GT 1/8 Scale Rules and Set-Up Information
06-14-2011, 04:19 PM
#106
Herrsavage,
Why is it that you always want to blame me when someone else starts a fight with me?
Not trying to bash, just trying to figure out why you're not saying anything about that guy mark who started the crap?
No worry, Time for another pretty GT Warrior body picture.
Every time someone wants to attack our fine product I'll just post a pretty picture of it, its cool I got plenty of them!
Why is it that you always want to blame me when someone else starts a fight with me?
Not trying to bash, just trying to figure out why you're not saying anything about that guy mark who started the crap?
No worry, Time for another pretty GT Warrior body picture.
Every time someone wants to attack our fine product I'll just post a pretty picture of it, its cool I got plenty of them!
06-14-2011, 04:21 PM
#107
Jspeed, that is some butthurt you got going on right there and the troll succeeded in making it itchy.
06-14-2011, 07:32 PM
#108
Not AGAIN!
Originally Posted by mgodson
Nice to see guy's focused on having fun. Let's keep it that way! Make a point of helping the new guy, keep the racing close, and don't forget to laugh.
Marks's post: I just want to point out a rule that states
Rear wing and/or spoiler/flap must be attached to the actual body. (No chassis mounted or “Buggy/Truggy” type wing mounts)
So now how is the IPANEMA body legal??? It states attached not molded in?? Just a quick not. I will make sure that the local track know about this.. So not does his body have to run in a different class??? or not at all??
(
I wonder how long it will take jeff to see this an blow a gasket)__________________
MUGEN RACING
M.A.D. Racing products
TC Hobby's
BOOOMMM!!!
I just want to point out a rule that states
Rear wing and/or spoiler/flap must be attached to the actual body. (No chassis mounted or “Buggy/Truggy” type wing mounts)
So now how is the IPANEMA body legal??? It states attached not molded in?? Just a quick not. I will make sure that the local track know about this.. So not does his body have to run in a different class??? or not at all??
Rear wing and/or spoiler/flap must be attached to the actual body. (No chassis mounted or “Buggy/Truggy” type wing mounts)
So now how is the IPANEMA body legal??? It states attached not molded in?? Just a quick not. I will make sure that the local track know about this.. So not does his body have to run in a different class??? or not at all??
So folks.. i go back and look on the thread to see what was said.. Let's face it after getting a ton of pm's and few calls... I had to see
...and started laughing...
You two goof balls must have some past.... Mark..Really!?
not pressing any buttons, huh??? Dip .. grow up...
Ya shit stirrer!!! Jeff.. what are you tarded'!!
SOOOO ya stepped right in it... you knew it was shit.. but noooo..lets step in it anyway.. Both of you abortions knock it off!!!
no more, WE ARE ALL SICK OF IT!!!
not on my thread.... we are here to share ideas .. show the new guy how much fun this class is and Maybe one day all get a chance to race together and share laughs and beers.. Understood!!? .. good..no one does this again... now that this is solved.. moving on..( that was in my mad parent voice)
For Gods sake.. don make me unsubscribe to my own thread..
Last edited by Clete Landefeld; 06-16-2011 at 08:15 AM.
06-15-2011, 05:12 AM
#109
Clete,
You are absolutely correct, in that I shouldn’t have fed the troll yesterday. For that I apologize to you and the thread’s readers.
Please bear in mind that those trolls are part an orchestrated effort to attack our products anywhere there are public GT discussions.
Unfortunately, their negative attacks are not only limited to internet forum threads like this one, but have actually spilled over to race tracks where GT racers use our products.
These are the realities that exist in our emerging GT racing class and simply wanted readers to be aware it.
I will refrain from entertaining trolls as much as humanly possible, but wish to leave you all with this to think about…..
Why is it that our dealers and loyal customers never attack our competitor’s products?
You are absolutely correct, in that I shouldn’t have fed the troll yesterday. For that I apologize to you and the thread’s readers.
Please bear in mind that those trolls are part an orchestrated effort to attack our products anywhere there are public GT discussions.
