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Old 07-05-2013, 01:15 AM   #286
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I mounted the xray spring and lid on my HB tank yesterday, no problem (it was hard thoue as the spring is harder)? But i later just replaced the soft HB spring with a xray (stock lid etc) and it was much better and the lid are now closing correctly.

// roland
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:16 AM   #287
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I'm still getting used to the car to be honest. Most likely its capable of going faster than I can drive it. Maybe you can give some things to try though. The track we run on is quite bumpy and has low grip. The first half of the track has some fast flowing corners and the last half has slower tight hair-pin corners
You will have to explain how your car is behaving, what your problems are.

// Roland
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:41 PM   #288
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how did u get the the pin back in with the xray spring and lid? I ran my R10 in The Queensland (State) Titles over the weekend. The car was really good all weekend, and it took a fair beating as I was not used to the track or the power of a GRP pro tourer motor. Anyways I managed to finish 8th in the A main. It was a really good experience and my r10 did itself proud. :-D
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Old 07-30-2013, 02:34 AM   #289
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It was no problem, done it to a couple of tanks now. You dont need to use the lid, just replace the stock spring with the harder xray and you will be fine.

Check your chassi after every race as they get bent really fast/easy even if you dont crash....
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:19 AM   #290
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Seems to be a lack of development on this car by Hot Bodies since it was released. Was impressed with how Richards held up over the weekend of racing with a more powerful engine. The fuel lid is a pain..
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Old 07-30-2013, 01:29 PM   #291
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Well guys,

Finally got to race test the R10 ... was a really nice Sunday of racing at my local Club during last stage of the first semester open onroad championship (at the end is like a pre-nats as usually all top drivers use this races to practice and test equipment).

I went with the box setup, just changed rear shock oil for a little lighter one and thats it.

The car is amazingly easy to drive, and even too much hooked up on the rear, so i have lots of work up front on setup lol ! ...

I was finishing the break inn of my Reds .12 3T WC so i didnt had the chance to put me 100% agressive on engine.

On qualifying, i merely got the chance to put myself into A-Main on last spot, so at least that was a good thing.

Then over the 30 minutes A-Main, i got 3rd place so end of weekend, 100% happy. I have a big national event in October and December and will not have the chance to practice so much in the middle as i will be out of country because of my job, but i will do my best to get all performance out this baby. Right now im on top spot of national championship, with 3 stages to go but because of job i will only race 2 of them, and this year this is worlds spot nats so im crossing fingers to get at leats 2 x 3rds on the last 2 races and get a world spot for 2014 worlds ...

Here couple pics, thanks for all the help and tips ! :













PS : - Can anyone share a list of already tested compatible parts from other cars with R10 ?, thanks ...



cya !!
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:23 PM   #292
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I'm running the R10. Overall I like the car, I was running a MTX5 before. IMHO both cars drive really well and both haves ups and downs. Overall I feel the R10 is a better driving car, but less durable.

So here are my complaints: I have noticed the servo saver and front arms don't hold up to abuse at all. The fuel tank also leaked after a few tanks, replaced it 3 times and still had the same problem. I resolved the issue by using a o-ring out of a mugen tank I had and modified the lid with a stiffer spring.

Aside from that I have to say the car drives VERY well. Very smooth to drive. From where I stand right now the only other car I would consider to drive is an x-ray. just my .02 If anyone has any specific questions about the car I'll try to answer them.
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:18 AM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ec1 View Post
Some remarks:

1. Check your rear driveshaft as they are to long for most wheel offsets.
I am using KM wheel shafts and dogbones (kyosho also fits).
2. Check your gas tank so its closes, seams like the o-ring expands from the oil in the fuel. The spring is also very soft. The xray tank lid and spring fits.
3. We had some differential gears that has lost teets, i am using xray diffs front+rear.

Also i am getting air in my shocks pretty fast, going to try other o-rings and kyosho piston shafts.

Stock clutch is good if you replace the thrust bearing (stock is crap) and insert a harder spring. i am using the new 1/8 xray sping (Us1) tigtened 0,05mm and a 0,5mm gap.

I am also using Ride springs black rear and mostly purple or red front.
Harder shock oils 550-650. Raise the shocks up together with the soft Ride springs. also try to use the inner rear camberlink hole (longer link) for a more progressive rear end. Use shims on the rear wheel hub to get more steering.

Sadly i had little time to test but the car seems fast and easy to drive

// roland
Roland,

Having helped Richard last weekend at our State titles, we discovered the car is wider then 200mm at the stock settings with our Matrix tyres we are running. So am now going to revisit the KM rear drive shafts and outdrives.

Your also right about the chassis plate, we have pulled the car down and it is sitting up at the front and the back on the bench. I had this issue with the old Team Magic G4S and even after flattening the chassis it would tweak again with the radio tray installed an tensioned down. Did you replace yours or just straightened and re-use it again?

