The only thing I can think of is serpent 3.1 upgrade that I got has got two incorrect screws.. Do they make the 3x30mm with a thread all the way? Otherwise if this was the same screw everybody received, then I'm sure many others may have had the same issues as me and would probably have been mentioned on here by now.

Just use shorter M3 dome or cap head screws. That’s what I have on my car. Use the stock screws to mount the shocks. Mount the standoff’s in the same way as the 3.0 standoff’s. use the same screws.

Look at the photos here. It’s clear how to mount the new standoff’s. just use the existing shock mount screw and use dome head M3 screws to mount the standoff to the shock tower. I think I use M3x10.

Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Upgrade set suspension 811 GT - Images

No probs thanks.
Can you confirm in those photos is it long stand off at front shock tower and short at rear shock tower?

Dan could you tell me if you're running longer top shock supports on rear or front? As far as I can see in the photos of the like you send, both front AND rear are the longer ones. Very confused ��

The long ones are for the front, the short ones for the rear. The opposite way there is no clearance for the front shock.

There are two easy ways to fix the problem with the screws delivered:

1. Take 3.2mm drill and carefully remove about 2mm of the thread from the backside.

2. Use a shorter screw from the backside and the short one from the previous version to fix the shock. Make sure to use a screw that is not completely threaded towards the end for a better fit in the shock tower.

I prefer version one as the self tapping nut to fix the shock is the better solution for later on maintenance.

Thanks for the response. That's what I thought! my front shocks were catching, but then others have said their front wasn't catching (I dunno how) and they thought that the rear was meant to be longer to make up the offset in the new lower mounts. It made sense too. Maybe both should be extended?? I also noticed that with the longer mounts on the front, my shocks (when viewed from the side) are now at 90 degrees to the front arms, so as to say they are perfectly lined up to take the shock as opposed to being laid back with the front tower.

I also much prefer the older mounts too, but the new towers have smaller holes so can't use them. the old seem More sturdy and much easier to take off for maintenance. I wonder if serpent will rectify the issue regarding the 30mm screw having too much flat on the new one.

I ended up not trusting myself to drill out the shock mount, and went with a shorter screw for the tower side & the original screw for the other.

Thanks again.

Braking clutch springs
 

Gents,

Why do the clutch shoe springs brake almost every time you race the car?
We're running the RTR Serpent with the standard 3 shoe clutch. All the participants suffer from braking clutch springs. it doesn't matter whether you run the alu'or the carbons, they just brake almost everytime you race.

Is this a common problem? Bad design?....does the 4 shoe clutch have the same problem? Do I need to buy a different brand of springs?

any advice would be helpfull....

w.

I really don't know sorry. I had one set of springs that lasted hours of use. I'm
Only just into my second springs as I wanted stiffer. This is rtr.
So far no troubles with 4 shoe kit clutch either. Really sorry mate I don't know!

..


No worries...good to hear at least you experience no problems with the 4 shoe so we might go there as well:)

I don't know others but on my GT3.1 (that I have ran for a 30 minutes race) the long stand off and that long 30mm screws are for the REAR SHOCK. The shorter screw and shorter stand off are for the FRONT SHOCK. It is exactly like the GT3.0 design...except, on Serpent page, they are using the GT3.1 design with the original 2 screws in design (both 3mm screws going to the shock tower and the end of the shock).

I will go home and take a picture of mine...........there is NO OTHER WAY around it, I cannot get the LONG standoff mount to the front or the other way around.

NOW..........about that long 30mm screws, like I have mentioned 2-3 pages back, it is weird....you think you screw all the way in and it stop and leave you 3-5mm space (just like your 1st pic), actually, SCREW IT IN HARDER and it will thread the aluminum in and it will go all the way. I have measured my rear shock screws and in fact it is a 30mm screws.......like I said, keep turn it in (you won't strip a 2.5mm socket head).....it will go in.

Like I said just keep screwing it in and it will thread in. Long standoff for the rear and short standoff for the front.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...598c41609.jpeg

Front shock

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...b1bf989c8.jpeg

Rear standoff before screw it all the way in

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...fc9dd45b9.jpeg

Rear shock with long stand off align with lower shock mount

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8da25be0b.jpeg

Rear standoff thread all the in

Awesome photos solara.
I tried screwing in the 30mm and even with every bit of strength I have, mine wouldn't go in. It literally jammed and can't physically go past 2mm gap.
So I stuck with on the serpent page.

See the photo of your front shocks, the Spring looks like it's touching the camber link plastic bit. Mine and some friends was touching on both springs. Catching basically unless using the uppermost holes on the shock tower to give clearance.

Hey Solara, are you getting that 'death ring' on the tires at 'Liesure Hobbies Track' ??

