3LikesTeam Magic G4RS 2009
08-09-2009, 10:13 AM
#616
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
That is a very interesting tool! what part of the piston sleeve are you pinching?
are there any negative effects after pinching the sleeve?
We are also working on some links of interest if you like to add links to the list please let us know at [email protected]
ceramic bearing kit
http://www.acerracing.com/ball_beari...it-1171-0.html
Dario at Gubbio setup sheet(bottom of the page)
http://www.machinaria.com/TEAM_MAGIC_G4II.html
Rollout Chart creator
http://www.orrcaqld.org.au/rollout.html
Lipo Auto Balance RX 1650mah battery pack
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...20&p_catid=140
Brake pads springs(bottom of the page)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...2009-a-39.html
www.machinaria.com
are there any negative effects after pinching the sleeve?
We are also working on some links of interest if you like to add links to the list please let us know at [email protected]
ceramic bearing kit
http://www.acerracing.com/ball_beari...it-1171-0.html
Dario at Gubbio setup sheet(bottom of the page)
http://www.machinaria.com/TEAM_MAGIC_G4II.html
Rollout Chart creator
http://www.orrcaqld.org.au/rollout.html
Lipo Auto Balance RX 1650mah battery pack
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...20&p_catid=140
Brake pads springs(bottom of the page)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...2009-a-39.html
www.machinaria.com
Thanks for your comments!!
Like Blis said, I might have got lucky. I am only using this engine for practice now. I would not like to post a link until I confirm success with another engine. I only ran a few tanks and I do no know what is going to happen in a while. So what I am thinking is I may make a tool for Randy Smooth since he asked for it first, send it to him and ask him to post his results...
How is that? Is that OK?
Now, for the pinching point, that is exactly where the secret lies and I first need to ask my friend that gave me the tip if he is OK with disclosing the idea. I guess I'm only willing to be fair to him.
And I do not know what the negative effects could be. Only time will tell. I guess the only problem is that if you overtighten the sleeve then unnecessary stress will be submitted to connecting rod and crank shaft and it is almost like breaking in a new engine. If you do this on an old engine, then there is no harm.
08-09-2009, 10:33 AM
#617
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
08-09-2009, 10:38 AM
#618
Future findings
Thanks for your comments!!
Like Blis said, I might have got lucky. I am only using this engine for practice now. I would not like to post a link until I confirm success with another engine. I only ran a few tanks and I do no know what is going to happen in a while. So what I am thinking is I may make a tool for Randy Smooth since he asked for it first, send it to him and ask him to post his results...
How is that? Is that OK?
Now, for the pinching point, that is exactly where the secret lies and I first need to ask my friend that gave me the tip if he is OK with disclosing the idea. I guess I'm only willing to be fair to him.
And I do not know what the negative effects could be. Only time will tell. I guess the only problem is that if you overtighten the sleeve then unnecessary stress will be submitted to connecting rod and crank shaft and it is almost like breaking in a new engine. If you do this on an old engine, then there is no harm.
Like Blis said, I might have got lucky. I am only using this engine for practice now. I would not like to post a link until I confirm success with another engine. I only ran a few tanks and I do no know what is going to happen in a while. So what I am thinking is I may make a tool for Randy Smooth since he asked for it first, send it to him and ask him to post his results...
How is that? Is that OK?
Now, for the pinching point, that is exactly where the secret lies and I first need to ask my friend that gave me the tip if he is OK with disclosing the idea. I guess I'm only willing to be fair to him.
And I do not know what the negative effects could be. Only time will tell. I guess the only problem is that if you overtighten the sleeve then unnecessary stress will be submitted to connecting rod and crank shaft and it is almost like breaking in a new engine. If you do this on an old engine, then there is no harm.
Best regards
www.machinaria.com
08-09-2009, 11:17 AM
#619
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Thank you for your response, let us know your future findings. It could be a product people might be interested in..
Best regards
www.machinaria.com
Best regards
www.machinaria.com
08-09-2009, 04:22 PM
#620
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: (Holiday, Fl.) (CST.Allentown, Pa.)
Posts: 1,314
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
08-09-2009, 04:46 PM
#621
A pinch about my engine experiences.
Yes, I admit in my early days I was heavily experimenting these techniques with low end engines. Firstly I believe the metalurgy of alloys is the key to good engines fundamentals. We use a composite of metals and they need to expand and contract with heat together.
Im 44, I owned my first nitro engien ona cox model aeroplane when I was a young boy. That was my first bad Nitro experience and I avoided them like the pague for many years.