Unfortunately, their negative attacks are not only limited to internet forum threads like this one, but have actually spilled over to race tracks where GT racers use our products.
These are the realities that exist in our emerging GT racing class and simply wanted readers to be aware it.
I will refrain from entertaining trolls as much as humanly possible, but wish to leave you all with this to think about…..
Why is it that our dealers and loyal customers never attack our competitor’s products?
06-15-2011, 12:49 PM
#110
Educate Us!
So Troy has a cool setup of 2 fiber pads and 3 disks.. anyone else like this setup and will it fade over a thirty minute race... My thought is this... It may work well on a "short" course... 100'-125' straight .. but will it hold up to the giant TimeZone Raceway Park..180' + straight with many short straights .. So lots of hard braking... even the sinterd pads I have now will fade if not careful. (I also melted the srew hole in the tower
) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...
We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!! Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...
) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!!
Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...
06-15-2011, 01:27 PM
#111
So Troy has a cool setup of 2 fiber pads and 3 disks.. anyone else like this setup and will it fade over a thirty minute race... My thought is this... It may work well on a "short" course... 100'-125' straight .. but will it hold up to the giant TimeZone Raceway Park..180' + straight with many short straights .. So lots of hard braking... even the sinterd pads I have now will fade if not careful. (I also melted the srew hole in the tower) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...
We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!! Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...
) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!!
Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?... This s what dana and i use
06-15-2011, 02:00 PM
#112
Hey FGsupply.com is throwing a Grand Prix race so if anybody in Sounthern Cal is interested in racing your GT8 Nitro or GT8 Electric bring them out.
06-15-2011, 02:20 PM
#113
So Troy has a cool setup of 2 fiber pads and 3 disks.. anyone else like this setup and will it fade over a thirty minute race... My thought is this... It may work well on a "short" course... 100'-125' straight .. but will it hold up to the giant TimeZone Raceway Park..180' + straight with many short straights .. So lots of hard braking... even the sinterd pads I have now will fade if not careful. (I also melted the srew hole in the tower) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...
) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...
... thought I would give you a few brake solutions. Yes the DM1 original disk is easy to wear out. Changed to the option pad with two steel disks and had issues with the screws starting to pull through when running a longer main. Made this change and did a 1 hour race (sweeper on plus straight to tight 180 degree turn 230' total on power) with no issues. Pull the top mount out of the car, counter sink for a 3mm cup head screw on the back side and then use a 30mm length cap screw, so it becomes a "Stud". Put your brake pads on and hold with 3mm steel nylock nuts and you now can adjust the drag brake after each run if you want or need. Also helps to use the 150cc tank which "Un-Covers" the bake pad and gets more air to it. I'm testing just what you said, but not sure if it is better yet. 3 steel brake plates, 2 pads, and since you now have enough length to get the pad on pretty easy change with pulling the diff. Tell Mark Day ...... idea came from Grenade and he should laugh!!! But Doc will understand .........We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!! Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!!
Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...
06-15-2011, 02:30 PM
#115
Well since I'm probably not going to make the Time Zone Race ....... thought I would give you a few brake solutions. Yes the DM1 original disk is easy to wear out. Changed to the option pad with two steel disks and had issues with the screws starting to pull through when running a longer main. Made this change and did a 1 hour race (sweeper on plus straight to tight 180 degree turn 230' total on power) with no issues. Pull the top mount out of the car, counter sink for a 3mm cup head screw on the back side and then use a 30mm length cap screw, so it becomes a "Stud". Put your brake pads on and hold with 3mm steel nylock nuts and you now can adjust the drag brake after each run if you want or need. Also helps to use the 150cc tank which "Un-Covers" the bake pad and gets more air to it. I'm testing just what you said, but not sure if it is better yet. 3 steel brake plates, 2 pads, and since you now have enough length to get the pad on pretty easy change with pulling the diff. Tell Mark Day ...... idea came from Grenade and he should laugh!!! But Doc will understand .........
Try some Xceed or Serpent Cleaning Gum for the front diff, just make sure you are pointed where you want to go before pulling the trigger. Not saying this works, but it has been tried.
