Mugen MTX-4
#4351
i dont know if i missed out reading through,but does anybody got the solution for 2nd gear stripping and chasis flex?
asw,thx for the info,i was testing 1 of my friends brb,works very well and infact it outdo 5porters here.. colder plug?was doing 6tf.
asw,thx for the info,i was testing 1 of my friends brb,works very well and infact it outdo 5porters here.. colder plug?was doing 6tf.
#4352
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
i dont know if i missed out reading through,but does anybody got the solution for 2nd gear stripping and chasis flex?
#4353
Originally Posted by Corse-R
You can solve it with a correct gear mesh (in doubt, remove the circlip and the 1st gear) of the second gear, install the first gear then. A monoblock engine mount helps a lot. I have the Kyosho one installed and didn't stripped anymore a 2nd gear.
Monoblock kyosho?3R u mean?any different from the stock height?
#4354
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Originally Posted by asw7576
I'm still using the original shaft. I heard lots of bad things when you replace the main shaft with titanium. Hollow steel is better than Ti.
To those having problems with second gear stripping, as advised by others, make sure you have a good mesh and use a one piece engine mount. I had two gallons on my car before I ever got a one piece mount, but I haven't stripped any gears yet. I now have more than three gallons of fuel on my car and I still haven't tossed one spur gear yet.
I hope these suggestions help as I just don't know why you guys are stripping gears. If your car catches air make sure you get off the gas before it lands.
#4355
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
oo..dont you find the 2nd gear housing bit voble?could it be the affect?
Monoblock kyosho?3R u mean?any different from the stock height?
Monoblock kyosho?3R u mean?any different from the stock height?
A true bolt-on is the kawahara ones - unavailable at my country, so this is why is used the shimo ones.
Regarding Titanium main shafts and others... Is not very wise to put a Ti shaft and make to run a bearing over it (the shaft will wear the one-way bearing). Much better to use a Steel shaft (the one I use is the Square hollow MTX3 shaft - superb quality and durability and much cheaper than the Ti shafts).
About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
Last edited by Corse-R; 04-17-2006 at 03:29 AM.
#4356
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Nope, I'm talking about the Kyosho Shimo monoblock engine mount (part no. TSW27). Tried to search one good photo of it, but haven't found one, click here to see an image of the engine mount. The difference in height should be negligible (haven't bothered of measuring the height it...bought, modded and installed and is there).
A true bolt-on is the kawahara ones - unavailable at my country, so this is why is used the shimo ones.
Regarding Titanium main shafts and others... Is not very wise to put a Ti shaft and make to run a bearing over it (the shaft will wear the one-way bearing). Much better to use a Steel shaft (the one I use is the Square hollow MTX3 shaft - superb quality and durability and much cheaper than the Ti shafts).
About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
A true bolt-on is the kawahara ones - unavailable at my country, so this is why is used the shimo ones.
Regarding Titanium main shafts and others... Is not very wise to put a Ti shaft and make to run a bearing over it (the shaft will wear the one-way bearing). Much better to use a Steel shaft (the one I use is the Square hollow MTX3 shaft - superb quality and durability and much cheaper than the Ti shafts).
About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
the engine mount looks cool!cant et it here,but let me see if LHS can help me out.currently my car weight is just nice when i weight with 58mm tyres,1740g wit transponder&bodyshel, without fuel. With the hollow shaft,fron aluminium shaft,lightweight pulley adaptors,1/2 set Ti screws, it is a superb car to drive and race too..been doin podiums a with it..
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
#4357
Originally Posted by Corse-R
About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
2. Use small springs between brake plates ( not necessary ).
#4358
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
By the moment I don't need a more stiffer chassis (just remembered how changed my MTX3 when I put the 4mm chasis and all those stiffeners... sometimes was a bitch to drive). The stock chassis and the engine mount makes it harder where it was a little weak. Next week the kawa chassis will drop over my LHS, I'll take a look of it.
#4359
Originally Posted by asw7576
1. Observe the holes position and follow the book. Use dremel to slightly enlarge the holes so the plates can move freely OR blast off the screw's threads where it touches the plates.