Getting back into RC I was very paranoid over lifecycles of engines and my first engines were low end Hyper and LRP's. Expecting to blow them up while I was learning, I realised there's more to it than meets the eye.
I pinched my SH TM 1.5 sleeve using a GAS flaring tool. and I left it crimped for too long ( note for GTRMX - Try and make a guage for turns and TIME the crimp). As the alloys are maleable on the sleeve, the pinch may take a few minutes defrom. Might want to formulate a chart etc.
I could barely get the piston up past the intakes so I called an "ALL IN" grabbed the dremel and used a barrel disk and began to hone out my sleeve by hand. Believe it or not, I ground out and then polished it (not much) put engine back together and put on starter box and it fired first time and idled like a purring pussy cat.
Excited by my achievement I went out to track and realised how lovely it idled and how quickly it deteriorated under speed. A whole 3 minutes of fantastic run time, never before achieved with this engine. but for 3 minutes.
I assume the gap between the liner and block created by the pinch allows for room to expand. Combustion then escapes down the sides of the piston and the engines gets even hotter and it snowballs and stalls. Maybe at this point it's time to UP the oil content. Old schoolers told me to run rich and let carbon deposits build up to create a better seal. I only clean with solvent (not polish) the bottom outer of the liner and ports, the top of piston, button and the block. The rest of combustion chamber components I leave coated in carbon residue.
Having said all this, I dont think the alloys in those engines were anything close to those used in Italians engines. Ive very much considered revisiting this but would also want to try a simple electroplating technique to apply more metal to the outside of the sleeve to keep the titght fit.
Atm, I use an OS TG less than 1hp "Gas Touring club class here" and Two GRP Tuned one old and low on compression and one relatively new race engine. There was an article I read from one of the buggy runners and engine maintenance procedures. Warming engine up before starts, afterrun after use, cleaning techniques, bearing maintenance, run in methods, etc etc etc All the things to do at the end of a busy race meeting.
My club GRP had a bad plug that frosted after it created a stalactite/stalagmite of platinum from the dropped plug coil and a very pitted and frosted chamber. Cleaned it up, little compression left yet still runs merrily.. so LUCK does play a part.
Im 44, I owned my first nitro engien ona cox model aeroplane when I was a young boy. That was my first bad Nitro experience and I avoided them like the pague for many years.
Getting back into RC I was very paranoid over lifecycles of engines and my first engines were low end Hyper and LRP's. Expecting to blow them up while I was learning, I realised there's more to it than meets the eye.
I pinched my SH TM 1.5 sleeve using a GAS flaring tool. and I left it crimped for too long ( note for GTRMX - Try and make a guage for turns and TIME the crimp). As the alloys are maleable on the sleeve, the pinch may take a few minutes defrom. Might want to formulate a chart etc.
I could barely get the piston up past the intakes so I called an "ALL IN" grabbed the dremel and used a barrel disk and began to hone out my sleeve by hand. Believe it or not, I ground out and then polished it (not much) put engine back together and put on starter box and it fired first time and idled like a purring pussy cat.
Excited by my achievement I went out to track and realised how lovely it idled and how quickly it deteriorated under speed. A whole 3 minutes of fantastic run time, never before achieved with this engine. but for 3 minutes.
I assume the gap between the liner and block created by the pinch allows for room to expand. Combustion then escapes down the sides of the piston and the engines gets even hotter and it snowballs and stalls. Maybe at this point it's time to UP the oil content. Old schoolers told me to run rich and let carbon deposits build up to create a better seal. I only clean with solvent (not polish) the bottom outer of the liner and ports, the top of piston, button and the block. The rest of combustion chamber components I leave coated in carbon residue.
Having said all this, I dont think the alloys in those engines were anything close to those used in Italians engines. Ive very much considered revisiting this but would also want to try a simple electroplating technique to apply more metal to the outside of the sleeve to keep the titght fit.
Atm, I use an OS TG less than 1hp "Gas Touring club class here" and Two GRP Tuned one old and low on compression and one relatively new race engine. There was an article I read from one of the buggy runners and engine maintenance procedures. Warming engine up before starts, afterrun after use, cleaning techniques, bearing maintenance, run in methods, etc etc etc All the things to do at the end of a busy race meeting.
My club GRP had a bad plug that frosted after it created a stalactite/stalagmite of platinum from the dropped plug coil and a very pitted and frosted chamber. Cleaned it up, little compression left yet still runs merrily.. so LUCK does play a part.