... thought I would give you a few brake solutions. Yes the DM1 original disk is easy to wear out. Changed to the option pad with two steel disks and had issues with the screws starting to pull through when running a longer main. Made this change and did a 1 hour race (sweeper on plus straight to tight 180 degree turn 230' total on power) with no issues. Pull the top mount out of the car, counter sink for a 3mm cup head screw on the back side and then use a 30mm length cap screw, so it becomes a "Stud". Put your brake pads on and hold with 3mm steel nylock nuts and you now can adjust the drag brake after each run if you want or need. Also helps to use the 150cc tank which "Un-Covers" the bake pad and gets more air to it. I'm testing just what you said, but not sure if it is better yet. 3 steel brake plates, 2 pads, and since you now have enough length to get the pad on pretty easy change with pulling the diff. Tell Mark Day ...... idea came from Grenade and he should laugh!!! But Doc will understand .........Try some Xceed or Serpent Cleaning Gum for the front diff, just make sure you are pointed where you want to go before pulling the trigger. Not saying this works, but it has been tried.
... Silly Puddy may be the place to start!
06-15-2011, 02:31 PM
#116
So Troy has a cool setup of 2 fiber pads and 3 disks.. anyone else like this setup and will it fade over a thirty minute race... My thought is this... It may work well on a "short" course... 100'-125' straight .. but will it hold up to the giant TimeZone Raceway Park..180' + straight with many short straights .. So lots of hard braking... even the sinterd pads I have now will fade if not careful. (I also melted the srew hole in the tower) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...
We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!! Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...
) Take some pictures and let know your ideas...We got the shim kits on order to take care of the clutch bell issue... I went to a Aluminum shoe to take the wear... any good insight on springs, shoe weight.. etc...
Also.. we all have been talking about diff lube weight.... spit it out boys!!
Are you changing this form 100,000Frt and 50,000 Rear?...Troy
Last edited by Troy Mckune; 06-15-2011 at 06:17 PM.
06-15-2011, 02:54 PM
#117
That is what testing is all about.
06-15-2011, 05:33 PM
#118
Tech Addict
Clete I use 2 RC8 Factory Team break disks. One in front of the 2 speed and one in the back. The material works great plus it is made with and internal aluminum structure so it basically has its own heat disipation heat sink. You need to use them with metal calipers (no pads) and the wear is also great. Our track has 2 fairly long straits so I do abuse them for 45 minutes per main. The shortest is about 150ft to an almost hairpin turn so breaks are a must. Then you come to the back strait and that one is even longer.
As far as using putty or locking the fromt diff, IMO it takes too much steerimg out of the car. I use 100k up front but I like a very reactive car. I know some guys that use up to 300k. This is triap and error since no 2 drivers are the same so my set up may not work for you.
As far as using putty or locking the fromt diff, IMO it takes too much steerimg out of the car. I use 100k up front but I like a very reactive car. I know some guys that use up to 300k. This is triap and error since no 2 drivers are the same so my set up may not work for you.
06-16-2011, 01:58 AM
#119
Clete,
You might want to consider what Jneg has posted, he knows the DM1S very well and races on a huge track.
You might want to consider what Jneg has posted, he knows the DM1S very well and races on a huge track.
06-16-2011, 08:04 AM
#120
Clete I use 2 RC8 Factory Team break disks. One in front of the 2 speed and one in the back. The material works great plus it is made with and internal aluminum structure so it basically has its own heat disipation heat sink. You need to use them with metal calipers (no pads) and the wear is also great. Our track has 2 fairly long straits so I do abuse them for 45 minutes per main. The shortest is about 150ft to an almost hairpin turn so breaks are a must. Then you come to the back strait and that one is even longer.
As far as using putty or locking the fromt diff, IMO it takes too much steerimg out of the car. I use 100k up front but I like a very reactive car. I know some guys that use up to 300k. This is triap and error since no 2 drivers are the same so my set up may not work for you.
As far as using putty or locking the fromt diff, IMO it takes too much steerimg out of the car. I use 100k up front but I like a very reactive car. I know some guys that use up to 300k. This is triap and error since no 2 drivers are the same so my set up may not work for you.