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Old 08-26-2005, 01:47 PM   #15796
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I can't even view this thread with my kids around anymore...
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:49 PM   #15797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I've been using this idea about 5 months. I haven't replace the clutch since new. Periodical 1 month check is necessary to save TO233 from slip damage.
I have had this problem with the two-speed shoes sticking or binding in the housing and posted this problem on the mtx-4 thread, but got no response and so I asked one of the local mugen sponsored drivers for a fix but he said had has never had any problems with it sticking but he did offer to Build and Give me a two-speed, he's a nice guy and always will help when asked. BUT I am glad to see your fix to this problem and I will give it a try without the ball and the longer set-screw. I realize I should have checked the set-screw more than never but I'm still learning.
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:58 PM   #15798
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Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:25 PM   #15799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
No way, not for me.

How do you know the car isn't a pile of crap?

I'd wait and see how it turns out, how other people review the car and buy from there if I need it.

If it's not THAT much better, I see no reason to get it.
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:07 PM   #15800
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agreed.... I would wait till the factory guys and the let the other work the tweeks out the car before switching over..... stick with the 3... you know its a good racing machine.....
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:52 PM   #15801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
Good....another cheap back-up chassis for me. I had a pro before they came out with a "pro". Like a lot of people, I just ponied up some extra cash for all the prefferred hop-ups. I could bang my head seeing how much cheaper it may have been to wait for the pro-spec, but that wasn't an option at the time so why cry about it I believe I'll stick with the 3. From what I have seen of the 4, it's not that much different from what the "pro-spec" has to offer. Kind of the same thing going to happen with the M11's and the M8's. I don't see much advantage to that either unless you like to set 400 profiles into your radio and think that you have the Jedi reflexes you need to notice the "increased" response time .
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:54 PM   #15802
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A big HELL YEA to that.

LOL this thread is crazy!
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Old 08-26-2005, 11:53 PM   #15803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edracer1
I have had this problem with the two-speed shoes sticking or binding in the housing and posted this problem on the mtx-4 thread, but got no response and so I asked one of the local mugen sponsored drivers for a fix but he said had has never had any problems with it sticking but he did offer to Build and Give me a two-speed, he's a nice guy and always will help when asked. BUT I am glad to see your fix to this problem and I will give it a try without the ball and the longer set-screw. I realize I should have checked the set-screw more than never but I'm still learning.
Here is the way to fix this problem without using any other parts. Spread the two shoes as much as possible without it dragging on the 2 speed housing. Evenly (both sides) continue to tighten the center set screw in the 2 speed shoes. Just make sure the shoes don't drag on the housing. This will keep the 2 speed adapter (the center metal piece) from being able to turn inside the shoes. It will also make the shifting smoother as the shoes will not have to move very far and therefore they will not hit as hard.
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Old 08-26-2005, 11:56 PM   #15804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Is everyone gonna jump to MTX4 or stay with their 3's for the moment? My friend wants to leave his 3 and jump on the 4 just to feel "like a pro". If the move will be the 4, there are gonna be a ton of mtx3s on ebay.
No way I sell my MTX3. The car is so well build and easy to drive.

And No way I miss MTX4
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:33 AM   #15805
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Good to see some ppl staying with their cars. All or most of the people at the track plan to jump to the 4 although their 3's are kickin butt all ready. Eh, thats the hobby for ya.
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:45 AM   #15806
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I am sticking with the 3 as well....even though the 4 looks like a great car, I am fine to be a version behind makes maintenance a little cheaper
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Old 08-27-2005, 10:13 PM   #15807
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my car is driving better everytime i go to the track but an ongoing issue has been if i get on the steering to much to try and whip through a corner or curve the rear end breaks loose. from factory settings what changes would u make. i run both sway bars at the softest settings. and i have blue, dark blue, and purple springs to go with the stock oils.

should i get thinner oils to increase reaction of the suspension?

i usually run 40s up front and 37s in the rear, with a 5mm front height and 6mm rear. and all my camber and toe settings are close to stock.
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Old 08-27-2005, 10:27 PM   #15808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman81
my car is driving better everytime i go to the track but an ongoing issue has been if i get on the steering to much to try and whip through a corner or curve the rear end breaks loose. from factory settings what changes would u make. i run both sway bars at the softest settings. and i have blue, dark blue, and purple springs to go with the stock oils.

should i get thinner oils to increase reaction of the suspension?

i usually run 40s up front and 37s in the rear, with a 5mm front height and 6mm rear. and all my camber and toe settings are close to stock.
Try to use the B blocks in the rear mounts, that seems to help if the traction is low, and add shims to the rear camber link.
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Old 08-28-2005, 09:41 AM   #15809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira
Try to use the B blocks in the rear mounts, that seems to help if the traction is low, and add shims to the rear camber link.

When you add shims to the rear camber link you loose traction! What is the rear toe of the car? In parking lots I run 35 front and 37 rears, I like steering! It also keeps the tire wear even front to back.
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:22 AM   #15810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
When you add shims to the rear camber link you loose traction! What is the rear toe of the car? In parking lots I run 35 front and 37 rears, I like steering! It also keeps the tire wear even front to back.
So who got the correct answer ? ira or slotmachine ?

BTW, During race today, my car took high speed long corner with 2 or 3 times "hooked" incidents. The car wants to turn at the sweeper but the rear tires lose traction making it hooked. This was happened everytime I off the throttle too fast, and on throttle to quick. Is it bottom out issue ? My rear spring is kind of soft.
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