![]() |
It probably wont need much break in because they lapped the cylinder and piston already.
|
Originally posted by CraigH It probably wont need much break in because they lapped the cylinder and piston already. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D, a friday pic for you!
1 Attachment(s)
Originally posted by markp27 Bearings front and back are ceramic :D and the crankshaft is at least partially coated - I can't remember now if it was fully coated or not. Polish my balls :eek: :lol: http://www.jpracing.com/fr/catalogue...aft_FX12S3.jpg Also we have the old sleeve from old batch :cry: , this is the new one: |
Originally posted by markp27 I was starting to get this impression, too :D |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D, a friday pic for you!
Originally posted by Schrijver99 Only the big-end side of the shaft is coated, not the shaft/inlet side http://www.jpracing.com/fr/catalogue...aft_FX12S3.jpg Also we have the old sleeve from old batch :cry: , this is the new one: Old sleave :cry: I'll have to buy another JP, then ;) |
Originally posted by Schrijver99 But you do need to run it in! |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D, a friday pic for you!
Originally posted by Schrijver99 Also we have the old sleeve from old batch :cry: , this is the new one: Look at the pics here. See any similarities with the new NSR sleeve?:sneaky: |
What's the best way to remove the conrod from the crankshaft - It takes me ages to get the conrod removed as it keeps getting stuck on the last bit of the crankshaft's conrod pin :( Any tips would be appreciated :D
|
Originally posted by Schrijver99 But you do need to run it in! |
Originally posted by markp27 What's the best way to remove the conrod from the crankshaft - It takes me ages to get the conrod removed as it keeps getting stuck on the last bit of the crankshaft's conrod pin :( Any tips would be appreciated :D |
Originally posted by InitialD Not if you have the "Moteur rode" sticker version on the box.:sneaky: That one is broken in in the factory already. I was looking high-and-low for this, but it looks like mine needs running in. |
Re-post
Initial D,
I'm not sure if you seen my post a couple pages back, but here it is again. D, I didn't compare the KO 2343 and 2344 for myself. I asked Josh Cyrul about it, and this is what he said. PSI Racing - I prefer the higher torque in my gas cars. I used to always choose the speed for the steering but after I tested a few different servos I then opted for the high torque as I liked the feel - less twitchy off center but it did seem to have more steering in the higher speed (higher load) corners. I'm not sure what Ralph uses... |
Originally posted by markp27 You language skills are coming to the fore again, D ;) :lol: |
Originally posted by markp27 What's the best way to remove the conrod from the crankshaft - It takes me ages to get the conrod removed as it keeps getting stuck on the last bit of the crankshaft's conrod pin :( Any tips would be appreciated :D If it still stuck.. good, dont remove it. Mostly a "new" engine is difficult to pull out the engine. Should be easier after completely broken in. If still hard to do, (if it was my engine) I prefer to let it there. Just take up the sleeve and spray the piston and crankshaft with CRC(contact cleaner) or Permatex(carb/choke cleaner). Do not use your kungfu for this part. |
Re: Re-post
Originally posted by PSI Racing I'm not sure if you seen my post a couple pages back, but here it is again. |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:27 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.