Is that the stock '#3' Akerman arm ?? Have you tried the #2 at all ?? Or is that something New/Different with the 3/3.1 ?? :cool:

Nope, not touching at all, no matter which hole I am using, and I am using the most inner holes on the front, not touch, far from touching.

Yes it was from that track, however, I think those are some last year old spec arrowmax/sweep tires.........I have the new tires but does not have the chance to run it and see I have that good old death ring on the tires...I hope it is the tire.

I am using the optional #3 akerman arm per everyone's 3.1 setup...like Paolo. Never have to change it nor I need to or will help to prevent the death ring on the tires.

Question
 

I Have a Couple of Question.

Do you guys try the over drive on the front 43 t ? SER600892

And also any one try the rear arm of SRX8 SER600895 I think maybe its fitson the 3.1 its better than the stock one.

Thanks Eduardo

No and No. just run the new hard arms for the 811 GT.

When I was told my 1.0+ (with 0*-0* carriers and knuckles) was 'pushing', Mike from 'Leisure' set me up with the #2 and made a world of difference. But now I've raced a much smaller track in CA and feel the need to try the #1.
Seeing that tire wear makes me remember the last set of GQ tires I had left and ran them till I had a 'NASCAR' style blowout......it really came apart but I had taxed it beyond the 'death ring'. 😳

Serpent site said, #1 will give you more off power steering, and #3 will give you more on power steering. So it is all depends on where you want more steering.....

BINGO.....that's what I was wondering. You just painted the picture I needed. It was like I had to give the car a special invitation to turn-in.
Thanks

I just bought a set of the srx8 pro brakes and the discs are super tight when fitting onto the outdrives. They fit but I need to use a lot of strength to get them on and once on the disc is set in place, absolutely no movement/wiggle to it. Anybody got any ideas? The original brake set had a tiny bit of give, as any brake disc should.. Any ideas?

You probably need to de-bur your outdrives. The dogbone pins can raise the edge of the outdrive causing the problem you are describing. Take a file to the slotted edge of the outdrive and make sure it's smooth and flat.

What he said!

Does anyone know when the GT 3.1 will be available to purchase?

A question
The new Cluth Bell Its better than the stock one?

It's a little lighter, slightly better acceleration

Hello from France,

no problem with the screws. Just don't hesitate to screw strong!!!


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...95ecf2f0bd.jpg

Linkages play
 

Hello Gents,

A question about linkages play. I know it's a much debated topic in RC in general but I tend to believe the linkages play, especially on the steering servo linkage to the servo saver post is huge. Also the steering rods and the camber linkages do have quite a bit of play. Do I just need to replace them or are there better aftermarket linkages I can use. Did a lot of searching already but thought I'd ask here for some good advice....

thx in advance

w.

It depends where the play is coming from. I usually replace the plastic ball joints when wear starts to develop in the plastic but to be honest it isn't very often. If I remember correctly you run the RTR car? If so then the steering assembly has a lot of play in it from the outset. I don't mind a bit of play in the linkages and I actually think it leads to a freer feeling car on the track.

Another thing which is overlooked is the actual play in the steering servo itself. I used to run SAVOX but found the gears very soon developed a lot of play in them which actually made the rest of the steering system seem to have lots of play. I now run SANWA SRG-BX servos in GT (I was already using them in Buggy and 1/8 circuit) and most of the play went away as the servo them had no neutral play whatsoever.

I think the steering rod linkages and the servo linkage are the same as the 3.0. The standard RTR ackerman bar sucks as Serpent puts 3 mm threaded bolts into the metal 3.5 mm bushings instead of using the kingpins. I replaced it by the ball bearing one. The savox 2290 has 1 hour of work under the belt as I burnt up 2 savox 1268's already. It's not the servo, it's not the ackerman. It's only the steering rods and the servo link. I was just wandering whether this is normal after let say about 10 liters of fuel. Replacing is easy but maybe there something better?...

w.

I get more life than 10 liters but as you say cheap to replace. I don't think there is an alternative actually.

droop
 

Dan how & what do you set the droop at

Chassis on a flat plate and with the wheel hex on a parallel with the flat plate measure the droop from the bottom of the hex to the board. In general I start with 25mm in the front and 26mm in the rear. I run the car very stiff with very little uplift on the GT.

If anyone is looking for a Cobra GT, I have a brand new ready to run with motor, servos, pipe/header, 811 GT suspension upgrade, gears, springs, sweep tires. Everything is brand new. No time to play, to many hobbies.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-0-roller.html

Thanks Dan

Anyone know when new kits might be in stock?

I heard there won't be 3.1 kits.

http://www.redrc.net/2017/11/serpent-cobra-gt-3-1-team-edition-18th-nitro-gt-kit/