For the motor saver you must get the .21 size.

Also, as a piggyback to stefan's post you can also use permatex sealent on your diff. It will be cheap at any auto parts store and works great.

The brake system is the only flaw on the car. I don't know why mugen didn't just use the mrx3 style linkage to get the arm clear of the spur and you will have to spend a LOT of time getting the drag gone. The thing that worked best for me was filing the stop on the brake plate like someone mentioned back at the start of this thread.

Has anyone tried the pen springs between the brake pads?

patelladragger, what do you mean filing the brake stop, the 2 pins you hammer through the chassis?

btw, the one I'm confused though is that there's a 15mm and 16mm for .21... don't know which one

I don't if anybody tried the fuel tubing between pads also

no, the 2 pins you bend slightly to give the brakes more room to open. I'm talking about the plastic notch on the back of the brake bracket that the left brake pad rides against. I guess I just misused the term "stop" huh? :lol:

i have the lightened brake discs from justrc and they did seem to be slightly thinner

FYI I weighed the osaka 1st and second gear housings and they are no lighter than stock. Waste of money there. The square Ti mid shaft is a few grams lighter though - haven't got hold of the 2-speed shaft to weigh. The pulley adapters are maybe 3/4 gram lighter than stock.

Jason, didnt you try the springs between the brakes? how did that work?

I used the spring trick on my brakes. It seems to work. the trick is to get the springs the right size. If they are too long, they will put too much pressure causing more binding problems. Give it a shot, it worked great for me.

Is the disk you're talking about the ones that appear on this photo? If it's the case is real finely crafted and effective.

Regarding the small drag you're noticing I finished it installing the teflon brake pads and now I have a better braking and more progressive.

Get a new paper seal and apply to both sides a light coat of shoegoo or clear silicone, let dry completely and install, much probably your leaking problems are gone. BTW: Check for any present burr on the faces of the diff that prevents a good seal, mine took a good sweat making it leak-proof.

i have not tried springs in between pads

i have a spring on the other side of the brake pull so that brake fully disengages

i have hollow 2 speed shaft feels much lighter than stock

i have first and second gear housings from kawahara not much difference from stock look to be same as osaka brand

the brake discs were a slight amount lighter almost unmeasurable on my scale

i have aluminum mid shaft and it was nearly 1/3 weight of original

i have the lightened pulley adapters and i thought i measured a substantial weight difference (something like 2 originals weigh the same as all 3 lightened ones)

but add it all up and take into account it is rotating mass it must make a difference no matter how big or small

Corse-R, yes, that's the one. How long did it took you to do that? does it make a noticable difference?

btw, what paper seal? I saw the optional teflon pad on speedtech. Is this part thinner but better on brakes?

I didn't see any leaks yet.... can't wait to test and see. see the silicon I have to put into this thing? (attached photo on previous page)

Jason is right, they all add up.
The Osaka light weight housings should be lighter than stock. i will confirm it soon. I have a very accurate electronic balance myself. I have weighted almost every single one of the drivetrain options.

I saved around 24grams by using the following:
Team Osaka AL mid shaft
Square 2speed shaft
3racing light weight pulley adaptors (3)
3racing light weight brake disc (2)
3racing light weight housing (2)
3racing light weight flywheel

not counting AIP solid axle (lighter than diff internals but not sure how much)

24grams is around 20-25% of total drive weight

JustRC
;)

Re: Re: hard time starting my engine..
 

There are a few starterbox by Team Magic, you are refering to the one that is light grey in color?

Isn't made by me, is made by an italian manufacturer (PM me if want more info about those). Is slightly lighter than the Kawa or the Mugen ones but looks good and performs better (in fact is designed to stop the MRX3 who is almost 1Kg heavier).

The teflon pads are different on the braking action (more docile and better feel). Used first time on the MTX3 (on the 1/8 scale I use the ferodo ones).

Re: Re: Re: hard time starting my engine..
 

Yep, that's the model (is capable of starting Off-road cars). Haven't tested the Alpha model (smaller one). But if your problem is the low power of the electric motors, then a quick swap for a pair of 550 size motors could be beneficial.

there should be a paper gasket! between the two halves