InitialD

Have you tried running lower shores like 35? I've heard that foams can be used on cement surface provided they are soft.

If the softer foams don't cut it, then rubber slicks are all you need on a cement track that has a dusty surface.

JUN

On the subject of cvds,i've always run them on my cars.Practically they should be better then dogbones due to the smooth rotation of them while steering and under suspension changes.Not a large enough advantage maybe to show on lap times but good enough to keep my mechanical mind happy.

darthkir

Hi guys!

I just assembled my MTX3. Before I go and break it in, here are a few question that I need answers. Hope you guys can help:

1. What is the right way to assemble the front sway bar? According to the manual, the flat side of the bars should face upward. But my friends with a Trinity said the correct way is that the flat side should face outward.

2. Do I need to screw tight the rear sway bar or let it loose?

3. My front diffs is leaking fluid. I already changed the screw, before that it was worse. Any solution?

4. I normally run foam tyres. I would like to buy some rubber tyres (sorex). Temp here is around 30-32 degree celsius. I would like to buy two sets; one for morning when the temp is around 26-30 and one for the hotter noon 30-33. What combination of tyres and inserts will suit the MTX3?

I really hope you guys could help. Appreciate it

justrc

AIP MTX-3 Solid Axle available this coming week!
Limited Quantity!
Check out the prototype picture!

Thank You

JustRC

Corse-R

The front sway bar on stock adjustment is at 0 degress (parallel to the ground) or as your friends said, with the flat side facing upwards.

The grub screws that keeps rear sway bar on place shouldn't touch it, if touches they bend and you can get weird handling. The screw should be screwed up to a point that is near to touch but don't touch

If you want to run your nitro with rubbers for me is a no-no. MTX3 was designed for running foams, but anyway. Compound selection depends of the conditions on your track. If have decent grip much probably you find a Sorex 28 too soft and will probably wear a lot and blister. My bets are for a Sorex 32 with 'A' type Medium (the higher one) insert from sorex. If is too soft, go for a 36 compound with the same inserts.

darthkir

Thanks.

That's the stock setup. In your opinion, which one is the better setup; the stock or the one with the flat side facing outwards?

modellor

In an ideal racing world the bars facing outward is the best. This is the hardest setting and if you are on a smooth track you want to be running as hard as possible.

Start with a 45deg angle and work from there. You will know by the amount of push or oversteer which way to go from that point.

darthkir

Thanks man. I'll try that.

shortyboy

my front diff. is leaking also,its been like that ever since i got the car.please help

FREAKAH

Take the diff apart and clean the mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply a fairly thin film of silicone sealant to both sides of a new gasket and let it skin(dry) for three minutes and then reassemble making sure you gradually tighten the screws in a cross pattern.

I initially assembled my diff without silicone sealer and it leaked just sitting. Reassembled it with silicone and now the leak is gone even after two race days. I should have learned when that happened to my MTX2 but..................

BTW, you going race dat ting or wat shortyboy?

VenomWorldOrder

do i have to do anything to the rear diff so it doesn't leak?

i just built it according to the manual.

shortyboy

hmm...maybe thats why.i never let the air sealent sit for a while.ill try it.yes i'll be racing it this coming sunday(hopefully).im awaiting the payment for my mt12 turbo(selling it to get a 5port.either a sirio,pixi,or rb)rex pipe is coming in sometime this week.my set is rubber tires.anyone got any good all around setup for rubber tires?thanx

jason102276

sparsky i wish i had your luck the first time i broke a mugen universal i wasnt surprised i really smashed the board and it was cold like 40F

yesterday it didnt seem like that hard of a hit and it was 60F

i am going to try something and if it doesnt work for me then i will get dogbones from mtx2

i have built diffs with no silicone sealer that didnt leak but the trick is to make sure the gaskets and surfaces are completely clean and dry its just easier to put some silicone on and overfilling the diffs also makes them leak the fluid should only come to the top of the pins

as far as swaybar the angle effects the hardness of the sway bar having the flats horizontal with the ground is softest and vertical is hardest

kevink2

Robbie C. gives us a race update from Crystal Park yesterday! How'd it go?

JUN

You shouldn't need any sealant if you have a new gasket and the diff parts are clean.If you are using sealant to stop it leaking it means the gasket isn't doing its job and the sealant is compensating for the gaps where the oil is trying to leak out.I know on the mtx2 diffs there was a problem with the gasket not getting enough even pressure put on it cause the holes where the screws went through weren't large enough.I'm not sure if this is a problem on the mtx3 diffs but you could check it.Also on the mtx2 diffs they could leak out of the side if you forgot to put grease on the outdrives,mugen sticky grease is perfect for that job.