bosfan

i need help installing and putting together a front diff.
i have all the necessary parts just a few questions
do i put it together the sameway i did the rear diff?if so that means they are the same size right?
does the same belt that goes around the oneway go around the larger diff now?
whats the easiest way to take out the front oneway and put the front diff in?(like what screws need to come out )
oh i do have the wce if that makes any difference.

ghoppa

iTrader: (63)

anybody know who makes the front spool that Josh used during one of the qual's at the GLC????

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

The front diff is a lot smaller than the rear diff. If you are unsure about it, there are instructions near the back of the manual for the front diff along with part numbers.

The most important thing to remember when assembling the front diff is to not use the pulley flange with the pulley.

The same belt is used.

Yes, the front diff should be easy to install. If you are aware of how to change the front roll center, that's half the process.

-What you need to do is take the shock tower off and the 4 screws that fasten the front bulkhead caps.

-Slide off the caps and pull the one way up first, then twist is to free it from the front belt. You should take out the bearings in the process to make your job easier.

-Fit the bearings on the front diff the way they came off the one way and slip the front belt over the pulley.

-It will be hard at first to push the diff down into position because of the akward angle which stretches the belt slightly(not enough to cause harm), but once down you should be able to reinstall the dog bones and front bulkhead caps easily.

-Take care to make sure both left and right bearing cams are in the same position when you reinstall the bulkhead caps.

-Reverse the disassembly of the shock tower.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

He got that from a guy in Texas during the Sedan Nationals. It's actually very neat. My friend got one as well. It's still a one-way but instead of the two outdrives spinning independent of each other on a normal one-way, the two outdrives are connected so that when on power both wheels rotate at the same speed regardless if the car is on 3 wheels. It's really stable on bumpy tracks. There is a pin you insert in the center like the serpent oneway that locks the entire thing.

I'll see if I can get the guy's contact information.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

If I remember correctly, Ron said his car was on the stock setup except for the rear shocks being all the way down and the long position for the camber link.

The stock setup works really good for Vegas. The best tires to use were 40F and 42R at 62mm in the rear and 61mm in the front.

ghoppa

iTrader: (63)

yeah Peter,

if you can get the info on they guy in Texas, that "would be great", I wonder how it would be for our track here in Vegas....never know unless you try it......

thanks,

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

Anybody run 10,000wt rear diff's with 30,000wt front diff's for parking lot racing? just wondering if i should keep the 30,000 rear and go 50,000 in front. or change it for better steering on tight tracks. Thanks .

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I think it would be great for Vegas. I've never driven the track with the pork chop but for the layout at RD, it was pretty much point and shoot. I wish I didn't have such horrible engine problems.

ziggy12345

A normal one way will spin the wheels at the same speed on power as well. If the axles are locked it will add turn braking on corner entry same as a locked diff but will have the disadvantage of no brakes!

I cant see the point.

The guys here take a normal one way tube and lock the drives in like a locked diff but its half the weight.

doki_doki

iTrader: (2)

thanks... will try that set-up then our track is teachnical and medium sized and a bumpy...

luketob

iTrader: (2)

Can someone maybe explain what does it do to the car if you change front upper arm and lower rear arm position? what doest it do if you move it all the way up/down. the stock setup works great for me, just want to try something out, maybe someone can give me heads up. thanks

luketob

iTrader: (2)

one more thing....i don't know if it's has been discussed or not, but with the lower arm pos. on medium high, a 12.5mm shock length is not long enough for the droop screw to touch the chassis. Is it normal or not? Should it use medium ball end instead of short ones?

Dynamite

changes your front/rear roll centers.

from memory, the higher the front upper hinge pin the lower the front rollcenter, and higher the rear lower hinge pin the higher the rear rollcenter.

also regarding your shock end cups, i fairly sure i used the medium sized ones front and rear, built them to std specs and havent had a problem... hope this helps.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hey team
upgrading from the fw-05rr to the v one rrr is a dream come true

the car was sooo nice to drive i loved it.

however the only way i could get it to stop sliding out on power was to have -4 toe in at the rear, i know this sounds excessive and yeh its robbing my top end and tire wear. im using the stock setup with 37 shore tyres on a medium grip parking lot track.

can some one please recommend some other things i can try with my toe in at a reasonable amount like -2 ??

maybe i should swap the springs around and go a softer rear ?

thanks
JOhn

Dynamite

hey mrgsr.

sounds like you need to try lighter shock oil, springs and rear swaybar. also try using the inner hole for rear camber links. remember try one thing at a time!