Mugen MTX-3
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
I can't even view this thread with my kids around anymore...
Originally Posted by asw7576
I've been using this idea about 5 months. I haven't replace the clutch since new. Periodical 1 month check is necessary to save TO233 from slip damage.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
How do you know the car isn't a pile of crap?
I'd wait and see how it turns out, how other people review the car and buy from there if I need it.
If it's not THAT much better, I see no reason to get it.
Tech Initiate
agreed.... I would wait till the factory guys and the let the other work the tweeks out the car before switching over..... stick with the 3... you know its a good racing machine.....
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
A big HELL YEA to that.
LOL this thread is crazy!
LOL this thread is crazy!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Originally Posted by edracer1
I have had this problem with the two-speed shoes sticking or binding in the housing and posted this problem on the mtx-4 thread, but got no response and so I asked one of the local mugen sponsored drivers for a fix but he said had has never had any problems with it sticking but he did offer to Build and Give me a two-speed, he's a nice guy and always will help when asked. BUT I am glad to see your fix to this problem and I will give it a try without the ball and the longer set-screw. I realize I should have checked the set-screw more than never but I'm still learning.
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
And No way I miss MTX4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Good to see some ppl staying with their cars. All or most of the people at the track plan to jump to the 4 although their 3's are kickin butt all ready. Eh, thats the hobby for ya.
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
I am sticking with the 3 as well....even though the 4 looks like a great car, I am fine to be a version behind makes maintenance a little cheaper
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
my car is driving better everytime i go to the track but an ongoing issue has been if i get on the steering to much to try and whip through a corner or curve the rear end breaks loose. from factory settings what changes would u make. i run both sway bars at the softest settings. and i have blue, dark blue, and purple springs to go with the stock oils.
should i get thinner oils to increase reaction of the suspension?
i usually run 40s up front and 37s in the rear, with a 5mm front height and 6mm rear. and all my camber and toe settings are close to stock.
should i get thinner oils to increase reaction of the suspension?
i usually run 40s up front and 37s in the rear, with a 5mm front height and 6mm rear. and all my camber and toe settings are close to stock.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by gentleman81
my car is driving better everytime i go to the track but an ongoing issue has been if i get on the steering to much to try and whip through a corner or curve the rear end breaks loose. from factory settings what changes would u make. i run both sway bars at the softest settings. and i have blue, dark blue, and purple springs to go with the stock oils.
should i get thinner oils to increase reaction of the suspension?
i usually run 40s up front and 37s in the rear, with a 5mm front height and 6mm rear. and all my camber and toe settings are close to stock.
should i get thinner oils to increase reaction of the suspension?
i usually run 40s up front and 37s in the rear, with a 5mm front height and 6mm rear. and all my camber and toe settings are close to stock.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by ira
Try to use the B blocks in the rear mounts, that seems to help if the traction is low, and add shims to the rear camber link.
When you add shims to the rear camber link you loose traction! What is the rear toe of the car? In parking lots I run 35 front and 37 rears, I like steering! It also keeps the tire wear even front to back.
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
When you add shims to the rear camber link you loose traction! What is the rear toe of the car? In parking lots I run 35 front and 37 rears, I like steering! It also keeps the tire wear even front to back.
BTW, During race today, my car took high speed long corner with 2 or 3 times "hooked" incidents. The car wants to turn at the sweeper but the rear tires lose traction making it hooked. This was happened everytime I off the throttle too fast, and on throttle to quick. Is it bottom out issue ? My rear spring is kind of soft.