elim

Thanks alot V One S for your reply. I don't mind the abuse because in your shoes, you're probably sick of answering but in my shoes, as this is my first car, I had to ask these questions to confirm it by other people.


So you have said the above in regards to changing nitro %, is it the same for changing oil % within the fuel's content ? Or changing the oil % doesn't really matter.

V-One S

In regards to the Nitro % its not as much needed to swap % to mix fuel, but changing oils, MAJORLY when going to run less oil, to do a mix... i changed by 2% drop, and i mixed 150ml from each... and ran it all out...


In regards to the V-One S versus the RR...
If you have enough money to just buy the RR kit, I'd go and get the S, seeing as you still need a good motor for the RR, and the GS15-r has plenty of power for a little while, and can be modified quite well, and has the means to shake it with the NTC3 and kick butt if the right driver is put with it... but if you have 2 shocking drivers (one on ntc3, other on the V-One S, they will still be equal rivals)
And the V-One S has toe adjustments front and rear
Camber front and rear
and front caster adjustments...

elim

ah ok thanks for that.

Has anyone heard of the brand Probilo nitro fuel ?
Maybe the spelling is incorrect but it's pronounced as Probilo.

V-One S

Fuel brands? What are they?

Shit, i don't care about them...
I just run what ever the LHS gives me...
There very cheap to replace, and if worried about crap fuel, take a little bit, i think you heat it to 70 or 80degrees, and let it settle for a few days...
if nothing settles (like dirt) its fine...

I dont bother with fuel BRANDS... i just get some, and if your not racing on the track, run about 20% oil, castor, AND synthetic is preferable...

elim

Ok thanks dude.

I have a 2Litre bottle, $20, am considering of throwing it away and just get a branded one like Cool Power.

V-One S

If your going to throw out your 2Litre bottle, i'll take it...

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

Tuning a GS15R?.....try this guys, let ,me know how it goes afterwards ..


Ok, first off, close off your main needle all the way (not too tight, we don't wanna stuff anything) and then open it out 2 turns. This should be pretty close, but you'll have to check it out on the track to get it 100%

Take off your air filter and look at the opening inside the carburettor, it should be about .5mm to .75mm, set it to this by adjusting the idle screw...this is almost a once only adjustment, basically if your motor wont idle with this setting then more than likely your bottom end mixture is set too rich or too lean.

Ok, now the tricky one, how do you know when your bottom end mixture is set correctly?

The way I test it is like this.
Start the motor and get it to operating temperature, give it 2 or 3 good revs and listen to it as it comes back to idle, don't blip the throttle to keep it running, just try to hear what it does for the next 5 - 10 seconds after you rev it.

If it sort of idles, then progressively begins to idle slower and slower until it stops,then your bottom end is too rich, a good way to test this ,again is to give it 2 or 3 revs, let it come back to idle and just as it does this, get some pointy nosed pliers and clamp the fuel line about 10mm from where it goes connected to the carby. Now listen to the motor, if the bottom end is close to being right ,it should idle for about 2 to 3 seconds, then the revs will rise and the motor will stop. If it just stops as soon as you clamp the hose, then the bottom end is too lean , if it idles for longer than 5 seconds before the revs go up , then the bottom end mixture is too rich.

When adjusting the bottom end, move the needle about 30deg at a time, and don't forget to give it a few revs to both clear and to let the motor "settle" back to idling before adjusting it. You might find that once you have the mixture set correctly you may have to give the idle screw one last tweak to get it just right.

What I look for mixture wise is that after a good rev, the motor comes back to idle, then maybe ever so slightly the revs drop. Also when I hold the throttle flat down the longest straight, you should see a slight trail of smoke.

Don't worry yourself too much with the engine temp (I know, everybody says " don't run any hotter than...") you'll have to trust me on this,My GS15R's have run as hot as 300F, I've found that they don't really make good power under 280F, but I seldom look at the temp, just make sure the thing has a little trail of smoke when it's going flat out, both cool power and hot stuff use very good lubricants, you won't have any problems.

Also, when you use a higher content of nitro, you will find that the motor is easier to tune, will run cooler (to an extent), will idle better and make more power.
I've used from 16% thru to 30%....no problems at all.

hope this helps

Luis

elim

Has help me dearly Luis thanks.

I think I'll break my engine in with this 10% no brand fuel and will go with CoolPower 15% after break in.


Ben: Don't get the LOLA version, although it comes with foam tyres and rear floating thingy majig, my one didn't come with a front urethene bumper. I don't know if it suppose to have one or not but on the box, the pictures of the chassis looks like it don't have one and also I don't think the LOLA shell would fit on top.

I will have to head down to my LHS and get one.

Btw Luis, is Automatic Transmission Fluid appropriate as after run into the engine ? Just a few drops into the glow plug hole ?

Update: Thanks Luis, the instructions you have provided worked very well. I was able to determine that my engine was rich from what you've said, taking more than 5 seconds to stop after clamping the fuel line. It's so cold here in Sydney, I guess I have to rich it up again if I had to tune it in the day time. Engine is so sensitive just between day and night time (in regards to tuning).

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

Im not saying it doesnt have a purpose im just saying its not worth the upgrades when you first start out. What people do is run the car in kit form then do upgrades as necessary. For example when i first had my car i was running foams and adjusting ride height was becoming a problem so i got myself alloy threaded shocks. then i fitted my 2 speed in which i brought when i brought the kit but didnt put it in. the only way you'll tell the difference between upgrades if you run the car in kit form. Also what if you wanna upgrade later on. it would be such a waste of money on all the hop ups.

elim

Hey guys, do you know whether this part will fit on a V one S ?
Front Bumper

Thanks.

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

elim

Hey Luis, you have given a great instruction in regards to low speed needle. Would you be able to give one for setting the high speed needle ?

Thanks.

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

any of you guys ever had your GS 15R modified?

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

Hmmm........lets see....

If in doubt - richen it up...

the top end needle really needs to be set on the track, I generally don't touch it that much, probably the best thing to do if you are in doubt is to start off by richening the top end to the point that the motor almost splutters, then gradually adjust the top end to get the right mixture..


I'll try to write something tomorrow..


LS

ben1112

Hey guys, i having been fooling around nitros for some time now and have no problems with the mechanical side of gas cars. I am now looking forward to getting a new car, i will be getting a new car and transmitter set. I'm looking for a Kyosho cuz the support here is great. i am not sure whether i am up to a voner and i dont have a spare engine.. however, i saw today a FW-05s at a LHS and the guy said it is a very new model... He also mentioned that the vonesII is an old model and parts are getting scarced. The fw05s comes with an .15 engine. it is $200 more... Do you guys think it's worth it? im a novice driver.