Capricorn LAB C801 1/8 scale
#391
Hey people, i am having problems installing the turnbuckle between the steering servo and servo saver as it seems that its really tight. What servo horn measurment do you suggest as i beleive that mine is way to long. Also the plastic turnbuckle end parts seem to bind with the servo saver and servo horn resulting in not a smooth turn. Tried shaving a bit the plastic and it did get better but still not happy with result.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by xtremes; 08-07-2011 at 04:49 PM.
#392
One other thing, you have to make sure that the servo horn and the servo saver line up correctly by using the appropriate spacers when mounting the servo.....
#393
Tech Elite
Hey guys,
I have gotten a couple of emails about the 2-speed and how to keep it from wobbling and also about the roller weights that go in the shoes. I have been using filed down set screws in my shoes to have the ability to remove the wobble. I think if you inspect or monitor the 2-speed every so often then it should last a long time. I am still running the originals on my car and will likely just now change for my next race. I have run at least 5 gallons on the car and this way has worked pretty good.
If you need the part number for spare roller weights it is CAP-2128
I heard the Italian's change them after 2.5 to 3 gallons, but I would just inspect and change as needed. Like I said, mine have lasted a while with the method I use.
Hope this helps anyone that was looking to get rid of the wobble, even though the wobble does not hurt performance, it just wears out the parts faster.
DJ Apolaro
I have gotten a couple of emails about the 2-speed and how to keep it from wobbling and also about the roller weights that go in the shoes. I have been using filed down set screws in my shoes to have the ability to remove the wobble. I think if you inspect or monitor the 2-speed every so often then it should last a long time. I am still running the originals on my car and will likely just now change for my next race. I have run at least 5 gallons on the car and this way has worked pretty good.
If you need the part number for spare roller weights it is CAP-2128
I heard the Italian's change them after 2.5 to 3 gallons, but I would just inspect and change as needed. Like I said, mine have lasted a while with the method I use.
Hope this helps anyone that was looking to get rid of the wobble, even though the wobble does not hurt performance, it just wears out the parts faster.
DJ Apolaro
#394
Tech Addict
Switch Holder
Hey guys how did you mount the switch since i want to make life easier for my pitman
#396
Finally i'm making a post about the Lab C801. I bought the kit awhile back since it was my first time ever putting a kit together it was pretty straight forward. Asking questions to a few knowledgeable friends helped me put the kit together nice and clean without any hiccups. This past weekend I was finally able to get the car to go where ever I pointed her. Took me, being a newbie about 2-3 race weekends to get her just right in high grip conditions.
I still have much more to learn and test out as I just started RC racing this season.
Overall I really like the car, shes pretty, clean and goes where I want her to go. Now I just need to get better at driving and i'll be some what competitive. For anyone looking into buying this kit, the Lab handles great and can handle newbie driving mistakes into the boards lol take my words for it. The kits material is strong, I was pretty surprised at the speed these cars go that this kit could handle a beating from me.
Even though the parts "may" be a little more expensive compared to the competitors, but coming from the real race car world you always get what you pay for and I believe that goes with everything. A+ kit for me I enjoy driving mine!
I still have much more to learn and test out as I just started RC racing this season.
Overall I really like the car, shes pretty, clean and goes where I want her to go. Now I just need to get better at driving and i'll be some what competitive. For anyone looking into buying this kit, the Lab handles great and can handle newbie driving mistakes into the boards lol take my words for it. The kits material is strong, I was pretty surprised at the speed these cars go that this kit could handle a beating from me.
Even though the parts "may" be a little more expensive compared to the competitors, but coming from the real race car world you always get what you pay for and I believe that goes with everything. A+ kit for me I enjoy driving mine!
#398
Tech Addict
For sale
2 chasis for sale:
No. 1
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-1-a.html
No. 2
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-2-a.html
No. 1
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-1-a.html
No. 2
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-2-a.html
#399
Tech Addict
2 chasis for sale:
No. 1
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-1-a.html
No. 2
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-2-a.html
No. 1
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-1-a.html
No. 2
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-no-2-a.html
#400
Gear Stripping Problems
Hello Everyone, I am wondering if anyone faced gear stripping problems? I had stripped many spur gears to-date. Mainly second speed. Checked on the second speed and it seemed okay. Grub screws are not protruding from the 2 speed shoes like what DJ had mentioned in his earlier post. Engine mount ensured to be perpedicular and gear meshing tried with both tight or a little lose. Did not solve the problem. I am on the verge of losing patience on solving this. Any suggestions or helps rendered is much appreciated.
#401
:-(
Last edited by xtremes; 08-15-2011 at 11:09 AM.
#402
Hello Everyone, I am wondering if anyone faced gear stripping problems? I had stripped many spur gears to-date. Mainly second speed. Checked on the second speed and it seemed okay. Grub screws are not protruding from the 2 speed shoes like what DJ had mentioned in his earlier post. Engine mount ensured to be perpedicular and gear meshing tried with both tight or a little lose. Did not solve the problem. I am on the verge of losing patience on solving this. Any suggestions or helps rendered is much appreciated.
#403
Hello Everyone, I am wondering if anyone faced gear stripping problems? I had stripped many spur gears to-date. Mainly second speed. Checked on the second speed and it seemed okay. Grub screws are not protruding from the 2 speed shoes like what DJ had mentioned in his earlier post. Engine mount ensured to be perpedicular and gear meshing tried with both tight or a little lose. Did not solve the problem. I am on the verge of losing patience on solving this. Any suggestions or helps rendered is much appreciated.
I went back to stock 20T / 24T and never stripped again.
My 2nd gear spur also has a slight wobble, but works perfectly with the stock pinions but not with 25t pinion.
#404
If the he is not missing those connectors in the rear bulkheads then the wobble is most likely the reason his car is stripping spur gears, but the spur gears in my car wobble and I have not stripped a single one....bullygod, check to see if you have those pieces on your car !
#405
Tech Elite
Hi Guys,
Well this past weekend I tested the new aluminum bell and liked it. It has a very different feel to it, but for me it is how I like to drive. This clutch is not meant to slip. I used all the same setting, but with the spring not as tight. I would even say you could try a softer spring, but I did not have any. I basically run the spring tension from the normal .7 to .8 that I start at to .4 to .5 of thread showing. Using the same gap of .65 to .75.
This was tested on a high bite track. For low traction I would stay closer to the .6 gap range and maybe around .4 of thread showing.
You will notice that on the box the clutch looks to engage immediately, but on the track for the first lap it almost sounds tight.
DJ Apolaro
Well this past weekend I tested the new aluminum bell and liked it. It has a very different feel to it, but for me it is how I like to drive. This clutch is not meant to slip. I used all the same setting, but with the spring not as tight. I would even say you could try a softer spring, but I did not have any. I basically run the spring tension from the normal .7 to .8 that I start at to .4 to .5 of thread showing. Using the same gap of .65 to .75.
This was tested on a high bite track. For low traction I would stay closer to the .6 gap range and maybe around .4 of thread showing.
You will notice that on the box the clutch looks to engage immediately, but on the track for the first lap it almost sounds tight.
DJ Apolaro