Look forward to hearing from you!

Andrew
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:26 AM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Well guys,

Finally got to race test the R10 ... was a really nice Sunday of racing at my local Club during last stage of the first semester open onroad championship (at the end is like a pre-nats as usually all top drivers use this races to practice and test equipment).

I went with the box setup, just changed rear shock oil for a little lighter one and thats it.

The car is amazingly easy to drive, and even too much hooked up on the rear, so i have lots of work up front on setup lol ! ...

I was finishing the break inn of my Reds .12 3T WC so i didnt had the chance to put me 100% agressive on engine.

On qualifying, i merely got the chance to put myself into A-Main on last spot, so at least that was a good thing.

Then over the 30 minutes A-Main, i got 3rd place so end of weekend, 100% happy. I have a big national event in October and December and will not have the chance to practice so much in the middle as i will be out of country because of my job, but i will do my best to get all performance out this baby. Right now im on top spot of national championship, with 3 stages to go but because of job i will only race 2 of them, and this year this is worlds spot nats so im crossing fingers to get at leats 2 x 3rds on the last 2 races and get a world spot for 2014 worlds ...

Here couple pics, thanks for all the help and tips ! :



PS : - Can anyone share a list of already tested compatible parts from other cars with R10 ?, thanks ...



cya !!
Pato:

So far Richard has used Xray diffs front and rear with no issues, and we understand that all three Xray NT1 belts are interchangeable as well are the front and rear Capricorn belts from the C01/C02.

The stock side belt stretches quite fast and you can't get any extra tension on it from the stock side belt tensioner. Maybe Tough Racing have a slightly shorter belt that might be a better option in the end...

http://www.toughracing.com

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:30 AM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Roland,

Having helped Richard last weekend at our State titles, we discovered the car is wider then 200mm at the stock settings with our Matrix tyres we are running. So am now going to revisit the KM rear drive shafts and outdrives.

Your also right about the chassis plate, we have pulled the car down and it is sitting up at the front and the back on the bench. I had this issue with the old Team Magic G4S and even after flattening the chassis it would tweak again with the radio tray installed an tensioned down. Did you replace yours or just straightened and re-use it again?

Look forward to hearing from you!

Andrew
The chassi usually gets bent between the engine and radioplate, espacially if you are using lots of brakes... i usually replace the chassi after every race meeting.

Use one shock oring as a spacer if you are using KM dogbone/wheelshaft as they are a bit short.

// Roland
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:31 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Pato:

So far Richard has used Xray diffs front and rear with no issues, and we understand that all three Xray NT1 belts are interchangeable as well are the front and rear Capricorn belts from the C01/C02.

The stock side belt stretches quite fast and you can't get any extra tension on it from the stock side belt tensioner. Maybe Tough Racing have a slightly shorter belt that might be a better option in the end...

http://www.toughracing.com

Thanks
Andrew
The toughtracing belts are very good, use the middle belt for the Velox 1/10 as its the correct length.

// Roland
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:19 AM   #297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ec1 View Post
The chassi usually gets bent between the engine and radioplate, espacially if you are using lots of brakes... i usually replace the chassi after every race meeting.

Use one shock oring as a spacer if you are using KM dogbone/wheelshaft as they are a bit short.

// Roland
Why in gods world would u run a car that needs a chassis after every race!!!!! That's the craziest s#!+ i ever read on here..........smh u my friends r running the wrong car!!! You just said that u change the single most expensive part of your car after every race meeting....."WHAT" N i don't think u guys have any team support in here, the top r10 drivers don't visit this forum at all, actually they only race nitro for the worlds!!! Lol goodluck!!
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:23 PM   #298
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Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Why in gods world would u run a car that needs a chassis after every race!!!!! That's the craziest s#!+ i ever read on here..........smh u my friends r running the wrong car!!! You just said that u change the single most expensive part of your car after every race meeting....."WHAT" N i don't think u guys have any team support in here, the top r10 drivers don't visit this forum at all, actually they only race nitro for the worlds!!! Lol goodluck!!
Think i exaggerated a bit, i replace the chassie after 3-4liters. thats alitlle earlier then i did in the V1rrr days. In big meetings (europén/world championships etc) i did replace chassies severaltimes, so do/did most drivers!

//roland
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:36 PM   #299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1evo RRR Driver View Post
Why in gods world would u run a car that needs a chassis after every race!!!!! That's the craziest s#!+ i ever read on here..........smh u my friends r running the wrong car!!! You just said that u change the single most expensive part of your car after every race meeting....."WHAT" N i don't think u guys have any team support in here, the top r10 drivers don't visit this forum at all, actually they only race nitro for the worlds!!! Lol goodluck!!


DANG Chet, your going to complain about replacing a chassis after a couple runs when you replaced your WHOLE car after a couple runs....
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:36 PM   #300
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wow, chassis replacement every 3-4L? now that's one very expensive rc car to run
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