Serpent 733 1/10 200mm touring
09-01-2009, 01:17 PM
#1036
The centax I is not easy in setting the gap, use the centax II instead, and screw the pinion for the 1st gear "wrong" on the clutch bell, this way it will align with the spurgears....
beter it is even to get the vector 2nd gear axle to suite the newer gearbox.... (if you can still get it)
beter it is even to get the vector 2nd gear axle to suite the newer gearbox.... (if you can still get it)
09-01-2009, 04:02 PM
#1037
The centax I is not easy in setting the gap, use the centax II instead, and screw the pinion for the 1st gear "wrong" on the clutch bell, this way it will align with the spurgears....
beter it is even to get the vector 2nd gear axle to suite the newer gearbox.... (if you can still get it)
beter it is even to get the vector 2nd gear axle to suite the newer gearbox.... (if you can still get it)
What I do is put the gap with enough amount of shims up to a point where you have zero gap, there must be some round movement but not tide that it will not turn, but zero gap, then you take all the shims you had to install, measure it and take off the amount of shims equal to gap you want to have; Example if you have install 5.5mm of shims and you want to have 4.0 mm Gap, then you take 4.0mm, install the amount of shims left 1.5mm and you will have 4.0mm of gap.
I have been doing this method for years and it ha s worked for me, don t need expensive tolls.
Hope it will work.
RCPANAMA
09-01-2009, 06:46 PM
#1040
09-02-2009, 01:08 AM
#1041
I don't understand, but 1 thing, with the centax 1 you will have to set the gap with shims BEHIND the flywheel, so in front of the engine bearing. that's why you can better put the centax II on it....
09-02-2009, 02:29 AM
#1042
2nd gearing
the tallest 2nd gearing is only 4.69? with 23pinion and 54spur...
won't it be alittle 'short' for picco engines in a large track?
won't it be alittle 'short' for picco engines in a large track?
09-02-2009, 03:46 AM
#1043
You can already notice a big difference if you change from a 3 to 4mm aluminium chassis.
If you want some grip with this modded chassis you will need a extremely soft suspension to give the car time to settle.
When you are able to get some grip out if it, it will be a very twitchy car because of the stiff chassis and soft suspension.
A very stiff chassis simply doesn't work in rc like it does in 1:1 motorsports, because we don't have the sophisticated dampers to control the suspension with. So we need a extra damper in the form of the chassis. And we don't have nearly the amount of aero which requires a stiff chassis to be beneficial.
09-02-2009, 05:44 AM
#1045
09-02-2009, 05:47 AM
#1046
A friend of Main, teach a simple method on how to set the Gap, it has work for me since I learn, I will try to explain it with my English.
What I do is put the gap with enough amount of shims up to a point where you have zero gap, there must be some round movement but not tide that it will not turn, but zero gap, then you take all the shims you had to install, measure it and take off the amount of shims equal to gap you want to have; Example if you have install 5.5mm of shims and you want to have 4.0 mm Gap, then you take 4.0mm, install the amount of shims left 1.5mm and you will have 4.0mm of gap.
I have been doing this method for years and it ha s worked for me, don t need expensive tolls.
Hope it will work.
RCPANAMA
What I do is put the gap with enough amount of shims up to a point where you have zero gap, there must be some round movement but not tide that it will not turn, but zero gap, then you take all the shims you had to install, measure it and take off the amount of shims equal to gap you want to have; Example if you have install 5.5mm of shims and you want to have 4.0 mm Gap, then you take 4.0mm, install the amount of shims left 1.5mm and you will have 4.0mm of gap.
I have been doing this method for years and it ha s worked for me, don t need expensive tolls.
Hope it will work.
RCPANAMA
Nice tip!!
09-02-2009, 09:01 AM
#1047
Tech Regular
The performance will go down dramatic. The car is way too stiff with all that carbon.
You can already notice a big difference if you change from a 3 to 4mm aluminium chassis.
If you want some grip with this modded chassis you will need a extremely soft suspension to give the car time to settle.
When you are able to get some grip out if it, it will be a very twitchy car because of the stiff chassis and soft suspension.
A very stiff chassis simply doesn't work in rc like it does in 1:1 motorsports, because we don't have the sophisticated dampers to control the suspension with. So we need a extra damper in the form of the chassis. And we don't have nearly the amount of aero which requires a stiff chassis to be beneficial.
You can already notice a big difference if you change from a 3 to 4mm aluminium chassis.
If you want some grip with this modded chassis you will need a extremely soft suspension to give the car time to settle.
When you are able to get some grip out if it, it will be a very twitchy car because of the stiff chassis and soft suspension.
A very stiff chassis simply doesn't work in rc like it does in 1:1 motorsports, because we don't have the sophisticated dampers to control the suspension with. So we need a extra damper in the form of the chassis. And we don't have nearly the amount of aero which requires a stiff chassis to be beneficial.
I really am more woried about heat then chassis stiffness
09-02-2009, 06:52 PM
#1048
09-02-2009, 09:52 PM
#1049
when you run a softer front the tire wear is more even through your run. It also gives more steering. Therefore when you run a harder tire in the front the steering is less and the rear tires wear faster. This creates more rear tire wear and gives the car front whell drive.
Hope this helps.
DJ Apolaro
Hope this helps.
DJ Apolaro
Don't you mean rear wheel drive? If the tire is softer in the rear?
09-02-2009, 11:41 PM
#1050
bigger front tire diameter than rear results in front wheel drive.