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Old 09-01-2009, 02:17 PM   #1036
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The centax I is not easy in setting the gap, use the centax II instead, and screw the pinion for the 1st gear "wrong" on the clutch bell, this way it will align with the spurgears....

beter it is even to get the vector 2nd gear axle to suite the newer gearbox.... (if you can still get it)
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:02 PM   #1037
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
The centax I is not easy in setting the gap, use the centax II instead, and screw the pinion for the 1st gear "wrong" on the clutch bell, this way it will align with the spurgears....

beter it is even to get the vector 2nd gear axle to suite the newer gearbox.... (if you can still get it)
A friend of Main, teach a simple method on how to set the Gap, it has work for me since I learn, I will try to explain it with my English.
What I do is put the gap with enough amount of shims up to a point where you have zero gap, there must be some round movement but not tide that it will not turn, but zero gap, then you take all the shims you had to install, measure it and take off the amount of shims equal to gap you want to have; Example if you have install 5.5mm of shims and you want to have 4.0 mm Gap, then you take 4.0mm, install the amount of shims left 1.5mm and you will have 4.0mm of gap.
I have been doing this method for years and it ha s worked for me, don t need expensive tolls.
Hope it will work.

RCPANAMA
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Old 09-01-2009, 05:07 PM   #1038
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that's a good one!!! Panama

tengo unas Amigas paisanas tuyas como les encanta la parranda...
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:37 PM   #1039
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guys just wondering ihave the orion .12 crf engine, i cant find the pipe for it anywhere no one has it in stock, anyone know where i can get one , or a good pipe for that motor, any suggestions
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:46 PM   #1040
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that's a good one!!! Panama

tengo unas Amigas paisanas tuyas como les encanta la parranda...
Como buenos caribenos, la parranda es parte del calor y la humedad de este país
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Old 09-02-2009, 02:08 AM   #1041
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Originally Posted by rcpanama View Post
[SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]A friend of Main, teach a simple method on how to set the Gap, it has work for me since I learn, I will try to explain it with my English.
I don't understand, but 1 thing, with the centax 1 you will have to set the gap with shims BEHIND the flywheel, so in front of the engine bearing. that's why you can better put the centax II on it....
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:29 AM   #1042
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Default 2nd gearing

the tallest 2nd gearing is only 4.69? with 23pinion and 54spur...
won't it be alittle 'short' for picco engines in a large track?
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:46 AM   #1043
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Originally Posted by M7H View Post
Always nice to see the mods you make on cars, but do they give a performance advantage?, and in this particular case, how about the heat generated by the engine, because fibre carbon or aluminium... that's quite a difference.....
The performance will go down dramatic. The car is way too stiff with all that carbon.
You can already notice a big difference if you change from a 3 to 4mm aluminium chassis.

If you want some grip with this modded chassis you will need a extremely soft suspension to give the car time to settle.
When you are able to get some grip out if it, it will be a very twitchy car because of the stiff chassis and soft suspension.

A very stiff chassis simply doesn't work in rc like it does in 1:1 motorsports, because we don't have the sophisticated dampers to control the suspension with. So we need a extra damper in the form of the chassis. And we don't have nearly the amount of aero which requires a stiff chassis to be beneficial.
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:54 AM   #1044
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Originally Posted by NitroWD View Post
the tallest 2nd gearing is only 4.69? with 23pinion and 54spur...
won't it be alittle 'short' for picco engines in a large track?
internal ratio has changed from 720 to 733, so it will be better anyhow. same top end, more accell.
TM did this with the ED trans.
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:44 AM   #1045
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Originally Posted by yogii View Post
I'm looking for Serpent Vector Clutch parts to match up to another car.



Try calling Cruisin with RC's in waldwick, NJ.....Ron is a big time Serpent lover, and has a ton of parts. Ask for Ron, and tell him fastharry told you to call...

201 445 8080
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:47 AM   #1046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpanama View Post
A friend of Main, teach a simple method on how to set the Gap, it has work for me since I learn, I will try to explain it with my English.
What I do is put the gap with enough amount of shims up to a point where you have zero gap, there must be some round movement but not tide that it will not turn, but zero gap, then you take all the shims you had to install, measure it and take off the amount of shims equal to gap you want to have; Example if you have install 5.5mm of shims and you want to have 4.0 mm Gap, then you take 4.0mm, install the amount of shims left 1.5mm and you will have 4.0mm of gap.
I have been doing this method for years and it ha s worked for me, don t need expensive tolls.
Hope it will work.

RCPANAMA



Nice tip!!
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:01 AM   #1047
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
The performance will go down dramatic. The car is way too stiff with all that carbon.
You can already notice a big difference if you change from a 3 to 4mm aluminium chassis.

If you want some grip with this modded chassis you will need a extremely soft suspension to give the car time to settle.
When you are able to get some grip out if it, it will be a very twitchy car because of the stiff chassis and soft suspension.

A very stiff chassis simply doesn't work in rc like it does in 1:1 motorsports, because we don't have the sophisticated dampers to control the suspension with. So we need a extra damper in the form of the chassis. And we don't have nearly the amount of aero which requires a stiff chassis to be beneficial.
He could simply remove the side-carbon, that would fix things i guess....

I really am more woried about heat then chassis stiffness
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:52 PM   #1048
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
internal ratio has changed from 720 to 733, so it will be better anyhow. same top end, more accell.
TM did this with the ED trans.
Ya I'm driving the TM right now. TM ed trans got a wide range of ratios to use.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:52 PM   #1049
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Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
when you run a softer front the tire wear is more even through your run. It also gives more steering. Therefore when you run a harder tire in the front the steering is less and the rear tires wear faster. This creates more rear tire wear and gives the car front whell drive.

Hope this helps.

DJ Apolaro
Huh??? Don't you mean rear wheel drive? If the tire is softer in the rear?
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:41 AM   #1050
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Huh??? Don't you mean rear wheel drive? If the tire is softer in the rear?
i believe he means if you use softer rear tire, it will wear out faster resulting in eventually smaller rear tires than front later in your run...

bigger front tire diameter than rear results in front wheel drive.
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