08-09-2009, 05:46 PM
#622
Hey Blis was good to catch up and have a good look at the car, thanks for the engine mount it saved me a hole in the manifold and allowed me to finish trhat semi and final.
I was the only G4 RS 09 driver at the recent Queensland State Championships and i was very happy with the car. First time at this track with the G4 and i dialed in the chassis straight away. I was only .3-.4 off the fastest guys in the final and i believe without the gear box issues it could have been a lot more consistent and maybe a little faster..
My issues with the car:
1. I had the one way bearing jam in the first qualifier. I had lubed it with Hudy one way oil before the event. The bearing jammed and it looks to have crushed but i wasnt able to get it off the shaft to get a good look at it. Prior to this i was having inconsistent gear changes..started off shifting too late and then would change instantly and back and forth. I checked the play in the shoes after every run and tried both a small gap and a large gap but no change. My engine builders guess from experience is the faulty one way playing up the gear changed.
2. how do we get the jammed one way off?
3. The side belt rubs on the bottom of the manifold (short novarossi manifold and 2652 pipe). I had dremeled the bottom of the manifold off but the belt was still rubbing hard into the manifold. I modified the chassis to give the screw more clearance so the engine would sit further away and this helped. Then thanks to Blis we used the one piece (nots ure of brand) off his g4 which was 1mm taller and this gave some more clearance.
4. Play in the steering ackerman post. the black bushings that come in the kit look to be the wrong size with the inner hole about .5mm too big. Has anyone found any bearings that would fit?
Apart from these issues i think the car is awesome!
I was the only G4 RS 09 driver at the recent Queensland State Championships and i was very happy with the car. First time at this track with the G4 and i dialed in the chassis straight away. I was only .3-.4 off the fastest guys in the final and i believe without the gear box issues it could have been a lot more consistent and maybe a little faster..
My issues with the car:
1. I had the one way bearing jam in the first qualifier. I had lubed it with Hudy one way oil before the event. The bearing jammed and it looks to have crushed but i wasnt able to get it off the shaft to get a good look at it. Prior to this i was having inconsistent gear changes..started off shifting too late and then would change instantly and back and forth. I checked the play in the shoes after every run and tried both a small gap and a large gap but no change. My engine builders guess from experience is the faulty one way playing up the gear changed.
2. how do we get the jammed one way off?
3. The side belt rubs on the bottom of the manifold (short novarossi manifold and 2652 pipe). I had dremeled the bottom of the manifold off but the belt was still rubbing hard into the manifold. I modified the chassis to give the screw more clearance so the engine would sit further away and this helped. Then thanks to Blis we used the one piece (nots ure of brand) off his g4 which was 1mm taller and this gave some more clearance.
4. Play in the steering ackerman post. the black bushings that come in the kit look to be the wrong size with the inner hole about .5mm too big. Has anyone found any bearings that would fit?
Apart from these issues i think the car is awesome!
08-09-2009, 06:42 PM
#624
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Kindest regards,
Lars.
08-09-2009, 08:17 PM
#625
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Yes, I admit in my early days I was heavily experimenting these techniques with low end engines. Firstly I believe the metalurgy of alloys is the key to good engines fundamentals. We use a composite of metals and they need to expand and contract with heat together.
Im 44, I owned my first nitro engien ona cox model aeroplane when I was a young boy. That was my first bad Nitro experience and I avoided them like the pague for many years.
Getting back into RC I was very paranoid over lifecycles of engines and my first engines were low end Hyper and LRP's. Expecting to blow them up while I was learning, I realised there's more to it than meets the eye.
I pinched my SH TM 1.5 sleeve using a GAS flaring tool. and I left it crimped for too long ( note for GTRMX - Try and make a guage for turns and TIME the crimp). As the alloys are maleable on the sleeve, the pinch may take a few minutes defrom. Might want to formulate a chart etc.
I could barely get the piston up past the intakes so I called an "ALL IN" grabbed the dremel and used a barrel disk and began to hone out my sleeve by hand. Believe it or not, I ground out and then polished it (not much) put engine back together and put on starter box and it fired first time and idled like a purring pussy cat.
Excited by my achievement I went out to track and realised how lovely it idled and how quickly it deteriorated under speed. A whole 3 minutes of fantastic run time, never before achieved with this engine. but for 3 minutes.
