TBR

Thanks Manti

Just stick to stock standard I think dont really use brakes to much any way

kevink2

Yeah I couldn't let go of that car yet... shows you how much I love the Mugen!

The 22T is Mugen pt. no. H0717. I got mine either at Elite Hobbies or Revelation, can't remember. If you saved your Kyosho pinions, their 22T actually meshes better than the Mugen one. The Kyosho gears are a direct fit on the MTX-3 centax. Yokomo gears will thread on the Mugen clutch bell also, but I'm not as sure about the mesh. My bud jwf_franni had been using the Mugen Centax on his GT-4. See ya Sunday...

TBR

Does anyone know if the Kyosho 3d clutch bell can be used instead of the Mugen one? I have a kyosho clutch bell sitting at home and was woundering if it could be used as a spare?

kevink2

Man, the inside is real close in shape but the second gear on the Mugen sits in a slightly different position so if it did fit on the centax, it could cause a meshing problem between 1st and 2nd in conjunction with the motor mount positioning.

TBR

buggar...
Thanks anyway

mitch179

I just got an email back from harmony saying my stuff is on its way ive joined the MTX 3 crew.... now i have to go work more hours to pay it off haha!

oh and a Q that doesnt really have anything to do with the mtx 3. do you people think running a novarossi #6 plug in an RB X12T is ok ? ? i run 20% nitro...

oh and manti. who do i talk to about the tank fix thing ? ? i lost my post back in the 6 pages that appeared in the last 48 hours hehe

Manticore

Before I've got this thing, I think Kawahara was so demanding on their product to give more variety but its not.

It only gives A, B and C same as stock steering horn.

I believe being simple is the best ! I stick with the A position with this shinny thing.

Manticore

Yep, seems the stock rotor last forever !

Manticore

i run #7 plug with 30% and I think it is ok to run your engine with #6 as 20% nitro doesnt draw as much RPM as 30% nitro. however, you need follow the factory instruction on head shim.

Cartman mentioned about how to avoid the tank from leaking. He said around the fuel tank area on the upper deck, there are 2 round edge which could cause fuel tank leakage when crash. you might want to file the round edge by 0.5mm (YES 0.5mm) to give more clearance for the fuel tank when crash.

as for mending of a leaking fuel tank, use a soldering iron to do the job.

RClover

I am using a Nova#6 on my Rody 5 port with 25% nitro and add 1mm head shim. The engine runs stable and no sign of over heating and idle forever...

RClover

first saw the ennetti rotor and like it, but come to think of it i dont brake that much...anyway!
But, after looking at it few more times...i said 'what the heck!' just get it and stop drooling over my PC monitor...
TBR, this rotor is really a piece of 'ART' simply too nice! Just looks like a 'Brembo' on the Porche

Manticore

i would use total 0.5mm shim for the Rody even if you run 25%. a mod motor works harder.

RClover

sorree, i meant i added 0.1mm on top of the stock 0.4mm..
total 0.5mm (2 x coppers + 1 x silver)

PMT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jonathan
[B]PMT

I laid down a small spew on O.D. as well tire split management a while back. They didn't buy it... But I did not do as well a job as you did in selling it either.

Speaking of techical info. Please enlighten me on the following.

Shock positions... as I understand it, the more laid down, the softer and also more progessive. Now..I have only used these diff. pos. to soften or stiffen. What am I missing out on by not using the "progressive" part. I'm thinking less responsive but more mid corner bite??? Please....


****As you say the more laid down the softer (it will feel) and also the more progressive the suspension becomes. A basic way to look at it is if the shock was at a 90 degree angle to the suspension arm i.e. arm is flat and shock is standing straight up. What would happen then is that for every 1mm of arm movement you would get 1mm of shock movement i.e. linear rate. The more you lay the shocks down the more progrssive the suspension movement becomes. Example shock at a 45 deg angle to suspension arm, arm moves 2mm shock moves 1mm . Makes the suspension seem softer as the shock is just moving less than in the first example. However as the arm continues its upward movement the angle to the shock increases and the rate startes to move more toward linear, hence saying progressive. As the arm moves more the suspension (shock) will start to compress more and the rate starts to become more linear i.e. starts to feel stiffer. This is a tuning aid and can be used on bumpy tracks, to get more initial turn in, to avoid/reduce traction rolling etc.





Ackerman... A= less initial and smoother but more throw... C= twitchy but less throw and thus less overall steering??? C felt like the 2 deg of front toe out I ran once in my v1rr. Is it a misconception that more toe out yeilds more steering cuz ulitimately you are getting less throw at the outside wheel... Again...please

******Ackerman, you are correct C enters a turn the hardest, A less turn in but more mid corner and exit steering. B would be in between. Regarding the toe out, more toe out gives less straight line stability, more initial turn in and less exit. Less toe out yields more straight line stability, less initial turn in and more mid and exit steering. Ironicaly the reverse seems to be true with 5th scale!


Droop... less in the front yeilds more on power steering ... But I've read that Salven uses droop to keep tires in constant contact w/ pavement to get on power steering. He can't be wrong....?


******It's a ballance is all that I can say about this one. Also can be used in conjunction with up stops in the rear of cars. Ruel of thumb for me is to set the car up so that you have 3-4mm of suspension down travel from ride height (correct diameter tires, set ride height, allow chasis to raise 3-4mm before tires leave ground). Theretical purpose is to stop the car from trasitioning too much weight from front to rear when accelerating and breaking. Problem is that if you run too much droop in the front your car transitions too much (when accelerating and breaking)and starts to feel lazy and can also push in on power corners. Run to little and you car will not transition enough weight to the rear of the car, under hard acceleration your front tires can leave contact with the track, when this happens no steering. I guess my answere to this one is you will have to try a couple of different settings to find what works best for you and the track that your on.

What's better? Stiffer front spring and say 40's or softer front spring and 45's. Huuummm..

*****This is dependant on the amount of grip and track surface. You allways want to run the hardest tires that you can. The reasoning behind this is then you will have the least amount of tire wear and your car will will not change as much during a main. (less wear=less change in tire dimetes=less change in overdrive ratio=more consistent car).


Lastly...boxers or ....j/k.

*****Boxers.

Thanks in advance. I have more questions later if you don't mind.

***** Not a problem. Post away.

Manticore

Alrighty !