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Old 01-13-2018, 03:29 AM
  #2581  
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Do you all run stock shocks (aside from a few running the rcshox pistons seems to be a common comment). Aside from those, are you mostly running stock? Any mods that you make aside from changing oils? ive seen a different silicone membrane and also seen the optional shock tops?

Also, I ordered a novarossi 9886 pipe. It doesn't say EFRA 9886 on it. Just the part number and super strong. All images I've seen it says EFRA 9886 on it. Is this the right pipe?
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Old 01-13-2018, 05:29 AM
  #2582  
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Originally Posted by Cilal
Do you all run stock shocks (aside from a few running the rcshox pistons seems to be a common comment). Aside from those, are you mostly running stock? Any mods that you make aside from changing oils? ive seen a different silicone membrane and also seen the optional shock tops?

Also, I ordered a novarossi 9886 pipe. It doesn't say EFRA 9886 on it. Just the part number and super strong. All images I've seen it says EFRA 9886 on it. Is this the right pipe?
The rest of the shock (besides the RCSHOX pistons) is box stock. The optional caps are just hard coated versions of stock and so no difference in performance. The SRX8 optional caps and seals are for building emulsion shocks which are not for onroad use anyway. I am not sure the SRX8 caps even fit the 811 shock bodies (never tried it).

9886 was the EFRA registration number however as the pipe is no longer homologated by EFRA (because it is a 2 chamber pipe) and therefore illegal in europe the new pipes no longer state EFRA but rest assured that it is the correct pipe.
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Old 01-19-2018, 03:08 AM
  #2583  
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
The rest of the shock (besides the RCSHOX pistons) is box stock. The optional caps are just hard coated versions of stock and so no difference in performance. The SRX8 optional caps and seals are for building emulsion shocks which are not for onroad use anyway. I am not sure the SRX8 caps even fit the 811 shock bodies (never tried it).

9886 was the EFRA registration number however as the pipe is no longer homologated by EFRA (because it is a 2 chamber pipe) and therefore illegal in europe the new pipes no longer state EFRA but rest assured that it is the correct pipe.
Jesus Christ...this guy knows a lot....is there anything he doesn't know?.......and still keeps spreading the word.......Must be getting tired at some point although I hope not.....
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Old 01-29-2018, 01:01 AM
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Was running my car last week and noticed the engine has slipped. It had rotated out of alignment with the spurs. Does anybody know any remedies to stop engine moving? Is it wise to use locktite on motor mounts or is that asking for trouble? Somebody told me once that the heat from the engine can cause issues with loctite.
Also, over time Have had one or two issues with grub screws coming loose on out drives, what loctite does everybody use to stop coming loose?
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Old 01-29-2018, 06:10 AM
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I use the blue loctite. On the outdrives I use a bit more than normal. As for the lower engine mount plates and lower engine mount screws I put a small amount of loctite.
Originally Posted by Cilal
Was running my car last week and noticed the engine has slipped. It had rotated out of alignment with the spurs. Does anybody know any remedies to stop engine moving? Is it wise to use locktite on motor mounts or is that asking for trouble? Somebody told me once that the heat from the engine can cause issues with loctite.
Also, over time Have had one or two issues with grub screws coming loose on out drives, what loctite does everybody use to stop coming loose?
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:36 PM
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+1. I use loctite on the bottom screws only in the motor mount. I don’t loctite the upper screws which bolt the engine to the mounts. I do however really murder tighten those screws and never had my engine move. I don’t use loctite here because I have had issues getting the screw out and I do frequently change engines so it was a PITA. On the outdrives again use plenty of loctite on the Allen screw and do these up very tight. It’s best to leave the car 24-48hrs to allow the loctite to properly set prior to running the car.
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Old 01-30-2018, 10:53 AM
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RCSHOX makes a nice motor mount for the 3.1 cars and shock pistons for the 3.1 car the work real well. the motor mount is a slide mount makes it easer to get the gear mesh right.
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Old 02-01-2018, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
+1. I use loctite on the bottom screws only in the motor mount. I don’t loctite the upper screws which bolt the engine to the mounts. I do however really murder tighten those screws and never had my engine move. I don’t use loctite here because I have had issues getting the screw out and I do frequently change engines so it was a PITA. On the outdrives again use plenty of loctite on the Allen screw and do these up very tight. It’s best to leave the car 24-48hrs to allow the loctite to properly set prior to running the car.
For engine mount (upper and lower).......that is the only area I don't use any loctite. In fact, I replaced all those screws with the TORX screw. Serpent used to have the option parts for the enigne mount screws using those...(1/8 Serpent Impact Vector Veteq.....) and all of my 1/8th are using those and never have my engine shifted.
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Old 02-02-2018, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DKB243
RCSHOX makes a nice motor mount for the 3.1 cars and shock pistons for the 3.1 car the work real well. the motor mount is a slide mount makes it easer to get the gear mesh right.
+1 yep. I run those on my car too. The slide mount is really neat and the shock pistons work great!
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Old 02-04-2018, 01:10 AM
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I hear of a few people talking about 'venting' tires. Does than mean drilling holes into rims or tires or both?
If so, how many holes and what drill size for the hole should be used?
Do brands differ?
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilal
I hear of a few people talking about 'venting' tires. Does than mean drilling holes into rims or tires or both?
If so, how many holes and what drill size for the hole should be used?
Do brands differ?
Both. Sweep tires come pre-vented. 2 holes 180 degrees apart.
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Old 02-04-2018, 08:12 AM
  #2592  
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Hi Guys a question.
Sweep Tires have 2 option. EXP and GT and also 2 insert. Which one do you recomend for a medium to low traccion.
Also what do you think about the hard and xhard spring?
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Old 02-04-2018, 11:40 PM
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So any tire I buy any brand that's not vented should I then vent them?



Originally Posted by dan_vector
Both. Sweep tires come pre-vented. 2 holes 180 degrees apart.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:59 PM
  #2594  
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Venting will help keep temps down so if you are having problems with overheating the tires, venting will help.

Using a drill bit doesn't work all that well so I've been using a Screw hole punch that leather workers use and it works great. I use the 2 mm hole tip. You can find them on Amazon.

Originally Posted by Cilal
So any tire I buy any brand that's not vented should I then vent them?
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by race_line
Hi Guys a question.
Sweep Tires have 2 option. EXP and GT and also 2 insert. Which one do you recomend for a medium to low traccion.
Also what do you think about the hard and xhard spring?
EXP are the ones to go for. I'd run 40's in qualifying and 45's in finals longer than 20 minutes. If the air/track temp is more than 35c then up both by 5.

I run hard or xhard springs on my 3.1 car. Alternating between the two. I rarely go softer.
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