jasoncsc

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jasoncsc

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jasoncsc

The above are 2 pages that I scan from my English setup sheet. Hopefully it helps.

I also use a OS 21 VZR II. It was a gift from my Japanese friend. He said its modified by his friend in OS factory. At its peak, its near to a Max 21 ABC on the straight. However, the down side is that after about 50 tanks its gradually loosing power, so I have to send it back to my friend in Japan to have it worked at again....

Now I use my Max regularly, and keep the OS as a backup. However, whenever I hear someone at the track says "OS engine is not fast enough" I would put on the OS and rip the track with it....Usually people would watch with their jaws dropped.... Shops even told me their sales of OS VZR II increased!

Pro Models

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jasoncsc

Yes I would love to attach a bigger photo, but the file limit prohibits this.....Will send to your email instead later.

dougday

Thanks for the response Jasoncsc.

When I set the elevated camber at .5 deg front and 1deg rear, I end up with 1.5deg front and 3deg rear with the car sitting on the board.

Why use elevated camber and not the regular way?

jkestler

ME TOO!
[email protected]
Thanks

NitroHead

Me four!

[email protected]

Leo V.

iTrader: (4)

It would be greatly appreciated if you could send me the set up sheet at [email protected]. The car is excellent with the set up I have, but maybe it could get better. thanks in advance

jkestler

I don't have the setup explaination in english yet but this seems strange. When we are talking elevated is it up off the ground or the suspension in full bump (the wheel up off the ground). The camber on the setup sheets is the same on the 0g and the 1G. if you raise the chassis off the ground and let the suspension hang you won't get similar readings. If you push your chassis to the ground your readings of camber at the wheel will be more similar to the free state. SO, when we say "0g is the reading off the ground" do they mean wheel in full bump or in full droop? My vote is the wheel off the ground.
Having a similar reading from the wheel on the ground and the wheel in full bump would be a good thing...It shows that you have all the suspension pivot points in the right place to keep the camber constant as the wheel goes up. Droop (the wheel hanging down with the spring off it's perch) is not as important because your wheel rarely travels this far down in racing curcumstances.

Just for the record, I'm setting my front and back at 1deg. (wheels on the ground) and getting even tire temps and wear.

jasoncsc

jkestler, Bocal, Pro Models & NitroHead: I've sent emails to your accounts with the scanned files at 1:1 scale. Enjoy!

jkestler: I received a bounced back message from your server saying that the mail is "suspected spam blah blah blah".... Let me know if you could not receive it.

manokgt4

Jason,

Can you please send me one too?

[email protected]

Thanks in Advance.

speedy100

Jason,

pls send me a copy as well [email protected]

InitialD

Ummm, sorry to butt in but I think the elevated camber thingy is already obselete. An easier way is to set droop settings on the car first, then ride height from the intended wheels you're going to be using and then put them on Hudy gauges to set camber and toe in.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=4937&ccid=8

Pro Models

HI Jason,

Received your mail with the scan....great !!!!!

Thanks