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Originally posted by alvinm After an afternoon of racing I was cleaning my car and noticed a crack on the knuckle from the bearing across the bottom of steering arm.My friend had a simular crack on his car.No problems with the pillow balls however(a problem I had alot woth the impulse). didnt realise its was broken during the qualifyings...made me wonder why my car handled weird all of a sudden as i keep running wide when doing left turns:rolleyes: :o it was hardly to spot the breakage not until when cleaning the car..:eek: :D |
i prefer not to get light up:sweat:
better check the knuckles tomorrow b4 i go play |
Originally posted by EVOLUTION I actually prefer nitro,i read it has to be heated to about 45C before it will emit vapours that can be ignited,that gives me plenty time to escape.:lol: |
Hmm...
Broke some stuff today.. :( Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. CA'ed it and ran it for what little more I ran today. ( engine acting up, probably an air leak ). Broke the Mugen CVD too. The rest of the broken parts are stuck inside the axle, so ill probably have to drill out the pin to get to them. :(! |
Originally posted by TSR6 Haven't had a problem with mine yet. knock on wood. You guys must be hitting crap hard. I've broken one rear arm, but it was a deserving hit. I caught a wall ( two 2x4's, they aren't forgiving at all, hehe) I even TKO'ed a pan car that was running backwards on the track, and no problems with my car. :D |
Originally posted by Novarossi You jinxed yourself :lol: |
so looks like i am not the only one who's in bad luck today:deathstar
i broke a front universal and lost a diff outdrive, ran a day with 3WD |
Originally posted by Fire so looks like i am not the only one who's in bad luck today:deathstar i broke a front universal and lost a diff outdrive, ran a day with 3WD |
Originally posted by TSR6 Hmm... Broke some stuff today.. :( Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. CA'ed it and ran it for what little more I ran today. ( engine acting up, probably an air leak ). Broke the Mugen CVD too. The rest of the broken parts are stuck inside the axle, so ill probably have to drill out the pin to get to them. :(! It seems i might be the only one who hasn't broken any parts yet,so i'm going to be knocking on steel(wood didn't help TSR6 :lol: ).Where did the CVD crack? Show us some pics of the carnage!!!:blush: |
Originally posted by EVOLUTION LOL! It seems i might be the only one who hasn't broken any parts yet,so i'm going to be knocking on steel(wood didn't help TSR6 :lol: ).Where did the CVD crack? Show us some pics of the carnage!!!:blush: |
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here is my CVD. The upright is just cracked, nothing to see there.
This is the real carnage. :lol: |
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Originally posted by TSR6 Cracked a front upright, pulled the pillowball right through it. Drove in to deep and caught the wall. Broke the Mugen CVD too. :(! I'm using the small one (but I crash very sparsingly, but when I crash, for sure that's big, ugly and makes me to say a big OUCH!). Have tried to use the wide ones? :weird: Saw your carnage, feel sorry for seeing this, but is broken in the same place as mine 3Racing ones. Mine Mugens survived without a problem (touch wood). But gonna to order some spares for the CVD's (bone primarly). Another thing that can make to break the CVD could be the one-way outdrive and the O-rings (remove and try without them). I use the Xray ones (stiffer, lighter and cheaper than Mugen ones). |
Setting the servo-saver on the tight side helps prevent this sorta thing. It helps prevent dogbone popping and CVD breaking by limiting the amount of deflection when the inside wheel/tire hits something. Running the servo-saver super tight is best but it might nessesitate the use of a metal-gear servo though.
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I have also added a steering "stop" by using a longer screw on the outer tierod mounting location. It works but it still need to be a little longer.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...odxtension.jpg |
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