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Old 12-11-2002, 03:20 AM
  #496  
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And iwould of said that the car that was tuned off the ground was lean, as you cant see how the engine is with no load on it, and don't let your mate touch it again, as revving it WOT can kill an engine while its off the ground, due to (correct if rong):
the other reason is it can snap the conrod i thinks
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Old 12-11-2002, 12:51 PM
  #497  
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It is possible to bugger a conrod, however you would have to rev the buggery out of the engine to do it, I personally warm my engine up nearly every time whilst off the ground however a little self-control goes a long way!
r2d691's problems pertain more to tuning than anything else I dont think anything negative has come about by the fact that it was off the ground.
You melbourne guys, can you tell me what you think of VORTEC in general, there are some discussions going on up here and looks like a real good model? Wnats good, whats bad etc.

gt

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Old 12-11-2002, 12:52 PM
  #498  
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has the pipe turned up yet?

gt

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Old 12-11-2002, 05:51 PM
  #499  
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i have a quick question my rear diff keep on leakin how do i stop it from leaking it's pissing me off i cant put the whole thing together now ne quick methods?
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Old 12-11-2002, 06:55 PM
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Help plz ne one?
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Old 12-11-2002, 06:57 PM
  #501  
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I'd pull the diff apart, replace the seals that look like carboard, and replace the o-rings, and then see if it leaks.
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:03 PM
  #502  
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rite now all the hobby stores are closed i took everything apart like 3 times and the seal looks decent and now my screws dont screw in tightly NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:05 PM
  #503  
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what o rings? all i see that's for the rear diff is just a seals that block off the fluid from coming out.
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:06 PM
  #504  
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You have probably stripped the casing in which the screws go.
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:07 PM
  #505  
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Where the shaft goes out to the wheels, there is meant to be 1 small o-ring on each side.
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:09 PM
  #506  
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Make sure that the diff case is flush before screwing everything tightly.

Then put a layer of silicon sealant around the diff to seal in the diff oil.

Good luck!
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:36 PM
  #507  
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DONT PANIC!
These thing leak all the time, the lighter the oil the more the leak.
If youve stripped out the casing youll just have to replace the 2.6 x 8 screws with 3x8 screws!(local hobby shop)
Make sure though that the gasket and housings are all aligned right.

Quick method.
Dissasemble the diff, clean the diff housing where the screws go in,
get a 2-part type epoxy glue and just put a little on the thread where the screws go in. give it a couple of hours and re-assemble.

Thats as quick as it gets!

The o-rings are behind the out drives and have nothing to do with the leak!

dont panic dude......thats nitro

If worst comes to worst a complete new pulley/diff set is only about $8.00 usd


gt

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Old 12-11-2002, 08:20 PM
  #508  
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kk ii'll try tomarrow if i can or friday. can i get the epoxy glue from my lhs? Thx Squiz
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Old 12-11-2002, 08:21 PM
  #509  
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no the leak doesn't come out the screw holes it comes out from where the two cases meet together.
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Old 12-11-2002, 09:40 PM
  #510  
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I realise that, but the problem is being caused by the fact that your screws arent binding in the recesses. The glue will build the threads up enough to bind.
I would personally suggest waiting and getting the bigger screws, this is a proper fix and myself and many guys I know have done this to v-one-s' and R's.

It is also worthwhile to keep a product from kyosho called "car aids"....yes it sounds dreadfull but it is a selection of about 300 screws, nuts, grub screws, c clips etc. about us$10.00.

gt

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