FREAKAH

I was reading another forum(guess which ) and it seems some have the impression that the MTX-3 NEEDS hop-ups. I guess they see a lot of MTX-3's with hop-ups on this forum and automatically think it needs them.


NOT!!


Alright!, I admit it needs ONE hop-up. A $12 aluminum engine brace. I still use the stock dog bones(with the proper length fuel tubing) and the brakes won't bind if built properly. The stock urethane/kevlar drive belt are tough and last a long time but constant abuse from little rocks can kill them prematurely(you aren't bashing with this car are you?).

There are other hop-ups on my car though but these parts are only there to reduce the rotating mass of the drivetrain. It doesn't need it since it's already a light car compared to other cars but every little bit helps and I intended to buy spare parts so the stock parts became spares.

Here's what I have on my MTX-3:

3R alloy engine brace
3R lightened 1st & 2nd gear hubs
3R alloy mid-shaft mount
3R alloy front sway bar mount and bars
3R 4mm graphite shock towers
Square hollow two-speed shaft

Most of these parts were bought impulsively(I was all giddy when I got my car!) and not a "FIX" for a inherent defect.

I have aquired another MTX-3(what does that tell ya non-believers!!:lo and the only hop-up I will get for this car will be the same $12 alloy engine brace.

So, having said all that, what upgrades do YOU think is required for the MTX-3 to make it a reliable and competetive car?(MTX-3 owners only please!)

Corse-R

My advice (probably agrees with others here):

If you're new to this, much probably putting a Rody 5 ports in your car is like giving a knife to a monkey (dangerous for you and dangerous for the rest - don't take me wrong, please). You can ruin it by the simple fact of doing an incorrect carb adjustment - Everyone I've seen adjusts the low-end needle too lean and the engine gets a hard time going too high on temperature.

Rody 5 ports (and other modified engines) are a high power engines and you need to have a grasp doing carb adjustments and pay great attention to it. If plan to practice and later compete my suggestion goes to a little less powerful engine, less sensitive to novice hands on 'how to handle engines'.

I prefeer for practicing one RB X12 'stock' (a 230 model for example) who gives enough power, is reliable and trusty. Later you can bolt anything into your car, but you will have a background that in the past you didn't had and you'll be able to squeeze almost all the power of modified engines.

If you insist on a modified engine for staring and which pipe you may need this is my own suggestions:

For small to medium tracks where you need a lot of grunt and acceleration:
- RB X12 'In line' pipe. You need to drill the stinger I.D up to 5.1mm. If 'In line' model isn't available a X12 pipe with the RB short manifold cut up to measure 102mm is almost the same.
For large tracks where you need to shine at high rpms:
- Novarossi 52604 'In-line' pipe. Drill the stinger too up to 5.1mm.

Manticore

what's wrong with having so much hop ups?

it is your money and you decide to or not to hop up.

Corse-R

When I bought the MTX3 I had a grasp on mugen cars (have an MRX3 which I use routinely to race) and knew that was great car without not much (or none) hop-ups. This is what I have on my car:

3Racing radio plate support.
3Racing engine brace.
3Racing lightweight pulley adaptors.
3Racing lightweight 1st and 2nd housings.
Square hollowed 2speed shaft
Ennetti brake rotor
Mugen teflon brake pads

The two first were for stiffening the rear portion of the chassis (seemed a little weak). The next three were for lightening a little the transmission and the two lasts were for improving the brake on this car (the rotor shines for itself -hollowed and perforated, so don't fade under hard braking action) and doesn't warp as seemed to occur on some 3part stock brake rotor.

Lately I added the last hop-up that is really needed for this car: Front universals.

Probably if you run on a high bite tracks or tweaked your stock chassis (left my own car to a guy for testing and ended on the concrete wall of the backstraight), the 4mm chassis could be fine. Choosen the Mugen one.

Corse-R

Uhm.... what about a MTX3 'Mantigod' edition? then the ones that bought those car doesn't have the need to hop-up it?

shortyboy

the hop-ups that i would consider to make the mtx3 reliable and competative would be:

engine braceUH!
alum. hex hubs:for quick tire changes
4mm front shock tower brace:shocks point in
front universals:dog bone pop outs,but get the really durable ones(i recommend not getting 3R)
thats all in my opnion to make the mtx3 stronger,its regid out of the box but like Corse-R said every lilttle helps.now for the lightening for making quicker responses on throttle:

Ti hollow mid-lay shaft
Ti hollow 2 speed shaft
LW 1st & 2nd gear hubs
LW pulley inserts(weights alost nothing)
LW mugen chassis-if yours is already tweeked
highly recommend Ti pillow balls,super LW-2 Ti pillow balls weight as 1 regualr 1!
and probably Ti screws(try to get high grade ones like Hardcore racing,expensive but worth it,$1 a screw!

thats my honest opinion on what the mtx3 needs to be reliable and TO BE ON TOP!hehehe...peace

ps a pix of my car

shortyboy

hmm...try again

FREAKAH

EXACTLY!!!

But others seem to think that these HOP-UP's are there to fix problems. The stock plastic engine brace isn't a problem(it does it's job nicely) but everybody wants a stiffer car right?

Maybe they are just searching to find faults with the MTX-3 because their car has so much problems .

Did you ever hear of an aftermarket fuel tank and clutch for the MTX-3?

How about a "FIX"?

FREAKAH

I'm all for lookin' good and shiney. !

Especially if your on the podium all the time.

FREAKAH

So when are we going to see that bad boy tearing up the track Shorty?

Cartman

RUBBISH RUBBISH RUBBISH
you do not need anthing other than the kit to make it reliable!!! and a stock car can still win!!!
the options are nice but NOT a necesity!!

shortyboy

i raced it this past race,my setup wan't dialed in and i forgot to change the front diff oil.i was running 10k at the time,now im running 30k and it handles like a dream,now i need a new body and some new tires.then ill see what this bad boy can do!hehehe.i very impressed with how my setup is right now,rather than the stock setup with foams!my worst nightmare!i might make it to the mothers day race but im supposed to test drive a car that im getting(944 turbo) and thats right after my senior prom!that is going to be a hectec weekend.

Cartman

i have posted a fix for the fuel tank a few pages ago!

FREAKAH

FREAKAH

I looked at my car and I saw what you was talking about. A Dremel or a file would qualify as a no-cost fix right?