captian

its all good we figured it out

captian

dont think its a need for it

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

If you are going to do it just use the long bodies. But like someone posted already, I don't think there's a need for the change. I did that on my 720 but haven't thought about it for the 733.

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

Smart guys! I figured you would

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Removing the 1st gear pinion worked perfect. Thanks DS!!!!


Pass you soon...

NiTrO BoOsTeR

iTrader: (7)

hey guys, im about to have my first go at the Qld titles here in Australia and i was wondering how much fuel does the standard 733 tank hold without any inserts

thanks guys.

mitch

Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

Put the inserts in just in case I was over after a run by 3cc

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

77.5 cc without inserts.

NiTrO BoOsTeR

iTrader: (7)

thanks guys

captian

[QUOTE=quietstorm76;7780285]Smart guys! I figured you would[/QUOTE
lol

Serpent fan

Hi All,

I cannot get my clutch to engage properly, I've tried everything. I got the kit with the fly weights with the hole in the wrong end. I tried drilling holes and putting weights in the other end, without luck. I tried filing the other face to 45 deg, and put the fly weights the "right way" in (so they were trailing), it still did not engage. Now I tried putting them in between the pins, still don't work

The clutch gap is approx 0.2 - 0.3 mm, end play about 0.1, and the spring retainer is backed off as far up as it can go, without protruding the threads on the center sleeve.

What can be wrong? I am still running in the engine, so I don't want to over rev it. Do I have to accelerate quickly for the clutch to engage? Or, to ask the same question a little bit different; If I don't accelerate quickly, will the clutch only slip and partially engage? Or should it still engage fully even though I accelerate slowly? (I thought that given enough rpm, the clutch would engage no matter what...)

Please help me, my car has just been sitting on my desk for 4 weeks now, I still haven't been able to drive it because of the clutch issue

gfilos

i think the flyweights cause that, cant you get new ones? with a gap of
0.2-0.3mm and spring as soft as it can, i cant see another reason for the
clutch not engaging. Unless the engine is way too rich.

dj apolaro

I think you are saying it will not engage properly. If that is the case, maybe it is the entire clutch set up is off. It should be engaging immediately and this is causing it to seem bad. Make a gap of .7, go to .2 of end play and tighten the spring with .8 of thread showing. Use this as a starting point and it should work pretty good. The hole can be either way on the flyweights for this clutch and it should work fine. They just all need to be the same of course. If you are still running in the engine just use .4 of threads and then tighten it back up when the motor is ready.

DJ Apolaro

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

DJ is right, but i would like to add that if the spring nut is not tightened down far enough; it'll be hitting onto the clutch bell. you'll notice it when you put on the bell without the inner bearing (when you're setting the gap).

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Serpent Fan, you mentioned that you are still "running in" your engine correct? if that is true then yes no matter what you do it will not engage if the engine is running too "RICH" you have to lean it out a little bit until the engine produces enough RPM in order for the clutch to engage, just remember that the flyweights are centrifugal and needs a certain RPM to have the momentum to swing out and push the clutch shoe against the clutch bell. hope this helps.