2. Use small springs between brake plates ( not necessary ).
2. Use small springs between brake plates ( not necessary ).
Is a bad move to put small springs between the brake pads, doesn't work at all... been there, done that (tried for a time on my MTX3 too). Blasting the threads on the screws helps to get a free movement of the brake pads (did it when I was assembling my car).
I'll post a photo: The part I'm telling is the one where on one side has 3 pins to hold the brake disk and on the other side has a square where you put the pulley. Seen on the photo too the square main shaft I was talking previously, a beefy brake disk and the blue brake pads (if this doesn't stop your car... nothing will do it). Click here to see it.
P.D: The brake disk doesn't touches at any place, runs very near of the carb, but doesn't touches at all.
#4360
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
thx bro..actually me just wana get some feedback how u guys did on the stripping parts,i solved mine by doin the same thing u did,well it works well from the beginning til now.
the engine mount looks cool!cant et it here,but let me see if LHS can help me out.currently my car weight is just nice when i weight with 58mm tyres,1740g wit transponder&bodyshel, without fuel. With the hollow shaft,fron aluminium shaft,lightweight pulley adaptors,1/2 set Ti screws, it is a superb car to drive and race too..been doin podiums a with it..
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
the engine mount looks cool!cant et it here,but let me see if LHS can help me out.currently my car weight is just nice when i weight with 58mm tyres,1740g wit transponder&bodyshel, without fuel. With the hollow shaft,fron aluminium shaft,lightweight pulley adaptors,1/2 set Ti screws, it is a superb car to drive and race too..been doin podiums a with it..
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
By the way .. what engine you gonna run in Korea?
#4361
Originally Posted by Corse-R
I was referring to the aluminium piece that holds the brake disk on the main shaft. Not the metallic plates that hold the brake pad.
Is a bad move to put small springs between the brake pads, doesn't work at all... been there, done that (tried for a time on my MTX3 too). Blasting the threads on the screws helps to get a free movement of the brake pads (did it when I was assembling my car).
I'll post a photo: The part I'm telling is the one where on one side has 3 pins to hold the brake disk and on the other side has a square where you put the pulley. Seen on the photo too the square main shaft I was talking previously, a beefy brake disk and the blue brake pads (if this doesn't stop your car... nothing will do it). Click here to see it.
P.D: The brake disk doesn't touches at any place, runs very near of the carb, but doesn't touches at all.
Is a bad move to put small springs between the brake pads, doesn't work at all... been there, done that (tried for a time on my MTX3 too). Blasting the threads on the screws helps to get a free movement of the brake pads (did it when I was assembling my car).
I'll post a photo: The part I'm telling is the one where on one side has 3 pins to hold the brake disk and on the other side has a square where you put the pulley. Seen on the photo too the square main shaft I was talking previously, a beefy brake disk and the blue brake pads (if this doesn't stop your car... nothing will do it). Click here to see it.
P.D: The brake disk doesn't touches at any place, runs very near of the carb, but doesn't touches at all.
I don't know yours, but I suggest to look the bottom of the brake holder plate and see any sign of contacts.
BTW, Do you use mtx3 prospec disc brake or something else ? The holes for the three pins could be different in diameter between mugen originals vs third parties.
For the rest of you guys, keep it stock as in manual.... less headche !!
#4362
Originally Posted by asw7576
Ok ... got it. You mean the three pins that hold the disc brake ? Don't blame the galling problem to the pins. In my case, the disc brake ( got it from mtx3 prospec ) unknowingly touch the bottom of the upper plate brake holder ( the plastic that holds rear bulkheads ). So I have to remove some plastic very thinly with dremel. Right now I have some play with the disc.
#4364
Tech Rookie
Rear CVD
Does anyone know where I can get the rear MUGEN CVD's and yellow clutch shoe? I'm in Southern California right now.
#4365
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
me tried the red-grey-black,there is a different on my engine temperature which red givs me higher temp bout 5C extra.Dont know bout yellow..
I am gonna have to test the yellow too since this mid May is the Asian Mugen Finals in Suwon Korea..me the only 1/10 from M'sia attending..
by the way,do you guys think BRB is legal for the race?Ifmar?
I am gonna have to test the yellow too since this mid May is the Asian Mugen Finals in Suwon Korea..me the only 1/10 from M'sia attending..
by the way,do you guys think BRB is legal for the race?Ifmar?
Good luck at the race.