Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

Ok this always seems to be a problem for me so i must have missed the trick somewhere.

just opened a brand new flash
just opened a brand new clutch

the flash comes with a 7mm cone, somewhere I had a 5 mm long cone but that didnt make any difference

anyways. I put it to gether.

I tried shimming it I have tried shimming it like how the book says

I have 2 full packs of mugen shims does to really matter where i put them the result is the same a lock clutch bell on the disk and i am not really even tighting it down.

in the past the ONLY way i have been able to make this work is to sand by hand the back side of the taper cone that the fly wheel goes on.

I am tired of sanding so it stops with this assembly.

what am I doing wrong, do I have the wrong cone, because i have tried more then one and cant seem to get it, am i shimming it wrong, I have tried shimming it inside the bell near the spring, I have tried shimming it near the in the location the direction call out by the trust bearing that makes it worse.

my clutch i ran at the winter nats, i sanded the cone by hand i have shims located inside the bell near the spring it works but i would like to improve and no longer have to sand

please help

thanks

West03

Wow, ok. Did I say not to try it? No I did't and I am not interested in starting any argument on the subject. With all this post about the MRX5 being so fragile others viewing this threats would think the car is made out of paper. It is just my opinion which I have the right to express and I am not one bit concern on what other would like to do to their cars as its you given right.

We all crash our cars from time to time and its part of racing. The amount of people that tell me they are not going to upgrade to the MRX5 or are looking at other brands because its too fragile from what they have read on forums is staggering. I have the right to say the car out of the box is quite strong and to also remember that its a pure race car.

Good luck in making the car crash proof.

occ

iTrader: (16)

I never use the cone that comes with the engine. Its too long for the flywheel.

I use the Mugen one, part number C0702B - Taper Cone.

gotmotor

Ran this at the RCX race in LA and had great results, I feel that I fixed the problem with the way I was hitting the boards I think everyone should post pics if you feel that you can fix the problem.....Keep hope alive

gotmotor

This is what I wanted to post

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

trying it again, found a cone thats 5.5mm maybe its the mugan one.

gotmotor

Last try

tdr170

iTrader: (3)

Actually you should end up with shims in 2 places.
The first place you should shim is to the outside of the thrust bearing to set shoe clearance then you will add shims between the clutch spring nut and the inside bearing of the clutch bell to set end play.

gotmotor

Its on page 90 damn it!!!

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

well....

The only way I have ever got that to work is to sand the cone down from the back side,

it does not matter where i put the shims or dont put them. the bell rest on the shoe.

No shims, with my finger just holding it together there is ZERO play in the bell.

Has to be something i am doing as this has always been the result without reducing the lenght of the cone

so frustrating

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

The part that the thrust bearing rides on (H0756) never has a chance to seat or but up to the tip of the crank.

If it did then i could shim however need be. even with no shims, even tighting it down by hand with my finger tips its bound, and part H0756 has never came in contact with the tip of the crank.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

If you can't get any play with no shims, shims aren't the problem. You will need a cone that will place the flywheel closer to the motor. Try that shorter one you found.

Generally I find the steel ones work better, not sure if they are Nova or Mugen or what but I have a bunch of them and they work great. The big brass ones sometimes work, sometimes don't.

tdr170

iTrader: (3)

Are you putting the cone against the outside motor bearing or are you adding a shim between the cone and the outside bearing.

Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

Smaller 5.5mm cone
goes right up to the motor bearing, I would not want to make it any longer this would make my problem worse.

reducing the cone from 5.5 to 5 works but I do not want to do that because my thought is no one else has to do that

smaller cone, no change

and there is no cone that come in a mugen kit, clutch assembly is on page 37, and ....nothing from them.

I did see you can order one and i think i have one, so far I have tried 2 cones and no dice same result

tdr170

iTrader: (3)

Strang I use a 5.5 cone and have had no problems.
How big is the gap between the motor and the back of the flywheel.