical track the MTX-3 changes direction noticeably quicker than any car I've driven and is SOOO easy to drive. I was about .9 second / lap faster than with V1RR today - but on a bigger, more flowing track the RR will hold it's own as it owned the sweeper at the end of the str8.
It's not as tough as a kyosho though. 3 minutes into the main the rear camber link popped out on a minor side-hit with a ntc3. But amazingly with one wheel hanging out I babied the car around for the rest of the main, a few fast guys lost a lap here and there and the car won the main running 2 secs off the laps I ran at the end of the TQ.
I'm probably keeping my kyosho's for outlaw - but ROAR legal medium track the NTC3 no longer is the car with the stock handling advantage.
On a side-note I was a little over-exuberant on the speed of the car. The MR12 is quick, probably the quickest stock legal engine I've ran - but it's no match for a modified pixie, jp or the STS RS12 mod. But like any racer knows it's not who goes the fastest it's who slows down the least and the MTX3 box-stock makes that job VERRYY EZ!
Job well done Mugen.
12-01-2002, 09:33 PM
#838
For the person had the problem with setting the centex clutch, you don't need special tools.
Heres a easy way of seting your clutch, make sure your enbail spins free at all times, if not take apart and shim the enbail until it doe's, and as for the clearence make sure theres a thread and a half showing, this would measure out to be .06mm
Heres a easy way of seting your clutch, make sure your enbail spins free at all times, if not take apart and shim the enbail until it doe's, and as for the clearence make sure theres a thread and a half showing, this would measure out to be .06mm
12-01-2002, 09:35 PM
#839
Wow seems like eveyone is happy with there new car, thats cool.
12-01-2002, 09:38 PM
#840
Originally posted by Nytrochaos
no no no, i have plenty experience, i raced my mtx-2 for 2 seasons, and am no newb, i just spent some allnighters on this car, so was in a daze while building it, i was up 2 night in a row till 5 in the morning, so now i am regrettuing it, rlj, please dont get the impression that i dont know what i am doing, cause i assure u i do, and just have not ever used a centax clutch, i know what it does, but there is a learning curve.....so dont get the feeling like a pro car is not for me
no no no, i have plenty experience, i raced my mtx-2 for 2 seasons, and am no newb, i just spent some allnighters on this car, so was in a daze while building it, i was up 2 night in a row till 5 in the morning, so now i am regrettuing it, rlj, please dont get the impression that i dont know what i am doing, cause i assure u i do, and just have not ever used a centax clutch, i know what it does, but there is a learning curve.....so dont get the feeling like a pro car is not for me
