Serpent Cobra GT
#2461
#2462
Braking clutch springs
We're running the standard flywheel and clutch bell of the RTR. Problem is the clutch shoe springs brake really quick. 1 or 2 days of driving and bang...they brake. It doesn't matter whether we use the 0.9, 1.0 or 1.1 mm springs.
Furthermore we use the 2.5x5.0x0.5 mm washers underneath each shoe to allow for free movement as much as possible.
any thoughts on the quick braking?
w.
Furthermore we use the 2.5x5.0x0.5 mm washers underneath each shoe to allow for free movement as much as possible.
any thoughts on the quick braking?
w.
#2463
Tech Initiate
So I run 4x Yellow 4x xhard 1mm springs in the clutch. This is by far the best clutch setup I’ve found so far with the same engine. BUT you need to polish the inside of the end bell up to an almost mirror finish to get that little bit more snap. Use a dremel and polishing wheel with some diamond polish. Takes around an hour but the results are worth it.
I run XLi gearbox (its so much better than the old style gearbox as long as it is built accurately and carefully) so it’s difficult to advise you. However if you were quicker with the previous gearing then go back to that first. On the new gearbox I run 19/24 61/56.
I run XLi gearbox (its so much better than the old style gearbox as long as it is built accurately and carefully) so it’s difficult to advise you. However if you were quicker with the previous gearing then go back to that first. On the new gearbox I run 19/24 61/56.
bless up
#2464
Tech Regular
#2465
Would you say it's better to have a stiffer car in high grip tracks and more flex on low grip?
#2466
We're running the standard flywheel and clutch bell of the RTR. Problem is the clutch shoe springs brake really quick. 1 or 2 days of driving and bang...they brake. It doesn't matter whether we use the 0.9, 1.0 or 1.1 mm springs.
Furthermore we use the 2.5x5.0x0.5 mm washers underneath each shoe to allow for free movement as much as possible.
any thoughts on the quick braking?
w.
Furthermore we use the 2.5x5.0x0.5 mm washers underneath each shoe to allow for free movement as much as possible.
any thoughts on the quick braking?
w.
#2467
#2468
Hey guys finally getting around to putting my 3.1 shock towers on. What screws go where for the suspension mounts? All looks confusing to me. Is there any instructions on which screws are used for where? There are 4 longer screws too with 2.5mm hex drive, and then all the smaller rounded head screws. And also 4 lock nuts. Really unsure which goes where.
Also noticed in trying to put the screws into the back of the upper shock mounts, to mount to the shock tower, the thread was very stiff and almost feels like
It doesn't want to take that screw. Confused!!
Also noticed in trying to put the screws into the back of the upper shock mounts, to mount to the shock tower, the thread was very stiff and almost feels like
It doesn't want to take that screw. Confused!!
#2469
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Hey guys finally getting around to putting my 3.1 shock towers on. What screws go where for the suspension mounts? All looks confusing to me. Is there any instructions on which screws are used for where? There are 4 longer screws too with 2.5mm hex drive, and then all the smaller rounded head screws. And also 4 lock nuts. Really unsure which goes where.
Also noticed in trying to put the screws into the back of the upper shock mounts, to mount to the shock tower, the thread was very stiff and almost feels like
It doesn't want to take that screw. Confused!!
Also noticed in trying to put the screws into the back of the upper shock mounts, to mount to the shock tower, the thread was very stiff and almost feels like
It doesn't want to take that screw. Confused!!
(1) the 4 longer screws (2.5mm cap screws) are for the UPPER shock mount. First, use the black cone washer along with the 2.5 hex screws....LONGER one for the rear shock, shorter one for the front shocks. then mount to the shock tower, then screw in the offset spacer (greenish gray color thingy), same thing, longer for rear shorter for front. Then mount the shock on and use the locknut to close it. Yes I believed they machined the thread at the end "tight" for some reason, just need to screw it in a little and it will thread it in...
(2) Lower mount are the same as the GT2.0, one button screw (longer one for the rear shock shorter one for the front shock) and one set screws for each lower mount, simple as that.
Last edited by Solara; 09-25-2017 at 10:27 AM.
#2470
Thanks for the detailed info solara,
But That's weird-
Look at the serpent page and it seems to me that the longer ones are at the front to offset the shocks so they don't bump into the camber links. They also in these photos seem to have the original screws into the shock itself, and a button screw as the mount to the tower.
Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Upgrade set suspension 811 GT - Images
But That's weird-
Look at the serpent page and it seems to me that the longer ones are at the front to offset the shocks so they don't bump into the camber links. They also in these photos seem to have the original screws into the shock itself, and a button screw as the mount to the tower.
Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Upgrade set suspension 811 GT - Images
#2471
I also just tried to fit the longer cap screws as you suggested. The shorter ones worked with the shorter shock mounts.
The longer cap screws didn't even with the longer shock mount and the spacer for the cap screw.. The non-threaded section wouldn't screw in far enough to be able to screw in flush with the shock tower. Ie the non threaded section Hit the thread about 2mm too soon. That is including using the spacer. This means my upper shock mount has 2mm of wobble.
The longer cap screws didn't even with the longer shock mount and the spacer for the cap screw.. The non-threaded section wouldn't screw in far enough to be able to screw in flush with the shock tower. Ie the non threaded section Hit the thread about 2mm too soon. That is including using the spacer. This means my upper shock mount has 2mm of wobble.
#2472
The black cone washer needs to be 2mm thicker to make it work OR the longer 2.5mm hex cap screw needs to be threaded the whole way instead of non threaded the last 10mm or so. Make sense?
Problem is, if I use a washer to space it the extra mm or two, it would give me not enough thread at the other end to bolt the lock nut onto.
All else is working fine now!
Problem is, if I use a washer to space it the extra mm or two, it would give me not enough thread at the other end to bolt the lock nut onto.
All else is working fine now!
#2473
So where can I get the new suspension upgrade kit 600985????
Last edited by petersen114; 06-08-2018 at 03:57 PM.
#2474
Plenty in stock at Serpent America/Desoto
https://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/...1&cat=0&page=1
Also here if you are not in the US
RC Market
https://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/...1&cat=0&page=1
Also here if you are not in the US
RC Market
#2475
We're running the standard flywheel and clutch bell of the RTR. Problem is the clutch shoe springs brake really quick. 1 or 2 days of driving and bang...they brake. It doesn't matter whether we use the 0.9, 1.0 or 1.1 mm springs.
Furthermore we use the 2.5x5.0x0.5 mm washers underneath each shoe to allow for free movement as much as possible.
any thoughts on the quick braking?
w.
Furthermore we use the 2.5x5.0x0.5 mm washers underneath each shoe to allow for free movement as much as possible.
any thoughts on the quick braking?
w.
That said, we run the RTR cars in the UK under a 'stock/RTR' class and I have 2 buddies who ran the whole season and did zero maintenance on the car and clutch and didn't break anything including the clutch springs.