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Old 11-23-2009, 10:02 PM
  #271  
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Hello everyone
We are pleasantly surprised to see you in classic.
It's great for our class.
If you have any questions about the settlement of our class
My level of English is bad but I have some knowledge to the technical words.
For the translation of "rocket" must translate spindle axle.
I hope you understand me ...
A soon to read
Sam
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:45 AM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by Sam'
Hello everyone
We are pleasantly surprised to see you in classic.
It's great for our class.
If you have any questions about the settlement of our class
My level of English is bad but I have some knowledge to the technical words.
For the translation of "rocket" must translate spindle axle.
I hope you understand me ...
A soon to read
Sam
Welcome Sam! We did figure out what "Rocket" ment. Your english is a lot better than my French. Yes, we hope to get the "Classic" racing started in
the US.

Thanks,
Dale
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:21 AM
  #273  
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dear dale, thanks for your compliments !!

I come back about problem of diff. This element is the most important for a good setup and easy driving of pan car.
yes before in the past, we use balls diff, but we met always problems during race. Sometime need to remake it after qualification before the final (change the balls, washers). I remind we used white grease from Kyosho.

Now most of the car use gear balls and change grease depending of the track and traction. To get a harder rotation of it, we can mix "normal" grease + silicon 50 000 or 100 000 grade. Normally about 20% to 50% of silicon.

Stronger diff means more traction but also the driving will be less easy. In france we say : a diff for men !!!!!!!

If you have a soft diff and you lose traction after turning, it's possible also to modify some set-ups of the main plate. But I keep it secret in case of international races to be sure that french guy wins !!!

see you
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Old 11-24-2009, 06:38 AM
  #274  
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Originally Posted by DXF french team
dear dale, thanks for your compliments !!

I come back about problem of diff. This element is the most important for a good setup and easy driving of pan car.
yes before in the past, we use balls diff, but we met always problems during race. Sometime need to remake it after qualification before the final (change the balls, washers). I remind we used white grease from Kyosho.

Now most of the car use gear balls and change grease depending of the track and traction. To get a harder rotation of it, we can mix "normal" grease + silicon 50 000 or 100 000 grade. Normally about 20% to 50% of silicon.

Stronger diff means more traction but also the driving will be less easy. In france we say : a diff for men !!!!!!!

If you have a soft diff and you lose traction after turning, it's possible also to modify some set-ups of the main plate. But I keep it secret in case of international races to be sure that french guy wins !!!

see you
Didier,

I remember having to rebuild the Diffs was necessary. I could usually start the race weekend with a fresh Ball diff. I could get thru practice and qualifying, then I would rebuild the diff for the main. Serpent produced their "PRO DIFF slipper type" for their 235mm 835 car. That Ball diff with the slipper disc was far superior to a standard ball diff. You could adjust the ball race fairly loose and adjust the slipper disc to set the slip. Ball and washer wear was greatly reduced.

You say a mixture of "standard grease and silicone" what kind of standard grease?

Oh....I promise not tell your set-up secrets!!!

Dale
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:58 AM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by djmachinist
Didier,

You say a mixture of "standard grease and silicone" what kind of standard grease?

Oh....I promise not tell your set-up secrets!!!

Dale
hello dale,

i use only lithium grease for bearings like "CASTROL LMX" for soft diff, and add silicon oil 50 000 for modify stronger.
Never use silicon oil alone inside diff, because it don't have any power of lubrification.

you can change some setups on car for reduce the slipping of the rear wheels:
1/ modify the flexibility of the main plate : more hard by moving away the 2 central pillars on the DXF (beside the fuel tank).
2/ reduce front caster angle between 5 to 10°

In fact : more grip means diff more and more hard, and especially now with powerfull engine and centax clutch.

With the changing of these 2 setups, the car will be less easy for driving, but more efficient. To find the general right setup is more difficult with a pan car than 4x4. And one setup for track N°1 can be different than track N°2.

I hope to be clear ...
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:10 AM
  #276  
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Originally Posted by DXF french team
hello dale,

i use only lithium grease for bearings like "CASTROL LMX" for soft diff, and add silicon oil 50 000 for modify stronger.
Never use silicon oil alone inside diff, because it don't have any power of lubrification.

you can change some setups on car for reduce the slipping of the rear wheels:
1/ modify the flexibility of the main plate : more hard by moving away the 2 central pillars on the DXF (beside the fuel tank).
2/ reduce front caster angle between 5 to 10°

In fact : more grip means diff more and more hard, and especially now with powerfull engine and centax clutch.

With the changing of these 2 setups, the car will be less easy for driving, but more efficient. To find the general right setup is more difficult with a pan car than 4x4. And one setup for track N°1 can be different than track N°2.

I hope to be clear ...
Didier,
Thanks for the information, I will try it.
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:33 PM
  #277  
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Default Motonica P8C build Front end

Motonica P8C build Front end pics
Attached Thumbnails European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-005.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-006.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-007.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-008.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:37 PM
  #278  
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Default Motonica P8C build Front end part 2

Motonica P8C build Front end pics part 2
Attached Thumbnails European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-009.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-010.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-011.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:39 PM
  #279  
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Default Motonica P8C build rear end

Motonica P8C build rear end pics
Attached Thumbnails European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-012.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-013.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-014.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:40 PM
  #280  
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Default Motonica P8C build

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Attached Thumbnails European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-015.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-016.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-017.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2009, 05:46 PM
  #281  
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Default Motonica P8C build more pics 3

Motonica P8C build more pics 3

The car went together pretty easy. The diff set up is the hard part. See Didier's answer in a previous post above. I used a mixture of white lithium grease and 100,00 wt. silicone diff lube.
Attached Thumbnails European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-018.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-019.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-020.jpg   European 2wd 1/8th pan car on-road Classic class-021.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2009, 07:03 PM
  #282  
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COOL DJ,....when can we expect a track report???..........may have to unloadone of my RC250's to get one of these.......
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:17 AM
  #283  
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Just curious, is the upper brace made of carbon or is it a sandwich from frp and carbon?
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:36 AM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive
Just curious, is the upper brace made of carbon or is it a sandwich from frp and carbon?
If you are talking about the radio tray,thats carbon fiber. the flex plates under the front end are anodised black alum. plate as is the plate under the rear bulkheads.

Dale
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:27 AM
  #285  
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thanks, the car looks very nice.


You said to set ride height you had to use shims. I still don't see it in the manual or in the building pictures that you made. Did you come across shims or something else in the box to set ride height?

Could any french drivers/manufacturers conclude how they designed the cars to set ride height? Seems trivial but it bugs me that there is nothing mentioning ride height adjustments?
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