itchy b

iTrader: (2)

the grub screws that go up from the bottom lock the blade sway bar in position, the grub screw that go down from the top is for the down stops which are'nt usually used much

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

I'm thinking about getting a Mongoose. This will be my first 10th scale belt car. What parts do I need for upgrade and replacing potential breakable parts?

BimmerDriver

Save money and go directly to the G4S thread. The $200 that you will need later to upgrade the Mongoose to the G4S chassis is offset by the cost of the (much better) UFO clutch included with the G4S. Also the G4S includes the receiver battery pack and a slick switch too. All of the "hop-ups" you would have to buy for the Mongoose are included in the G4S.

As far as spare parts go, I believe you should at least have front & rear arms and hub carriers.

Now if all you want to do is bash... disregard the above, buy the Mongoose and play in the street. Better yet, buy the Team Magic Le Mans G4, comes RTR with .15 engine and Futaba radio for $390.

Winner's Circle

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I know its a different car, but can this kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Magic-Perim...QQcmdZViewItem

be used in the RD Mongoose?

I want to get the G4S conversion but I think its a waste of money since you don't get a complete conversion

4F1Racing

The perimeter kit aka crash kit is for G4 cars.

I am not sure what you mean by not being a complete conversion. The parts not included are on your car and only need to be transferred to new chassis. The conversion kit is NOT a car kit... it is to convert your G4 and make it like the G4S. And has all the parts to do so, chassis, carbon top plate, battery, steering cam, adj steering linkage, manuel, and radio mounts etc. This converts your present G4 to a G4S for $185.00. Or buy the Kit for $389.00( can call for my pricing).

The kit is complete and Team Magic made sure of that before offering this product. It is just a choice for you or any other person that presently has a G4. Nice to have options!

Sam

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

that crash kit can be use in both Mongoose and G4S,

I recommand you get the real G4S as I do, I have Mongoose, I infuse 2 into 1 and use rest of part as spare

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

well I have the mongoose right now and I'm real happy with it, I can keep up with some MXr-4s at the track and those are 1/8th on-roads.


I will get the conversion kit (which does not include the UFO clutch to make it a complete conversion) in the summer when I get a job. (IM BROKE )


anyways I just wanted to know if that crash kit would be 100% compatible with my Mongoose, I don't want to buy it and have a part that doesnt fit.

4F1Racing

The crash kit is 100% compatable with your G4. You sound like a very good driver... when you can convert your car you will be amazed due to the balance and steering from your car.

Have Fun !

Sam

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

yea, too much steering, I have to use non-split overdrive and severe rear toe+camber to reduce it

British Menace

I have just gotton the 'crash kit'... its great ! Just what you want when your racing.
All the parts that could (and do.... ) break whan you kiss the boards.

Great kit .....great idea to put them all in the one bag.......and a great price too.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

british menance which verson of the g4 do u have? g4/evo/mongoose/G4S ?


K then I will buy the crash kit, I was just wonder if it was 100% because I noticed that like the G4S has more positioning holes on the front shock tower then the mongoose, so if that was different, maybe other parts were, but if its 100% compatible I will take your word for it



also are the plastic parts just replacements? same plastic as the stocks? cause I saw that Kfactory makes hard composite a-arms and such and I was just wonder what plastic it is, if its stock thats still ok, stock isnt that easy to break neither

Self I have a question, do you own/ work for raceday hobbies?

if so what do you recommend for my steering turnbuckles, my current ones keep unscrewing and changing my toe angle so I never have constant steering for more then 10 laps.

I was just gonna buy new rod ends, but which? RPM makes nice ones but they are huge

sharkonwheels

iTrader: (1)

Can someone make a (brief) summary of the G4 series cars, and the differences? It's kind of confusing...

Let's see.....you have:


G4 E-Class
G4 S-Class
G4 Evo
G4 S
RD Logics Mongoose

I'll leave the RTR's out of the picture...


Thanks!

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

i found that the stock arms and hubbs are much harder to break than the k'factory ones which are a little on the brittle side and dont have any give.
you can try the mugen rod ends part HO867 for ball and CO111Cfor rod end
they are screwed to the hubb and will last longer cause you're not poping them off and snapping them back on all the time, and would be better quality
than the grp's and a little more compact too

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

i searched those part numbers on mugen and those parts dont match those numbers

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

those part numbers i got straight out of the instruction manuel, maybe its a misprint