I assume the gap between the liner and block created by the pinch allows for room to expand. Combustion then escapes down the sides of the piston and the engines gets even hotter and it snowballs and stalls. Maybe at this point it's time to UP the oil content. Old schoolers told me to run rich and let carbon deposits build up to create a better seal. I only clean with solvent (not polish) the bottom outer of the liner and ports, the top of piston, button and the block. The rest of combustion chamber components I leave coated in carbon residue.
Having said all this, I dont think the alloys in those engines were anything close to those used in Italians engines. Ive very much considered revisiting this but would also want to try a simple electroplating technique to apply more metal to the outside of the sleeve to keep the titght fit.
Atm, I use an OS TG less than 1hp "Gas Touring club class here" and Two GRP Tuned one old and low on compression and one relatively new race engine. There was an article I read from one of the buggy runners and engine maintenance procedures. Warming engine up before starts, afterrun after use, cleaning techniques, bearing maintenance, run in methods, etc etc etc All the things to do at the end of a busy race meeting.
My club GRP had a bad plug that frosted after it created a stalactite/stalagmite of platinum from the dropped plug coil and a very pitted and frosted chamber. Cleaned it up, little compression left yet still runs merrily.. so LUCK does play a part.
Im 44, I owned my first nitro engien ona cox model aeroplane when I was a young boy. That was my first bad Nitro experience and I avoided them like the pague for many years.
Getting back into RC I was very paranoid over lifecycles of engines and my first engines were low end Hyper and LRP's. Expecting to blow them up while I was learning, I realised there's more to it than meets the eye.
I pinched my SH TM 1.5 sleeve using a GAS flaring tool. and I left it crimped for too long ( note for GTRMX - Try and make a guage for turns and TIME the crimp). As the alloys are maleable on the sleeve, the pinch may take a few minutes defrom. Might want to formulate a chart etc.
I could barely get the piston up past the intakes so I called an "ALL IN" grabbed the dremel and used a barrel disk and began to hone out my sleeve by hand. Believe it or not, I ground out and then polished it (not much) put engine back together and put on starter box and it fired first time and idled like a purring pussy cat.
Excited by my achievement I went out to track and realised how lovely it idled and how quickly it deteriorated under speed. A whole 3 minutes of fantastic run time, never before achieved with this engine. but for 3 minutes.
I assume the gap between the liner and block created by the pinch allows for room to expand. Combustion then escapes down the sides of the piston and the engines gets even hotter and it snowballs and stalls. Maybe at this point it's time to UP the oil content. Old schoolers told me to run rich and let carbon deposits build up to create a better seal. I only clean with solvent (not polish) the bottom outer of the liner and ports, the top of piston, button and the block. The rest of combustion chamber components I leave coated in carbon residue.
Having said all this, I dont think the alloys in those engines were anything close to those used in Italians engines. Ive very much considered revisiting this but would also want to try a simple electroplating technique to apply more metal to the outside of the sleeve to keep the titght fit.
Atm, I use an OS TG less than 1hp "Gas Touring club class here" and Two GRP Tuned one old and low on compression and one relatively new race engine. There was an article I read from one of the buggy runners and engine maintenance procedures. Warming engine up before starts, afterrun after use, cleaning techniques, bearing maintenance, run in methods, etc etc etc All the things to do at the end of a busy race meeting.
My club GRP had a bad plug that frosted after it created a stalactite/stalagmite of platinum from the dropped plug coil and a very pitted and frosted chamber. Cleaned it up, little compression left yet still runs merrily.. so LUCK does play a part.
Hi Blis,
Thanks for your advise... It sure sounds like a lot time has to be put into it. I may concentrate on other stuff instead... For now I am happy to have a practice engine and I will now turn my head to one of those RB engines. I cannot decide between the RB T9 RC or the Murnan Modified version...
Any thoughts on either engine??
08-09-2009, 08:42 PM
#626
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: (Holiday, Fl.) (CST.Allentown, Pa.)
Posts: 1,314
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
keep up the good work gtrmx 
08-09-2009, 08:42 PM
#627
Steering ackerman collars:
has anyone replaced these collars with bearings with smaller inner diamater?
part number 150407C. The size is 4 x 7 x 2.5 so im guessing the inner diameter should be 3.5mm this will get rid of the play in the ackerman post.
part number 150407C. The size is 4 x 7 x 2.5 so im guessing the inner diameter should be 3.5mm this will get rid of the play in the ackerman post.
08-10-2009, 11:29 AM
#628
08-10-2009, 05:21 PM
#630
Thank you for the information
Best regards
www.machinaria.com