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Old 05-21-2006, 06:10 PM
  #2026  
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You're right that this is a Mongoose thread. As the previous poster states, there is golden information in the previous 68 pages that is enough to get your mongoose to compete. You'll see we've all loved and praised the mongoose in the past and this is the only reason we prgressed to the new car in the first place(and lets face it, even Team Magic doesn't say it's new because they wanted it to be an evolution so it's customers could rely on their current/existing parts stock).

I know that casaval racing is an RD Logics sponsored team so I guess you have every right to be trying to do the best thing for your sponsor. I expect nothing less. I guess you have to make sure you don't use any hopups for the Mongoose that are distributed by someone else.

As for the upgrade being 'just a means of emptying peoples pockets' I think you really need to read through this entire thread for all the good info and the shortfall of the car compared to the latest generation cars. The G4s is there to address these shortfalls and it does a damn good job of it, while still letting me use all my drivetrain and suspension spares. Nobody has to upgrade anything. If you want that last .5 of a second though you're going to need to.

So do yourself a favour and realise that we love the Team Magic cars. After all this is what a Mongoose is.
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Old 05-21-2006, 06:34 PM
  #2027  
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Its cool. I'll continue to follow this thread.
I have seen the entire thread.
Been following quitely.
Reseaching.
Just wanted to keep focus on the Mongoose.
I too love Team Magic. I think they are a good influence to us all.
So lets continue to to progress.
Good Luck to all, Lets get these G4's of ours up front.

Anybody have a good Spring Rate or wieght for the Mongoose?
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:05 PM
  #2028  
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Default Weights......

Hi Eagleone,

All good points made... now, back to the car.
I have the official spring rates from tm of thire springs and also the rates I got from measureing four of each spring and averaging them out.
They do end up slightly different.
The springs are always the same.
As for the official weight of the mongoose.... mine has a few upgrades on now which has effected the weight.
Mine is now 1732g
I think they come stock at 1720 if memory serves me well ?? .....in there lies the problem....lol

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
I hope this is what you were after......
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:38 PM
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So what are the rates? Maybe you can e-mail them to me.
This would help the my Team. Speed upto date with the G4 developement.
We just recently adopted the G4 as officail car, over the Serpent.
Reason being, is its affordablity and performance. We wanted to stay
grounded to the general Racers,and thier Budget. So we tightened ourselves
with RDLogics and of course TM and K Factory products.
Serpent still remains an official car, but this year G4 will be our focus.
But we've lagged back in developement of our own cars due to failing weather conditions and higher past focus on our Electric Car racers.
So thats why now I join this Thread to catch up.


As for the increased wieght on your car, should not effect your performance so long as its properly distributed. Little extra grams doesn't hurt

Keep it coming! More and More Info.
Lets maybe briefly go over whats been said before in terms of Setup.
Sort of a reminder session for everybody, and effort to Get my Team up to Speed.
Want to put some new found passion into the G4.
Have you tried a geared front diff?
and the Rear Ball diff? Haven't seem to see it in this thread.


Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2006, 07:48 PM
  #2030  
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Spring Rates.
Team Magic Springs.

Wire Dia.(mm) -------------Colour--------------------------------------Rate (lb/”)

1.2 ------------------- Lime Green -------------- -------------------- 12
1.3 ------------------ Dark Pink ----------------- -------------------- 15
1.4 ------------------ Light Orange ----------------- -------------------- 18
1.5 ------------------ Dark Purple ----------------- -------------------- 23
1.6 ------------------ Green/Aqua ----------------- -------------------- 32
1.6 ------------------ Silver(stock) ------------------ --------------------- 35
1.7 ------------------ Light Blue ------------------ -------------------- 40
1.8 ------------------ Orange ------------------ -------------------- 45
1.9 ------------------ Grey ------------------ --------------------- 58
Hi
Hope this helps.
Have tried front diff, and I like it on low to med grip tracks. Although I really prefere the solid (spool) upfront.
The ball diff works well, although I've never bought one, they are very heavy.
Updates on improving the g4.....
Glue the bladders to the eyelets on the shocks,this will stop any leaks.
Enlarge the holes in the rear shock pistons to 1.2mm. Try starting at 50wt oil. This really improves the rear damping.
Reduce the front track by taking material off the bottom wishbones. Bringing the track down to 196 - 7 really improves the steering.
Reduce the cars wheelbase.By around 2mm cutting material from the front of the rear bottom wishbones. This does help the car 'rotate so much better.
Get the new U.F.O clutch. Its the best clutch out there right now. Really consistant.
Use the red spring for low grip tracks , orange (1.7mm) for medium to high bite and yellw clutch spring for high bite. I would use both clutch weights when you set the clutch up too.
Car really works well using alot of camber 3 to 4 degrees is not uncommon ! With 2 to 3 degrees of toe-in too.
I know this sounds drastic, but it works !!
Get the G4S conversion kit. This upgrades the car to the new G4S. With a better weight distribution.
Place your receiver in a balloon.....just to be on the safe side.

I think thats the main points...
I'm out of breath now....lol
Hope this works for you. Good luck racing. The g4 is winning races all over the world now. Don't worry. YOU HAVE A GREAT CAR !
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Old 05-23-2006, 07:53 PM
  #2031  
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Oh and.....

