Mugen MTX-3
08-07-2006, 07:45 PM
Your two speed adaptor is grooved. It happens when the adaptor is worn or the ball tension between the shoe and adaptor isnt set right.
You need to replace the adaptor to prevent this from recurring.
You need to replace the adaptor to prevent this from recurring.
08-07-2006, 07:54 PM
2 Speed stuck
The same happened to mine, and I fixed just like I described. I would try that before spending any unnecessary money 
08-07-2006, 11:06 PM
If you are on a budget you could ,as an alternative, do away with the set screw + ball and replace it with a longer set screw. The longer set screw will assume the balls rolling action (minus the roll) when the clutch kicks in the set screw stops the adaptor from over roling. 4x8 set screw I believe.
I have since machined a hard nylon adaptor in replacement of the steel unit and havent had that problem ever since.
I have since machined a hard nylon adaptor in replacement of the steel unit and havent had that problem ever since.
08-07-2006, 11:27 PM
Do what Nosram said. I started setting up my 2 speed shoes with a nice gap between them setting them up similar to the way he described. I started doing that at last years Great Lakes Challenge and since then they have never locked up again.
08-08-2006, 01:48 AM
Tech Initiate
thanks Nosram and the other guys that work and all is well in the world again cheers
cheers
08-08-2006, 03:45 AM
Originally Posted by dick dastardly
sorry if iam asking a question thats been asked before. done a search but could not find what iam looking for.i had done a few repairs and took it over the carpark for a test run( not the best place but the tracks an hour away and i want to see if the repairs were ok)
had it running fine for about 10 mins and was about to pack it up, happy the work i had done was ok.
i was nearly at a stand still and the thing just reved high and drove right into a wall
was only a few feet so it did not get upto speed and after looking it over i cant see no damage
well apart from the wheels only go clockwise when they used to go both ways, so i took the gears of and i guess what is the clutch shoe? is stuck in its housing in an open position where it is normaly closed ie no gap and is not stuck in its housing(check pic please)
is this broke??
if so wat do i need too replace, or is there a way to get it closed again???
iam thinking its stuck in second or something so would running it again fast enough for 2nd to kick in,do the trick, will it go back to 1st getting it back to normal???
please advice asap as i wanted to goto the track tomorrow but i dont now wats going on
cheers for your replys
Here is my tips for MTX 3 & 4 users: Next time around, buy MTX4 2 speed clutch shoes and spring unit. Don't use the ball, instead use longer screws M3x10mm or 8mm. I'm still using the same clutch after the 1st one broke off similar like yours.
08-08-2006, 11:36 AM
Tech Initiate
ok guys thanks for all your help 
i treid this and it worked so i think its ok well the shoe is back how it normally is, have not run the car to test changing but i guess it should be cool.will take your advice on adjusting it still...
thanks again for your replys iam a newbie and would be fucked if it was not for guys like you taking the time to help peeps out
It's an easy fix. On the shaft that the shoes ride on there is two flat spots. If you hold the shoes and turn the center it will click back in place. Now the fix is to turn the setscrews in the center of the shoes till you just see a gap in between the two. Then back the setscrew out till the gap just closes. What happens is if not kept in adjustment the ball gets wedged in between the shaft and keeps it locked in second. Hope this helps!
i treid this and it worked so i think its ok well the shoe is back how it normally is, have not run the car to test changing but i guess it should be cool.will take your advice on adjusting it still...thanks again for your replys iam a newbie and would be fucked if it was not for guys like you taking the time to help peeps out
It's an easy fix. On the shaft that the shoes ride on there is two flat spots. If you hold the shoes and turn the center it will click back in place. Now the fix is to turn the setscrews in the center of the shoes till you just see a gap in between the two. Then back the setscrew out till the gap just closes. What happens is if not kept in adjustment the ball gets wedged in between the shaft and keeps it locked in second. Hope this helps!
08-09-2006, 01:11 AM
Glad that you can remove the 2speed clutch harmless way.
08-09-2006, 01:55 AM
How many litres does it take before this usually happens using a top end engine?
Cheers
Cheers
08-09-2006, 02:16 AM
Originally Posted by hav_lova
How many litres does it take before this usually happens using a top end engine?
Cheers
Cheers
08-09-2006, 03:01 AM
i should be right i guess, as far as i know mine slips a little
08-09-2006, 04:07 AM
Originally Posted by hav_lova
How many litres does it take before this usually happens using a top end engine?
Cheers
Cheers
08-11-2006, 07:27 PM
rear end loose
it has been a challenge for me to get the rear end of my mtx3 to hook up for a while. i love te ca and i have always wrote it off as me just being a rookie at setup. at the end of the back stretch on or off throttle my car seems to break loose in the rear and want to come around. i an running the one way but i am sure this isnt the problem. i guess i have too much weight transfer front the rear to the front of my car but i am unsure of what to do. droop, angles, ???? im not sure
it also does this during normal cornering sometimes, i have just got used to correcting it?
it also does this during normal cornering sometimes, i have just got used to correcting it?
08-11-2006, 07:40 PM
Firstly, are you under brakes when the rear end breaks loose? If so, could just be a tight brake setup, most prefer a drag type setup.
Sounds like the problem could be weight transfer, to limit this, you need to limit the rear droop. The amount of rear droop is like the amount of weight your allowing the car to transfer off power. So for loose corner entry, you have too much weight going forward, giving alot of front grip, and less rear grip. So you want to limit the amount of rear droop. Check out the setups of the mugen drivers off the mugen site, and adjust from there. Personally i go for as little transfer as possible to the front. Ive been running with 2mm rear droop (cant remember what most setups use?)
Likewise, if you get understeer out of a corner, that means when u hit the power, the weight is transfering to the rear, giving too much rear grip and less front grip to steer out of the corner, so again you limit the front droop so the weight stays further forward on corner exit.
Only other thing id check is how much rear toe you have. What are you running? from memory, Mike S's setup called for around 3 deg toe in which seemed like alot but it works awesome for my Prospec. HTH.
Sounds like the problem could be weight transfer, to limit this, you need to limit the rear droop. The amount of rear droop is like the amount of weight your allowing the car to transfer off power. So for loose corner entry, you have too much weight going forward, giving alot of front grip, and less rear grip. So you want to limit the amount of rear droop. Check out the setups of the mugen drivers off the mugen site, and adjust from there. Personally i go for as little transfer as possible to the front. Ive been running with 2mm rear droop (cant remember what most setups use?)
Likewise, if you get understeer out of a corner, that means when u hit the power, the weight is transfering to the rear, giving too much rear grip and less front grip to steer out of the corner, so again you limit the front droop so the weight stays further forward on corner exit.
Only other thing id check is how much rear toe you have. What are you running? from memory, Mike S's setup called for around 3 deg toe in which seemed like alot but it works awesome for my Prospec. HTH.
08-11-2006, 07:46 PM
i will check tomorrow and see what i get. it sounds very much like tha may be the issue!