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Old 09-20-2017, 03:17 PM
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https://m.facebook.com/SerpentMRC/ph...pe=3&source=54
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:19 PM
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:20 PM
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Notice the shock on front of the rear tower.
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:21 PM
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Also notice the rear arms are reversed to suit it. They are back to front.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:09 PM
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What I meant old-new is I call the new hard arms new and regular 3.0 old as the new hard arms are slightly longer than the 3.0 arm
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by howardns
What I meant old-new is I call the new hard arms new and regular 3.0 old as the new hard arms are slightly longer than the 3.0 arm
Makes sense.
Do you need to use longer shafts if using the new hard arms?
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cilal
Makes sense.
Do you need to use longer shafts if using the new hard arms?
Yes but I don’t. I redrill the hole in the new arms at the hub carrier pin hole to maintain trackwidth. I’ve never had an issue with steering and run the shocks on the rear of the tower (especially on the 3.1 configuration). I generate the steering with setup - besides our tracks are way lower traction than in the USA so our cars can be very nervous off power if you push the weight too far forwards.You’ll loose on power steering if you put the shocks in front of the tower. More off power steering maybe....

To redrill the hole I use a plastic grub screw to plug the original hole then use the old standard arm as a template and redrill the hole in the original position. That way you maintain the narrower rear track for more steering in general.
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Old 09-21-2017, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Yes but I don’t. I redrill the hole in the new arms at the hub carrier pin hole to maintain trackwidth. I’ve never had an issue with steering and run the shocks on the rear of the tower (especially on the 3.1 configuration). I generate the steering with setup - besides our tracks are way lower traction than in the USA so our cars can be very nervous off power if you push the weight too far forwards.You’ll loose on power steering if you put the shocks in front of the tower. More off power steering maybe....

To redrill the hole I use a plastic grub screw to plug the original hole then use the old standard arm as a template and redrill the hole in the original position. That way you maintain the narrower rear track for more steering in general.
So you're saying a narrower rear track is good for steering in general?
How do the harder arms perform - just simply stiffen up the car a little more?
Every day I think I master the car and then I hear another awesome piece of advice on here. I hope all my questions aren't seeming annoying- hopefully they also help out many others too.
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilal
So you're saying a narrower rear track is good for steering in general?
How do the harder arms perform - just simply stiffen up the car a little more?
Every day I think I master the car and then I hear another awesome piece of advice on here. I hope all my questions aren't seeming annoying- hopefully they also help out many others too.
Yes, the car will rotate quicker and harder. A wider rear track will give more stability and in general less steering due to the higher lateral rear grip.

The harder arms are just better. The arms just liven up the car. The old front arms in particular used to warp over time as well particularly if you left the car sat on its wheels at home when not being raced.

My advice is don't try anything too drastic just yet (like reversing the rear arms) as you'll quickly get lost in setup etc. My advice is to run it with the new 3.1 configuration and keep stiffening up the car until you get the balance you like. You can try the more drastic changes later once you get comfortable with how the car responds to changes.
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Yes, the car will rotate quicker and harder. A wider rear track will give more stability and in general less steering due to the higher lateral rear grip.

The harder arms are just better. The arms just liven up the car. The old front arms in particular used to warp over time as well particularly if you left the car sat on its wheels at home when not being raced.

My advice is don't try anything too drastic just yet (like reversing the rear arms) as you'll quickly get lost in setup etc. My advice is to run it with the new 3.1 configuration and keep stiffening up the car until you get the balance you like. You can try the more drastic changes later once you get comfortable with how the car responds to changes.
Great.
And as for wheel hex's, they would affect the track width too? What wheel hex's do you and most run front and back?
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Old 09-21-2017, 05:08 AM
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Dan is correct 1 change at a time
I just installed the 3.1 kit and will try in a few days. My home track is homestead rc raceway in Miami that typically is sprayed and prepped with alot of traction and setup is way different with a lot of traction than low or medium traction. Our track is hosting the 1/10 sedan worlds next year
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by howardns
Dan is correct 1 change at a time
I just installed the 3.1 kit and will try in a few days. My home track is homestead rc raceway in Miami that typically is sprayed and prepped with alot of traction and setup is way different with a lot of traction than low or medium traction. Our track is hosting the 1/10 sedan worlds next year
I'll see you there at the worlds then
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilal
Great.
And as for wheel hex's, they would affect the track width too? What wheel hex's do you and most run front and back?
Well it's a little bit more complex than that. The wheel hexes also affect the offset. So actually the feeling will be different.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
I'll see you there at the worlds then
looking forward to it. what is really good is that serpent American is in Miami and there will be a lot of events leading up to race ,check out website

https://www.rc1-racing.com/
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Old 09-22-2017, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Well it's a little bit more complex than that. The wheel hexes also affect the offset. So actually the feeling will be different.
What is a typical offset setup/starting point on the cobra 3.0?
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