Almost forgot.

Reduce the length of the two speed adjusting screws by 1.5mm.
When at stock length, they have a tendancy to dig into the two speed bell !

On that point. Start with these at 5 1/4 to 5 1/2 turns out from fully seated on the spring.(The two speed adjustment screws that is ... )
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:03 PM
  #2032  
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Perfect thanks. This info probally took off 2 or 3 weeks work work off my back. Thanks. I'll do all that and report these to my team mates who are also
changing to G4.

One thing. Reducing the Track, We usually look for more track for grip,
You saying to reduce it, I'll give it a try.What Caster is recommended with this track size.

3 to 4 degrees Camber, nice. What if I'm rolling 58mm tires, should it be the same, what hole position do you have the Upper arms at.

Thanks for the spring rates too.
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:38 PM
  #2033  
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The reduction in front track helps the front to role a little more. With such a low front centre of gravity, the front doesn't role half as much as the rear. With such 'skewed role', some front end grip is lost. This is an attempt to get away from that situation.
If you run the spool, I would centre the castor. (2mm clips at rear) If you go with the one way, I would try going to 1mm clip at rear, giving a higher castor angle.

At the rear... there's no problem running 58mm. If you are going to get onto a high bite track, you may want to run an overdrive. Change the front/side pully from the stock 27 tooth to the 26 and run the rear tires 3mm larger than the front. With the smaller pully, the rollout will be the same. Then it will enable you to run the same ride hight but because of the larger tires, your role centre will be lower.
Run the top rear camber links-
Inner ... bottom hole.
Outer .. Top hole.

One thing.... I found by reducing the wheelbase by 2 - 2.5mm gives alot more rotation in the car. You may want to try this first. You may find you have enough front end grip and power steering after doing that without cutting down the front track.
Also, try to run the steering tie rods to the rear most hole in the front uprights. If you hit a good set up, the rear most hole gives you a better akermen and mid corner steering will be better.
Hope all this helps.
Tony
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Old 05-27-2006, 04:46 PM
  #2034  
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does anyone know about the steering system motorman was working on?? does anyone have one??
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:16 AM
  #2035  
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Default Steering System

Yes.
The bellcrank steering motorman was working on has now been incorporated into the latest G4. Namely the G4s.Along with alot of other improvements.
You can also get this system to fit the G4C,E , Evo etc. by getting the g4 conversion kit.
This also includes the new electronics layout.
Tony
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Old 05-28-2006, 12:23 PM
  #2036  
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ok so i can get that steering system for my g4? i got the blue k-factory chassis on it. i really didnt want to get the g4s kit if i didnt have to. i like my setup the way it is but just wanted to add that steering system in it. please let me know & if anyone knows a parts list it would be great.
thanks
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Old 05-29-2006, 02:04 AM
  #2037  
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As the menace says, the most cost efficient way to get that steering set is to get the upgrade set.

See, the problem with changing just the steering is that you need to buy the new chassis, and once you have the new chassis, you'll need the new servo mounts....and the new top plate....and the new battery. So as it turns out, all those parts are integrated in some way or another.

Otherwise, you can buy the parts and guestimate where the hole goes for the bottom bolt and hope you get it in the right spot for the right geometry. That hole in the blue chassis is not in the right spot for this new steering system ( I checked once I got my G4s).

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 05-29-2006, 09:51 AM
  #2038  
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Default steering

As Zoom says, to make up the new steering system on its own would be a magor piece of work.
I too run the K factory chassis on my G4E. Both the 3 and 4mm ones

But to use these chassis and use the new steering parts would be difficult but possible.
For around $200 you should get the upgrade kit, not only due you get all the steering parts you also get the associated parts. Including a new top deck, chassis, battery pack, servo mounts and receiver mount.
You get the new side braces too.
I would recomend you get this kit.
The mongoose handles well, but as the s , it would handle and corner better.
Good luck.
Tony
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Old 05-29-2006, 06:15 PM
  #2039  
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ok thanks i think i will stay with what i got & over the winter either get the upgrade kit or get the g4s
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:41 AM
  #2040  
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A little while ago, I felt the same way.

I acutally don't have a problem with the Mongoose steering system. I find that something about it makes even the slowest servo perform like a champ. (and it sure as hell isn't those tight azz ball cups )

So given that I'm cool with the steering set up, I figured I would stick with the Mongoose. But after noticing some handling quirks(steering better to one side) and putting my car on the included balancing pegs, I just could no longer stand to have a car that was SO much heavier on one side than the other. I mean its bad as is, but when you stick a standard transponder on there, its even worse. It makes the car handle great to the right, but not nearly as well to the left.

Thats why I decided to bite the bullet and go for the upgrade. The balance is just so much better...or atleast it looks like it should be. It includes a new battery pack (200mah higher than the pack I use now), comes with their cool "12cm wire set" to easily set up the 'no switch' system with the (now hidden) reciever, and of course the new steering system. So I figure with everything that is included, for $189 its a real bargin. I'm not too happy about giving up my blue chassis and blue braces, but o'well.

I'll probably be ordering it in the next few days.
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